e-brake adjustments (1 Viewer)

[Rusty Marlin]

I followed the FSM to the T and on the right side the bell crank adjustment stud is now out of further adjustment, its been run in as far as possible.
(part circled in red for those that have never fooled with their e-brakes)
BTW, Not my pic, stole it off the interwebs, might not even be off an 80 sereies, it just showed the "correct enough" parts for reference.

There is plenty of life left on the e-brake pads and hub.
So the next time it needs adjustment, what do I do?
Guess I could bend the arm in toward the dust shield....

 

[bigredmachine]

you should be using the adjuster wheel to adjust the parking brake. easiest thing to do is using a flat heead screw driver adjust the shoes out till they contact the rotor then back it off a little bit and the parking brake is adjusted

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Yup did that, followed the FSM to the letter.
Synopsis:
From the outside of drum/disk rear brake, run out adjuster wheel until it doesn't move, back off 8 teeth.
On the backside, remove the bell crank springs, by hand rotate bell crank till it stops, run in adjuster bolt until it touches dust shield and back off one turn. lock in location with nut. Reattach springs.
Repeat procedure on other side.
In cab, pull handle up with 44# force and count clicks. 7-9 required. (pull is based on memory, FMS in garage),
Take play out of cable with adjuster in handle until 7-9 clicks at 44# pull achieved.

So I did all that, and the right side bell crank adjuster is out of adjustment travel. So now what?

My thoughts are this:
1) the internals are worn and next time I make this adjustment I'll be changing the shoes and the new drum pads will require a reset of the bell crank adjuster bolt back to nominal.
2) May require changing the bell crank assembly too depending on if pivot pins are also worn and contributing to issue.

 

[jonheld]

It sounds like your cable is too tight and not allowing the bell cranks to fully retract.
FWIW, I have always had to play around with adjustments to get the handbrake to operate properly.

Loosen the cable so the bell cranks can fully retract.
Adjust the shoes.
Tighten the cable.

The "adjusters" you're referring to are simply end stops and are not critical to adjustment.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I agree withing everything you said John. The adjuster bolt is there to take out the initial play in the bell the crank before it actually does anything.
Its just a pre-travel adjustment. A refinement of the play in the system to limit hand brake handle stroke.
That's why you pull the return springs off the bell crank and hold it out by hand, so there isn't a false sense of load when taking the pre-travel out with the adjuster bolt and running it in too tight and actually engaging the e-brake during adjustment.
The cables underneath are not tight, when the springs are pulled off the bell cranks there is still travel in the bell cranks before they would make contact with the shoes in the brake drum.

 

[jonheld]

The adjuster bolt is there to take out the initial play in the bell the crank before it actually does anything.

Correct, but it's position will be determined by the adjustment of the shoes.
If the shoes are loose then the bellcranks need to pivot further to separate the shoes.
If the shoes are tight, then the bellcranks need to move very little.

Again, the end stops are not critical to proper operation.

 

[jonheld]

This is also not a great setup or design. If you can get the handbrake to hold the truck on an incline and not have the shoes in contact with the drum when the handle is released, then walk away slowly and call it done.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Correct, but it's position will be determined by the adjustment of the shoes.
If the shoes are loose then the bellcranks need to pivot further to separate the shoes.
If the shoes are tight, then the bellcranks need to move very little.

Again, the end stops are not critical to proper operation.

Ok that follows my thoughts. Basically, when I put new shoes in, the screw will need to be adjusted back to a "lower" height.

Have you ever replaced the e-brake shoes? Reading the FMS makes it sound like a royal PITA. Having to fit the shoes with a chalk test and then grind the pads to fit. Then bed the pads with multiple drags of various loading.

 

[jonheld]

Ok that follows my thoughts. Basically, when I put new shoes in, the screw will need to be adjusted back to a "lower" height.

Have you ever replaced the e-brake shoes? Reading the FMS makes it sound like a royal PITA. Having to fit the shoes with a chalk test and then grind the pads to fit. Then bed the pads with multiple drags of various loading.

You're overthinking a simple mechanical procedure.
Take the endstops out of the equation. Adjust them all the way in and stop thinking about them. Let them float. They are inconsequential to proper operation of the handbrake.

I have changed multiple sets of rear shoes. My first 80 had drum brake rears, so I am very familiar with the shoe setup. The handbrake drum setup in the FF rear axle is almost identical to the semi float rear drum brakes, with minor exceptions.
There is no chalk involved and there is no grinding involved. It is a simple replacement and simple setup.

 

[jonheld]

HINT:
You want the return springs of the bell cranks to keep the cable somewhat taught when the handle is released. If there is slack in the cable, every time you hit a bump you'll kick off your Cruise control because the handle will flop around and trigger the BRAKE light on the dash.
I've played that game too many times.

 

[Comet]

Gentleman. Pull boot cover off e brake handle. Back off double nut on cable all the way out (e brake handle rendered useless). Center of rear axle, liberal amount of pb blaster. Loosen bolt that allows brake cable bracket to move side to side. Shake the sh1t out of said bracket. Now adjust based on fsm. Jiggle the sh1t out of the the same bracket, check play. Take slack out with double nut on e brake handle.