I have a leaky oil pan gasket as it appears, so I am going to drop the pan and put in a new gasket. Is there anything that I should do while the pan is down? Any others seals or things to replace? Anything to look out for?
Dropping oil pan, anything I should do?
- Thread starter fxk142
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Front and rear main seals would be a good thing.
- Thread starter
- #3
are they easy to do with the pan out? How much more work is involved?
And where can a I get the best shop manual?
And where can a I get the best shop manual?
You can order a Toyota Factory Service Manual directly from Toyota in Torrence, Ca.
They are the best manuals avaliable and the same ones the dealerships use.
They are the best manuals avaliable and the same ones the dealerships use.
- Thread starter
- #5
Are those stock wheels you have your 33's on? Do they fit and do they wear ok? Did you have to change gearing? Would they work ok on my stock 62, planning the OME lift.
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I just took mine off an 84 this weekend. Had to take off skid plate and replace half the metal in the bottom due to rust. While you have it off I highly recommend you take off the skid plate.
To get it off, just remove the lower bell housing cover, 7 screws. The screws attaching the oil pan are not tight if they were torqued correctly. Remove all the bolts. Place a 12 to 16 inch 2x4 on the side of the pan. Use a small jack to slowly press on the 2x4. Wedge it between the oil pan and frame. Do it slowly. It took about 3 minutes per side on mine before the pan let loose. No damage this way.
Remove all of the gasket material and then spray all of the corner areas with gasket remover. Scrap and spray until you get bare metal. The half moons are fun to get everything out. You need a narrow screw driver to get between the lips of them.
To remove the skid plate, clean the plate or sand until you see the spot welds. Mine were about 3/8" in diameter and there were 7 of them. Use a drill bit near the size of the welds and drill them out. With the plate removed check all of the bottom metal integrity. I could put my finger through one section. I cut out about a 4 x 5 inch section and replaced it. As I ground down the weld, I caused more holes as the metal was so thin. I finally got it all built back up and rewelded the skid plate using the same spot weld holes.
Test the pan with oil or gas if you welded it. Pour in at least a gallon and let set for an hour. Pick it up and check the bottom. I found 2 of my spot welds leaked even though they looked great.
To replace the pan, first seal the area around the skid plate with black RTV. Place a really good bead around the entire skid plate and build it up where there will be no chance of further moisture penetration between the oil pan and the skid plate. Clean the top of the oil pan sealing area and the bottom of the engine where the gasket goes with mineral spirits or brake cleaner. Wipe off and repeat. Make certain all four corners are perfectly clean or you will be doing it AGAIN. Place a very thin coating of RTV on both the oil pan and the engine. Check which way the gasket goes on the oil pan and then place it on the engine. There is very little difference so check it first. Install the oil pan and screws. The book calls for 61 INCH/Pounds, NOT foot/pounds. That is about 5 foot/lbs so you probably don't have a torque wrench that will set it. Go slow and tighten it snug all around. Cross tighten, setting each bolt 180 degrees apart to keep everything even. Just like tightening lug nuts.
By the way, you can't change the rear seal without pulling the transmission.
Best of luck. Sorry to be so wordy. Retired nuclear/analytical chemist. You only think you have met someone anal!!!
Jackrabbit
1984 and 1987 FJ60's.
To get it off, just remove the lower bell housing cover, 7 screws. The screws attaching the oil pan are not tight if they were torqued correctly. Remove all the bolts. Place a 12 to 16 inch 2x4 on the side of the pan. Use a small jack to slowly press on the 2x4. Wedge it between the oil pan and frame. Do it slowly. It took about 3 minutes per side on mine before the pan let loose. No damage this way.
Remove all of the gasket material and then spray all of the corner areas with gasket remover. Scrap and spray until you get bare metal. The half moons are fun to get everything out. You need a narrow screw driver to get between the lips of them.
To remove the skid plate, clean the plate or sand until you see the spot welds. Mine were about 3/8" in diameter and there were 7 of them. Use a drill bit near the size of the welds and drill them out. With the plate removed check all of the bottom metal integrity. I could put my finger through one section. I cut out about a 4 x 5 inch section and replaced it. As I ground down the weld, I caused more holes as the metal was so thin. I finally got it all built back up and rewelded the skid plate using the same spot weld holes.
Test the pan with oil or gas if you welded it. Pour in at least a gallon and let set for an hour. Pick it up and check the bottom. I found 2 of my spot welds leaked even though they looked great.
To replace the pan, first seal the area around the skid plate with black RTV. Place a really good bead around the entire skid plate and build it up where there will be no chance of further moisture penetration between the oil pan and the skid plate. Clean the top of the oil pan sealing area and the bottom of the engine where the gasket goes with mineral spirits or brake cleaner. Wipe off and repeat. Make certain all four corners are perfectly clean or you will be doing it AGAIN. Place a very thin coating of RTV on both the oil pan and the engine. Check which way the gasket goes on the oil pan and then place it on the engine. There is very little difference so check it first. Install the oil pan and screws. The book calls for 61 INCH/Pounds, NOT foot/pounds. That is about 5 foot/lbs so you probably don't have a torque wrench that will set it. Go slow and tighten it snug all around. Cross tighten, setting each bolt 180 degrees apart to keep everything even. Just like tightening lug nuts.
By the way, you can't change the rear seal without pulling the transmission.
Best of luck. Sorry to be so wordy. Retired nuclear/analytical chemist. You only think you have met someone anal!!!
Jackrabbit
1984 and 1987 FJ60's.
- Thread starter
- #8
Crank bearings? Costly worth doing? 160K.
I just finished up my oil pan gasket today, clutch and rear main seal. In order to do the rear main you will need to pull the tranny.
Unless your engine mating surface for the oil pan gasket is damaged you do not need to place rtv on the engine side of the gasket. I only placed rtv on the oil pan then placed the gasket on th pan. No leaking. If you do use the rtv on the engine you will be hating life if you ever have to rmove your oil pan again for any reason. Also use caution reinstalling the bolts. Follow the torques and don't cross thread them.
Good luck.
Unless your engine mating surface for the oil pan gasket is damaged you do not need to place rtv on the engine side of the gasket. I only placed rtv on the oil pan then placed the gasket on th pan. No leaking. If you do use the rtv on the engine you will be hating life if you ever have to rmove your oil pan again for any reason. Also use caution reinstalling the bolts. Follow the torques and don't cross thread them.
Good luck.
i fixed oil leaks some time ago with new pan gaskets. soon after, still found leaks coming from the timing cover. oil was dripping down the cover on to the oil pan. replaced the cover gasket later and now no more leaky!
33"x12.5 with OME lift
Fit fine, drive fine...all is good
See ya around!
Fit fine, drive fine...all is good
See ya around!
- Thread starter
- #12
So I have to remove the lower bell housing cover in order to get the pan off?
No, don't put new bearings in unless you have the crank polished or turned. The old bearings are most likely fine.
Do take a look at each bearing cap. Look for dark baked on oil spots on the cap. They should be a nice gray cast iron color, not a black burned oil mess. Anyone have a picture? They are easy to spot. If you are unsure then take a couple pictures and post them.
You could also check the oil pump clearances if you wanted.
- Thread starter
- #14
I just got the oil pan and uato trans gaskets in the mail today and realized that they are cork. Do I need to soak these in anything prior to install, I know with old british cars that I am used to working on they had cork gaskets and required the gasket to be soaked in oil to allow it to expand to size. Anyone know?
Don't soak it. It'll be fine.
