DuraTracs getting chewed by UCA

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TheFuzz

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Whelp, looks like a 305 section width tire has made my truck a little angry. While climbing around underneath doing my yearly spray paint routine on the rusty areas, I noticed quite a few issues...the most pressing of which appears to be the groove wearing into the inside of my front tires. The outer edge of the UCA is making contact, and has worn completely through the side lugs and about 1/16th into the sidewall (maybe a little less, lighting wasn't great).

So, what to do? Wheel spacers? Moreover, is anyone else running a 305 and having similar issues, or is something amiss? Maybe the sidewall of the duratracs are causing more interference than another less aggressive tire would?

I'll try to post pics tomorrow afternoon.
 
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Your quickest and easiest solution would be wheel spacers. What UCA are you running?

When I ran 315's without the 1" wheel spacers and in mud I'd get sidewall wear too from the mud/grit packed in between the UCA and the tire...
 
Loud beat me to it. Pretty much OEM everything up front right now, suspension-wise. I'm going to climb back under later today and see if I can't clean out some built up tire material off of the UCA...but it appears that spacers are in my future.
 
which will then make you trim the fender liner, and cause dust to get into your intake more, so you'll get a snorkel. Since you have the snorkel, you'll want to put something on the other side, so you'll get a spotlight. since youve got all that stuff that catches trees, you'll get a roof rack so you can run limb risers. Since you bought the rack, you'll need a dual swingout bumper with the ladder to get to the top. And now you've got room to run a 35" spare, so you'll upgrade to 285/75/18, thus eliminating the need for spacers. Enjoy.
 
Its a slippery slope indeed! Especially with the extra tight tolerances/clearance of our IFS front end...
 
No rubbing at all with mine. Plenty of clearance with the stock UCA and BFG

Every tire is different, 305 designation doesn't mean it's identical across all brands. The Duratracs have side lugs that stick out from the sidewall much farther than KM2's.
 
which will then make you trim the fender liner, and cause dust to get into your intake more, so you'll get a snorkel. Since you have the snorkel, you'll want to put something on the other side, so you'll get a spotlight. since youve got all that stuff that catches trees, you'll get a roof rack so you can run limb risers. Since you bought the rack, you'll need a dual swingout bumper with the ladder to get to the top. And now you've got room to run a 35" spare, so you'll upgrade to 285/75/18, thus eliminating the need for spacers. Enjoy.

I'll start with LJ's 866s and go from there. These things are 5 and 10 year plan type of rigs, mine is no exception. :D

No rubbing at all with mine. Plenty of clearance with the stock UCA and BFG

Hrm. I wonder what the deal is with my rig then? The duratracs must be a fat tire compared to others of the same size, because the metal is definitely digging in. Right through the side lugs and into the sidewall. Ugh.
 
Anthony.L said:
Every tire is different, 305 designation doesn't mean it's identical across all brands. The Duratracs have side lugs that stick out from the sidewall much farther than KM2's.

Yeah, I know that.

TheFuzz said:
Hrm. I wonder what the deal is with my rig then? The duratracs must be a fat tire compared to others of the same size, because the metal is definitely digging in. Right through the side lugs and into the sidewall. Ugh.

They must be wider by a long shot. My KM2's have plenty of room. Post a picture of the tire. That's weird that you can fit a 315 AT with no spacers but your 305 DT does need a spacer. I think there is a guy ( from Atlanta but can't remember his U/N. Has a black 100) that runs DT 305. Maybe try to find out who he is and send him a PM
 
Has anyone else noticed there are two slightly different designs of 16" OEM wheels on the hub mounting? I noticed this and realised I have 4 of each design:

IMAG0560ana.jpg


The design on the right lets me run 20mm spacers, the one on the left doesn't have enough recess depth for the studs and needs thicker or no spacers. Just wondering if you happen to have the recessed style wheel would 20mm spacers cause less knock on things to solve :)
 
Has anyone else noticed there are two slightly different designs of 16" OEM wheels on the hub mounting? I noticed this and realised I have 4 of each design:

IMAG0560ana.jpg


The design on the right lets me run 20mm spacers, the one on the left doesn't have enough recess depth for the studs and needs thicker or no spacers. Just wondering if you happen to have the recessed style wheel would 20mm spacers cause less knock on things to solve :)


Interesting! I've only seen, and have, the type on the right...with the recess.

Lots of little differences on our supposed "same" rigs...
 
I'm shocked how close my 285 DTs come to the UCA. I can see why the 305s hit.
 
I'll start with LJ's 866s and go from there. These things are 5 and 10 year plan type of rigs, mine is no exception. :D



Hrm. I wonder what the deal is with my rig then? The duratracs must be a fat tire compared to others of the same size, because the metal is definitely digging in. Right through the side lugs and into the sidewall. Ugh.


I don't know about DuraTracs specifically but my MT/Rs (both versions) were definitely not wide tires for their given size. Rusty_TLC runs 285/75R16" Toyo OC MT without issue. And Toyo MTs are the widest tires I know of in a given size. And I ran 285/75R16 MT/R originally without issue.

You have stock 16" wheels correct?
 
I don't know about DuraTracs specifically but my MT/Rs (both versions) were definitely not wide tires for their given size. Rusty_TLC runs 285/75R16" Toyo OC MT without issue. And Toyo MTs are the widest tires I know of in a given size. And I ran 285/75R16 MT/R originally without issue.

You have stock 16" wheels correct?

Yep, sure do. Here are some pics I snapped earlier tonight:

Passenger side:
IMG_20111009_165532.jpg


And driver's side:
IMG_20111009_165704.jpg


As you can see by the photos, it's not the actual edge of the UCA, but the area just below that is hitting (what is the correct nomenclature? Spindle? Steering knuckle? Pardon my ignorance, still learning here :)), and it's far worse on the passenger side compared to the driver's side. The passenger side has gone completely through the side lugs and eaten into the sidewall, and appears to be positioned to dig in quite a bit more if I continue driving on it without getting some clearance. The driver's side has chewed through the side lugs and grazed the sidewall a bit, but isn't quite touching anymore from what I can tell.

Truck is out of commission for a while until I get this and the battery issue resolved, so at least I have time to get it figured out.
 
Question, to run a 1 inch spacer, do you have to cut your studs down? Odes this depend on the brand of the spacer? Like fuzz said, sorry for the ignorance, still learning her too!!
 
Question, to run a 1 inch spacer, do you have to cut your studs down? Odes this depend on the brand of the spacer? Like fuzz said, sorry for the ignorance, still learning her too!!

Not for a 1" or wider spacer adapter with OEM alloy wheels.
 
TheFuzz: That is crazy! The steering knuckle is what is rubbing. Although the outer edge of the UCA looks close too.

Are you sure your camber setting is set to spec?
 
I got an alignment earlier this year after getting the tires, but now that the lift is done I need another one. I guess that would be a good place to start before going to spacers, but I can't imagine the camber is off far enough to make that much of a mess...stranger things have happened but I'd be surprised.
 
Good thing you caught it before the tire failed!

Interesting problem. I know there is not much clearance because I have had tire chains bang on the UCA with my 285/75-16s.
 

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