- Thread starter
- #141
I’ll have my Dissent bumper on in a few weeks, still waiting on my winch and then some free time to do the install.
E&E Off-Road 200 Series Skid Plate System
- Thread starter Tex68w
- Start date
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I’ll have my Dissent bumper on in a few weeks, still waiting on my winch and then some free time to do the install.
Bad ass can't wait to see it. I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going with too for my bumper.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
teejnut
SILVER Star
No, I haven't tried to get it to fit. Partly been lazy and partly don't want to butcher up the E&E skids
. I believe I would have to cut the edge of the front skid that folds up. Also, I'm worried about fitment if I put the filler plate in as well.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Got the last part in.
bloc
SILVER Star
Is it possible to leave the stock transfer guard in place with your transfer skid?
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I don't think so, I can check. What is your concern?
- Thread starter
- #148
I can't wait to get this and complete the system.
bloc
SILVER Star
An unlucky rock making it through the outer plate and cracking the relatively brittle transfer case housing. If the stock protection can remain, might as well leave it there for incrementally better protection.
- Thread starter
- #150
Well leave it up to @turbo8 aka E&E Off-Road to come up with another beautiful piece with this final edition to his 200 Series Aluminum Skid Plate System, the transfer-case skid and rear cat guards. I feel like this took me a little more time to install than the three front sections but it's definitely built strong and pulls the entire system together nicely. You will need a 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm hex wrench and a 12mm and 14mm socket wrench for the different hardware to be removed/installed.
Install directions: https://d469f7e0-176e-4ac4-a8de-8b5...d/d469f7_7307421106e94b11821a1c408e30865b.pdf
You will have to start by removing the some dozen or more bolts that hold the factory t-case guards on. Beware that these are on there pretty good and if removing them by hand (which I recommend since they are in an aluminum case) when they break free so do your knuckles/back of your hand right into something hard and sharp so be smart (unlike myself) and wear gloves. I replaced the hardware in all of the terminated open threads simply to close them off from silt and debris.
You will have to remove the anti-vibration weight from the rear of the t-case in order to remove one of the bolts for the factory skid plate. Be sure to replace it after removing the factory skid plate.
You will then remove the existing crossmember skid that you installed with the initial system, this gets replaced with the new brace and skid plate. I was surprised at how much sand was in mine after a short beach trip this past weekend, I guess I didn't clean thoroughly enough under there when I got back home. For the record, I have never seen this much silt/debris in the skid plates, I believe this to be because of my half-ass pressure washer job.
Next you loosely mount the subframe to the back of the crossmember. Followed by the rear cat guards to the subframe and the main brace spire.
Be sure to leave the main brace spire and the two large bolts on the crossmember somewhat loose otherwise you'll be fighting the skid plate for alignment later on. You will need to completely remove the (6) six rearmost bolts from the transmission skid plate and half way loosen the two outer middle bolts in order to make enough room for the new t-case skid plate front lip to fit under the rear of the transmission skid plate. You might need to give the brace spire and subframe a nudge or two with a soft mallet in order to get things aligned for the skid plate hardware, take your time and don't get frustrated, you will get it.
Once all of the hardware is aligned go ahead and tighten things down, but be sure to tighten the two 5mm hex head bolts that attach the base of the main spire bracket to the subframe before bolting up the skid plate. Remember to tighten things evenly in a rotation, I found working from front to back worked best. The last three bolts to tighten will be the top bolt for the main spire bracket and the two bolts at the rear of the subframe. For those two you will have to be some what of a contortionist and use a small 5mm allen key in order to have room to get in there with your hand now that everything is buttoned up. Trust me, it can be done, so long as you don't have claustrophobic hands or big old Jimmy Dean sausage mitts lol.
In the end you should have the two parts of the factory t-case skid, two bolts from those skids (that's if you replace the others in the terminated open holes on the t-case) and the original crossmember skid along with a few extra bolts left over.
This is an awesome system, whether it's just the main front/engine/transmission system or complete with the new t-case skid added on. I can't get over how amazing it all looks and how well it all fits together seamlessly to complete a true flat belly system and the best part is that it's aluminum, light weight and rust free. Most importantly though by purchasing this system you are supporting a small business and fellow member of this forum who is always quick to respond to PM's and help out in any way possible with his customers.
There's a lot of great vendors out there for these Cruisers, many of which are active here on these forums each and every week and they all make amazing products worthy of your hard earned money. That said, I couldn't think of a better skid plate system for the 200 Series and I am grateful to have it on my Cruiser protecting the important bits underneath.
Install directions: https://d469f7e0-176e-4ac4-a8de-8b5...d/d469f7_7307421106e94b11821a1c408e30865b.pdf
You will have to start by removing the some dozen or more bolts that hold the factory t-case guards on. Beware that these are on there pretty good and if removing them by hand (which I recommend since they are in an aluminum case) when they break free so do your knuckles/back of your hand right into something hard and sharp so be smart (unlike myself) and wear gloves. I replaced the hardware in all of the terminated open threads simply to close them off from silt and debris.
You will have to remove the anti-vibration weight from the rear of the t-case in order to remove one of the bolts for the factory skid plate. Be sure to replace it after removing the factory skid plate.
You will then remove the existing crossmember skid that you installed with the initial system, this gets replaced with the new brace and skid plate. I was surprised at how much sand was in mine after a short beach trip this past weekend, I guess I didn't clean thoroughly enough under there when I got back home. For the record, I have never seen this much silt/debris in the skid plates, I believe this to be because of my half-ass pressure washer job.
Next you loosely mount the subframe to the back of the crossmember. Followed by the rear cat guards to the subframe and the main brace spire.
Be sure to leave the main brace spire and the two large bolts on the crossmember somewhat loose otherwise you'll be fighting the skid plate for alignment later on. You will need to completely remove the (6) six rearmost bolts from the transmission skid plate and half way loosen the two outer middle bolts in order to make enough room for the new t-case skid plate front lip to fit under the rear of the transmission skid plate. You might need to give the brace spire and subframe a nudge or two with a soft mallet in order to get things aligned for the skid plate hardware, take your time and don't get frustrated, you will get it.
Once all of the hardware is aligned go ahead and tighten things down, but be sure to tighten the two 5mm hex head bolts that attach the base of the main spire bracket to the subframe before bolting up the skid plate. Remember to tighten things evenly in a rotation, I found working from front to back worked best. The last three bolts to tighten will be the top bolt for the main spire bracket and the two bolts at the rear of the subframe. For those two you will have to be some what of a contortionist and use a small 5mm allen key in order to have room to get in there with your hand now that everything is buttoned up. Trust me, it can be done, so long as you don't have claustrophobic hands or big old Jimmy Dean sausage mitts lol.
In the end you should have the two parts of the factory t-case skid, two bolts from those skids (that's if you replace the others in the terminated open holes on the t-case) and the original crossmember skid along with a few extra bolts left over.
This is an awesome system, whether it's just the main front/engine/transmission system or complete with the new t-case skid added on. I can't get over how amazing it all looks and how well it all fits together seamlessly to complete a true flat belly system and the best part is that it's aluminum, light weight and rust free. Most importantly though by purchasing this system you are supporting a small business and fellow member of this forum who is always quick to respond to PM's and help out in any way possible with his customers.
There's a lot of great vendors out there for these Cruisers, many of which are active here on these forums each and every week and they all make amazing products worthy of your hard earned money. That said, I couldn't think of a better skid plate system for the 200 Series and I am grateful to have it on my Cruiser protecting the important bits underneath.
Last edited:
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Thanks @Tex68w for the awesome write up and compliments.Well leave it up to @turbo8 aka E&E Off-Road to come up with another beautiful piece with this final edition to his 200 Series Aluminum Skid Plate System, the transfer-case skid and rear cat guards. I feel like this took me a little more time to install than the three front sections but it's definitely built strong and pulls the entire system together nicely. You will need a 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm hex wrench and a 12mm and 14mm socket wrench for the different hardware to be removed/installed.
Install directions: https://d469f7e0-176e-4ac4-a8de-8b5...d/d469f7_7307421106e94b11821a1c408e30865b.pdf
You will have to start by removing the some dozen or more bolts that hold the factory t-case guards on. Beware that these are on there pretty good and if removing them by hand (which I recommend since they are in an aluminum case) when they break free so do your knuckles/back of your hand right into something hard and sharp so be smart (unlike myself) and wear gloves. I replaced the hardware in all of the terminated open threads simply to close them off from silt and debris.
You will have to remove the anti-vibration weight from the rear of the t-case in order to remove one of the bolts for the factory skid plate. Be sure to replace it after removing the factory skid plate.
You will then remove the existing crossmember skid that you installed with the initial system, this gets replaced with the new brace and skid plate. I was surprised at how much sand was in mine after a short beach trip this past weekend, I guess I didn't clean thoroughly enough under there when I got back home. For the record, I have never seen this much silt/debris in the skid plates, I believe this to be because of my half-ass pressure washer job.
Next you loosely mount the subframe to the back of the crossmember. Followed by the rear cat guards to the subframe and the main brace spire.
Be sure to leave the main brace spire and the two large bolts on the crossmember somewhat loose otherwise you'll be fighting the skid plate for alignment later on. You will need to completely remove the (6) six rearmost bolts from the transmission skid plate and half way loosen the two outer middle bolts in order to make enough room for the new t-case skid plate front lip to fit under the rear of the transmission skid plate. You might need to give the brace spire and subframe a nudge or two with a soft mallet in order to get things aligned for the skid plate hardware, take your time and don't get frustrated, you will get it.
Once all of the hardware is aligned go ahead and tighten things down, but be sure to tighten the two 5mm hex head bolts that attach the base of the main spire bracket to the subframe before bolting up the skid plate. Remember to tighten things evenly in a rotation, I found working from front to back worked best. The last three bolts to tighten will be the top bolt for the main spire bracket and the two bolts at the rear of the subframe. For those two you will have to be some what of a contortionist and use a small 5mm allen key in order to have room to get in there with your hand now that everything is buttoned up. Trust me, it can be done, so long as you don't have claustrophobic hands or big old Jimmy Dean sausage mitts lol.
In the end you should have the two parts of the factory t-case skid, two bolts from those skids (that's if you replace the others in the terminated open holes on the t-case) and the original crossmember skid along with a few extra bolts left over.
This is an awesome system, whether it's just the main front/engine/transmission system or complete with the new t-case skid added on. I can't get over how amazing it all looks and how well it all fits together seamlessly to complete a true flat belly system and the best part is that it's aluminum, light weight and rust free. Most importantly though by purchasing this system you are supporting a small business and fellow member of this forum who is always quick to respond to PM's and help out in any way possible with his customers.
There's a lot of great vendors out there for these Cruisers, many of which are active here on these forums each and every week and they all make amazing products worthy of your hard earned money. That said, I couldn't think of a better skid plate system for the 200 Series and I am grateful to have it on my Cruiser protecting the important bits underneath.
To help build up of mud\dirt. I thought about adding drain holes but decided, if you want holes you can add them. Since the skids are aluminum it is really easy to drill through.
I really appreciate the support!
- Thread starter
- #154
They are a deterrent, with enough time and determination by a thief they can still be ripped off. They will have to cut through the plates first to get at the cats though and with their typical smash and grab quick approach to how they typically remove them I'd be willing to wager that the deterrent is enough to make them move on to another target nine times out of ten.
The sawzall's used to cut the cats off make an awful lot of loud noise and that's why they have to work quickly before being spotted, I doubt the average cat thief is going to put in the extra effort in the visible public to defeat a second layer. That said, if in a quiet area, away from the masses and prying eyes they might still be willing to put in that extra effort and then it won't matter, it'll just take them longer. But the average thief is lazy and they look for a quick opportunity and they want to limit their exposure so this helps in that regard.
2HundyJTex
SILVER Star
Helluva write up @Tex68w! Nice work. Thanks!!Well leave it up to @turbo8 aka E&E Off-Road to come up with another beautiful piece with this final edition to his 200 Series Aluminum Skid Plate System, the transfer-case skid and rear cat guards. I feel like this took me a little more time to install than the three front sections but it's definitely built strong and pulls the entire system together nicely. You will need a 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm hex wrench and a 12mm and 14mm socket wrench for the different hardware to be removed/installed.
Install directions: https://d469f7e0-176e-4ac4-a8de-8b5...d/d469f7_7307421106e94b11821a1c408e30865b.pdf
You will have to start by removing the some dozen or more bolts that hold the factory t-case guards on. Beware that these are on there pretty good and if removing them by hand (which I recommend since they are in an aluminum case) when they break free so do your knuckles/back of your hand right into something hard and sharp so be smart (unlike myself) and wear gloves. I replaced the hardware in all of the terminated open threads simply to close them off from silt and debris.
You will have to remove the anti-vibration weight from the rear of the t-case in order to remove one of the bolts for the factory skid plate. Be sure to replace it after removing the factory skid plate.
You will then remove the existing crossmember skid that you installed with the initial system, this gets replaced with the new brace and skid plate. I was surprised at how much sand was in mine after a short beach trip this past weekend, I guess I didn't clean thoroughly enough under there when I got back home. For the record, I have never seen this much silt/debris in the skid plates, I believe this to be because of my half-ass pressure washer job.
Next you loosely mount the subframe to the back of the crossmember. Followed by the rear cat guards to the subframe and the main brace spire.
Be sure to leave the main brace spire and the two large bolts on the crossmember somewhat loose otherwise you'll be fighting the skid plate for alignment later on. You will need to completely remove the (6) six rearmost bolts from the transmission skid plate and half way loosen the two outer middle bolts in order to make enough room for the new t-case skid plate front lip to fit under the rear of the transmission skid plate. You might need to give the brace spire and subframe a nudge or two with a soft mallet in order to get things aligned for the skid plate hardware, take your time and don't get frustrated, you will get it.
Once all of the hardware is aligned go ahead and tighten things down, but be sure to tighten the two 5mm hex head bolts that attach the base of the main spire bracket to the subframe before bolting up the skid plate. Remember to tighten things evenly in a rotation, I found working from front to back worked best. The last three bolts to tighten will be the top bolt for the main spire bracket and the two bolts at the rear of the subframe. For those two you will have to be some what of a contortionist and use a small 5mm allen key in order to have room to get in there with your hand now that everything is buttoned up. Trust me, it can be done, so long as you don't have claustrophobic hands or big old Jimmy Dean sausage mitts lol.
In the end you should have the two parts of the factory t-case skid, two bolts from those skids (that's if you replace the others in the terminated open holes on the t-case) and the original crossmember skid along with a few extra bolts left over.
This is an awesome system, whether it's just the main front/engine/transmission system or complete with the new t-case skid added on. I can't get over how amazing it all looks and how well it all fits together seamlessly to complete a true flat belly system and the best part is that it's aluminum, light weight and rust free. Most importantly though by purchasing this system you are supporting a small business and fellow member of this forum who is always quick to respond to PM's and help out in any way possible with his customers.
There's a lot of great vendors out there for these Cruisers, many of which are active here on these forums each and every week and they all make amazing products worthy of your hard earned money. That said, I couldn't think of a better skid plate system for the 200 Series and I am grateful to have it on my Cruiser protecting the important bits underneath.
(jk)
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Since you will be one of the first to install the complete system, I recommend installing the transfercase skid stuff first and working your way forward.
- Thread starter
- #158
If I were home I'd gladly lend a hand.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Good to know! I’ll be posting pics on Sunday!That goes for you too @chriscosta416
