DTC P033D: Knock sensor 4, ie: a mouse ate my wiring. How to fix. (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter KLF
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This is what I replaced on mine. If you are unable to source one I'd be happy to send this to you for whatever it costs now for me to get another. I immediately ordered one online as a spare after paying a hefty premium at my local lexus dealer when I needed one.
2008 Tundra 5.7L here.
The wiring harness clips behind the intake manifold are driving me absolutely crazy. I am struggling to get this released. I taped a screw to the palm side of my index finger in hopes of using this a means of disconnecting the clip. What an absolute pain the arse this wiring harness is.
Question for those who've done this, is the release clip on the underside and does it slide straight back towards the firewall?
The wiring harness clips behind the intake manifold are driving me absolutely crazy. I am struggling to get this released. I taped a screw to the palm side of my index finger in hopes of using this a means of disconnecting the clip. What an absolute pain the arse this wiring harness is.
Question for those who've done this, is the release clip on the underside and does it slide straight back towards the firewall?
Ok, figured it out. Instead of pressing towards the cable, you push away from the cable. The driver side it was easier to just remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket. Passenger side was super easy once I realized I was doing this the wrong way.
This video helped immensely @Timmy65 as it helped me visualize and realize you have to push the opposite direction.
In the event these photos help someone else.
I used some tinned copper cable wrap (Amazon) to help prevent this from happening again.
This is where the knock sensor harness connects to the connection at the rear of the engine. I found removing the bracket was easier than trying to release the clip which is on the bottom side, 10mm.
Passenger and driver wiring harness clip, again I found it easier to remove the bracket from the engine with a 10mm wrench. The passenger side I didn't need to do that.
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Interesting observation, the LC200 has the black connector ends on the passenger side, but the tundra has the black connector ends on the driver side.
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Did you happen to find an intake manifold gasket at Toyota? I am trying to sourvce parts I need locally form Toyota and they told me there ar ea couple different part numbers for the intake manifold gasket. Thanks
Yes but I don't recall the part number for it. I originally got my parts from the Lexus dealer and didn't recall an issue with multiple part numbers. If I had to do it again, I'd probably not replace it since my old ones were in great shape but I only had about 70k miles when I did it so YMMV.
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Thanks. What year is your LC200?
It's a 2015 LX570.
Oh, hey, gurrrl!
Looks like some DIY with the FSM and as little FML as possible in my future. Same codes.
Now, the real key is making the list of all the other 'while you're in there' tasks and parts, like valley leak PM, any SAIS mitigation, reroute fuel line to firewall, and so on. (suggestions welcome)
I stand by the comment I've made elsewhere on this site: MUDschool is like MEDschool, with one small difference. You read the disease literature and, throughout the semester, Dx yourself with one of each. In MUDschool, you study the lit and find you actually DO have one of each.
Thanks for all the thorough documentation.
Looks like some DIY with the FSM and as little FML as possible in my future. Same codes.
Now, the real key is making the list of all the other 'while you're in there' tasks and parts, like valley leak PM, any SAIS mitigation, reroute fuel line to firewall, and so on. (suggestions welcome)
I stand by the comment I've made elsewhere on this site: MUDschool is like MEDschool, with one small difference. You read the disease literature and, throughout the semester, Dx yourself with one of each. In MUDschool, you study the lit and find you actually DO have one of each.
Thanks for all the thorough documentation.
I just wanted to jump in here to say thank you.
We recently bought a '21 LX570 with 30k miles. At 32k miles we ran into the same issue. Being so new, and under warranty, we had the car towed to our local Lexus dealer. With only 2 months and 2k miles of ownership, we didn't think it would be a rodent issue but it was. They originally quoted us $1,200 for diagnostic & damage repair. I asked why they couldn't just replace the harness and he said the knock sensors harness is connected to the main harness that runs under the car; it would be $8k+ to pull the motor, labors & parts. I said go ahead and repair the harness. I started doing some research and found this thread & part number.
At the end of the day, they were going to charge me $1,979 for labor in repairing the chewed harness. When I arrived, I asked for pictures of the damage.
We recently bought a '21 LX570 with 30k miles. At 32k miles we ran into the same issue. Being so new, and under warranty, we had the car towed to our local Lexus dealer. With only 2 months and 2k miles of ownership, we didn't think it would be a rodent issue but it was. They originally quoted us $1,200 for diagnostic & damage repair. I asked why they couldn't just replace the harness and he said the knock sensors harness is connected to the main harness that runs under the car; it would be $8k+ to pull the motor, labors & parts. I said go ahead and repair the harness. I started doing some research and found this thread & part number.
At the end of the day, they were going to charge me $1,979 for labor in repairing the chewed harness. When I arrived, I asked for pictures of the damage.
bloc
SILVER Star
So they did use the replacement part or not?
According to the service manager, they did all of the work to REPAIR the harness - with warranty on the work - without knowing that there was a cheap & easy replacement harness for that section.
Knowing that they could have easily replaced it, they only charged me what it would have cost to replace that small harness. Most of the charges were disassembly/reassembly.
bloc
SILVER Star
Ah, makes sense. I'd personally prefer the replacement harness but the warranty is good coverage.
And for anyone else wondering, manifold removal is pretty easy when you figure out the tricks.
Intake manifold removal trick
Over the years I've seen a number of posts from people talking about difficulty getting the intake manifold off due to some harness retainers on the back of it. I had my manifold off yesterday to replace the foam blocks and figured I'd get some pictures of the issue to help people prepare. If...
forum.ih8mud.com
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Jason Andrews
Modaholic
I joined this club. Code P032D knock sensor harness #3. If you ever have your intake off, I'd consider it a good idea as PM to wrap those harnesses in the engine valley in an aluminum tape or something similar. Apparently when manufacturers moved away from petroleum based products some went to soy coatings and ours is coated in linseed oil so a tasty snack for vowels, packrats, or ground squirrels when out in the bush.
currently attacking this fix. curious if you can do it without draining the radiator? anyone try? i bought a harness and 4 sensors so and manifold gasket. thanks
- Thread starter
- #39
There is a coolant hose that runs to the throttle body, so you don't really have to drain the entire system, just enough to get it below that level. It will make a big mess on top of the engine if you don't.
bloc
SILVER Star
You really don't need to open the TB coolant lines anyway. Removing it from the intake manifold is four small bolts, and the gasket generally reusable. Just let it hang there while the manifold is out. Though you could get a new gasket to have on hand for peace of mind.
