E-locker install issue (1 Viewer)

[jgranthevagrant]

Hello Mud,

I am doing an e-locker install on a 1990 4x4 pickup. Has mostly gone according to plan, until a few minutes ago. Re-installing the axle shafts into the housing, passenger side goes in perfectly. Driver's side bottoms out at the diff end, about 3/16" to 1/4" short between the bearing retainer and the outer end of the axle housing. So shaft is hitting something or shaft is too long? Any body else run into an issue like this? Solution is ? Cut 1/4 off the spline end? Find a different length shaft? I have seen nothing about this in other threads, but I recall something about splined ends not going into the diff far enough. Diff is out of a 1998 Limited 4Runner, if that helps.

 

[pappy]

Gosh, it's been awhile since I installed one. As I recall, the locker needs to be in the locked position or something moves and the shafts won't go in. I think when I had this happen I was able to stick something in there to move it where it needs to be. I want to say I used a broom stick, and I might have done it from the opposite side.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Pretty sure it is in the locked position, but will check. Hard to tell with the actuator all nicely bolted on.

 

[gnob]

Should go in. Locked or unlocked. Are you certain that the splines are not dinged or dirty?
Have you tried loading them opposite?

I had a small issue loading an rcv axle into the actuator side of mine but it turned out to be dirty or something. Ive had it in and out and only fought it that first time.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Pretty sure it is in the locked position, but will check. Hard to tell with the actuator all nicely bolted on.

Wired up the ecu and switch to the actuator, cycled it about 6 times, moved the pinion a bit, and axle went in. Not sure what was going on in there, but axles are in and locker locks and unlocks. All good. Next week or weekend, I will splice and extend the harness to the switch and ecu in the cab.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

I definitely made sure splines were clean and intact. Working outside and it's cold, so trying to do it right the first time. I will pull the axles when it's a bit warmer out in the spring, when I redo the bearings and backing plates. Looks like I need a press to do both of those.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

On a related note, does anybody try to seal up the gaps around the actuator? There are several spots that look like they would collect salt, mud, water, etc around the actuator.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Worked a bit more on my E-locker install tonight while it is not raining. Wondering who has installed them in 1989-94 pickups and what routing works best for the wiring? I have a new harness for the 24" or so at the locker end. It has a pressed metal part that probably bolts nicely onto a '97 to '02 4 Runner, but I have no obvious spot under the pickup bed. Trying to avoid the exhaust and then enter the cab at the back of the driver's side. Not sure where I will run the breather hose either, but that is less crucial.

 

[LINUS]

If you hadn’t seen the factory route in a 80, they pull the harness down to the axle housing from the DR corner & bring it forward & to the 3rd member.

The exhaust is all over on the PS for the later 1FZ’s /‘95-97

Maybe try sliding the small metal tab to bolt to the e-brake cable tab on the housing - that’s the 80 series method from recall.

 

[gnob]

I ran my wires straight up from the diff to the crossmember there. Then fastened to the frame.
Another option is to run the wires over to the leaf and up. (how my front is)

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Exhaust is on the driver's side. I am leaning towards attaching to an e-cable bracket and then up to the cross member, then along the frame rail. Just won't look too clean, and I'm pretty good at driving through brush, trees, snow, etc, which damages exposed cable and wire. I once tore a speedo cable right off in snow. I would like to not repeat that stunt with my new harness and actuator.

 

[gnob]

Imo its a bit of a trade off either way.
In the rear i chose up, away from the leaf. Its relatively well protected there via the diff, dl and tank.
Up front i was trying to use the path of least movement, while trying to negate potential damage.

Buy or build a motor guard.

 

[LINUS]

Good point @gnob -since the back axle on a 80 is a 4-link / sheds sticks & roots better than leaf sprung setups.