Driver Side Brakes Sticking

[Mojarr0]

Hey,

I took my 1993 Land Cruiser on a 10 days trip through Arizona going through mud and snow with no issues about (2) years ago. When I got home my brake light came on, and I didn't think much of it. (6) months of driving it as my daily go by, and I notice the front, left brake pads were sticking to the rotor. Vehicle sat for about (6) months before I replaced the rotors and pads. The system was bled for days as it would not always produce a strong stream or produce air at the back and front, right side caliper and the front, left caliper. I found debris in all (4) caliper bleed valves and cleaned them out. I checked every non hardline hose, and they all released a stream of fluid to demonstrate no clogs. I never checked the hardline. I finally became frustrated and replaced all (4) calipers, the load sensing proportioner, brake booster, master cylinder, and the first rubber hoses directly out of the caliper. My problem went away. I drive 45 mins to work, and on my way back home at around 30 mins on the road the brake light came back. My front, left brake was sticking again. Car has now sat an additional for over a year, and the only thing I can think of is to check the hardlines as I never did. Was thinking of blowing them with air, but what ide love to do is just replace them but I can't find a set of brake hardlines being sold anywhere. Has anyone experienced something like this and found a solution, or more mechanically inclined to understand the issue?

Thank you in advance.

 

[jonheld]

The only 2 things that cause the dash BRAKE lamp to illuminate are the handbrake switch and the fluid level sensor in the reservoir cap.
It does not and cannot indicate a problem with any caliper/pad/rotor/hard line/soft line/booster/master.

Brake pads don't "stick" to a rotor. Disk brake pads don't retract from the rotor surface when you release the pedal. There is just no pressure applied and they will simply float on the rotor surface. When you step on the brake pedal, you're stepping on a column of hydraulic fluid that pressurizes the calipers and applies pressure to the pistons.

The pads might wear unevenly if a piston is seized in the caliper. Toyota sells rebuild kits and associated parts for calipers. They can be rebuilt with new parts or simply replaced with remanufactured OEM calipers.

 

[CharlieS]

If sounds like you didn't do the inboard rubber hoses. Not likely, but you could have a failure internal to the line, creating a check valve of sorts. I has this happen on a bmw motorcycle and it locked the caliper up solid. Not saying it is likely, but for my money, I'd replace the rubber lines. Then rebuild or replace the caliper as needed.

 

[DIRTBIKEUSA]

Piston square seal has warped and causes piston to cock sideways. Rusty piston..rusty hardware. No lube on caliper slide pins…

That’s all my guesses..

 

[TheBussman]

If sounds like you didn't do the inboard rubber hoses. Not likely, but you could have a failure internal to the line, creating a check valve of sorts. I has this happen l on a bmw motorcycle and it locked the caliper up solid. Not saying it is likely, but for my money, I'd replace the rubber lines. Then rebuild or replace the caliper as needed.

I've also seen this too, there are 4 rubber hoses on the front brakes. best to replace them all if they are original.

 

[Mojarr0]

The only 2 things that cause the dash BRAKE lamp to illuminate are the handbrake switch and the fluid level sensor in the reservoir cap.
It does not and cannot indicate a problem with any caliper/pad/rotor/hard line/soft line/booster/master.

Brake pads don't "stick" to a rotor. Disk brake pads don't retract from the rotor surface when you release the pedal. There is just no pressure applied and they will simply float on the rotor surface. When you step on the brake pedal, you're stepping on a column of hydraulic fluid that pressurizes the calipers and applies pressure to the pistons.

The pads might wear unevenly if a piston is seized in the caliper. Toyota sells rebuild kits and associated parts for calipers. They can be rebuilt with new parts or simply replaced with remanufactured OEM calipers.

You are correct. I honestly did not think about getting completely technical. The brake light on makes sense as my E Brake does not work (one side does not engage), but I do find it interesting that it did turn on after my issue when I have had this E brake problem for the past 5 years, and my dluid seems fine when I check. What I did not note is that I did rebuild my calipers first, and this did not fix my left, front caliper from staying engaged. After this is when I decided to replace everything I mentioned above which includes the calipers. Caliper after rebuild and after swapping on new calipers is not seized. They only depress after I relieve pressure via bleeding.

 

[Mojarr0]

If sounds like you didn't do the inboard rubber hoses. Not likely, but you could have a failure internal to the line, creating a check valve of sorts. I has this happen l on a bmw motorcycle and it locked the caliper up solid. Not saying it is likely, but for my money, I'd replace the rubber lines. Then rebuild or replace the caliper as needed.

I replaced the "outer" hoses as it was all I could find. Would you mind linking me to all those hoses in question?

 

[Mojarr0]

Piston square seal has warped and causes piston to cock sideways. Rusty piston..rusty hardware. No lube on caliper slide pins…

That’s all my guesses..

I appreciate the help. Pistons are good, and slide pins are lubed.

 

[Mojarr0]

I've also seen this too, there are 4 rubber hoses on the front brakes. best to replace them all if they are original.

They are definitely original. Per my image above, I replaced the (1) outer hose on each brake. Would you be able to link me to the hoses in question? I'm deep on the brskes, and wouldn't mind dropping more money just to get it going. This will be cheaper than replacing pads and rotors constantly.

 

[jonheld]

They are definitely original. Per my image above, I replaced the (1) outer hose on each brake. Would you be able to link me to the hoses in question? I'm deep on the brskes, and wouldn't mind dropping more money just to get it going. This will be cheaper than replacing pads and rotors constantly.

An 80 Series with ABS has 7 soft brake lines. If they are 31 years old, they are WAY past their service life.
All are available from any Toyota dealer.
Banjo bolts and copper crush washers will likely need replacement as well. Part numbers below.

90947-02A16 Front caliper flex hose left/right (qty 2)
90947-02614 Rear caliper flex hose RH (qty 1)
90947-02615 Rear caliper flex hose LH (qty 1)
90947-02A18 Front axle drop LH (qty 1)
90947-02817 Front axle drop RH (qty 1)
90947-02A17 Rear axle drop (qty 1)

90430-10074 High pressure gaskets/copper crush washers (qty 2 per banjo fitting/total 8)
90401-10015 High pressure fittings/copper banjo bolts (qty 1 per caliper=total 4)

NOTE: The axle drop part numbers above assume stock height. Lifted trucks might require longer axle drops depending on height.

 

[DIRTBIKEUSA]

Bad brake lines? Proportioning/combo valve?

 

[Mojarr0]

An 80 Series with ABS has 7 soft brake lines. If they are 31 years old, they are WAY past their service life.
All are available from any Toyota dealer.
Banjo bolts and copper crush washers will likely need replacement as well. Part numbers below.

90947-02A16 Front caliper flex hose left/right (qty 2)
90947-02614 Rear caliper flex hose RH (qty 1)
90947-02615 Rear caliper flex hose LH (qty 1)
90947-02A18 Front axle drop LH (qty 1)
90947-02817 Front axle drop RH (qty 1)
90947-02A17 Rear axle drop (qty 1)

90430-10074 High pressure gaskets/copper crush washers (qty 2 per banjo fitting/total 8)
90401-10015 High pressure fittings/copper banjo bolts (qty 1 per caliper=total 4)

NOTE: The axle drop part numbers above assume stock height. Lifted trucks might require longer axle drops depending on height.

Thank you. I am definitely going to drop money on these lines. After all the rubber hoses are replaced, the only other parts of my brake system which will not have been changed are the hardlines and anything related to the brake.

 

[Mojarr0]

Bad brake lines? Proportioning/combo valve?

I replaced the proportioning valve and will be ordering all soft brake lines today.

 

[TheBussman]

They are definitely original. Per my image above, I replaced the (1) outer hose on each brake. Would you be able to link me to the hoses in question? I'm deep on the brskes, and wouldn't mind dropping more money just to get it going. This will be cheaper than replacing pads and rotors constantly.

not sure i would risk it on cheap brake hoses. get the genuine ones like jhonheld linked. no reason to replace the hard lines if they're not rusted out. very easy to test for a blockage, just step on the pedal with the it disconnected on the end. you will know right away if it's blocked and it probably isn't.

​

 

[Mojarr0]

not sure i would risk it on cheap brake hoses. get the genuine ones like jhonheld linked. no reason to replace the hard lines if they're not rusted out. very easy to test for a blockage, just step on the pedal with the it disconnected on the end. you will know right away if it's blocked and it probably isn't.

​

We have done this before. There is no blockage out of the hardline but out of the front, left caliper it does get blocked. I am waiting to order the hoses. I'm sure they are under $50, but I work for myself and money is non existent right now. I will be posting updates.

 

[Mojarr0]

I'm back 1-1/2 years later. So the brake lines I ended up looking up a while back at a toyota dealership and they are roughly $100 a pop. Just mentioning that because I thought the total was going to be $50ish.

I've started to work on the LC again and noticed this block which I had not before. The block has hard lines going into it from the master cylinder. You can trace the coiled line that leaves the master cylinder because it goes directly into this block I cannot identify. It looks like like many if the brake lines go into it before they distribute out to feed the brakes around the vehicle. I have tried googling it but all that pops up is the LSPV in the rear. Could someone help me identify what this is? I believe this could be the culprit to why both my front calipers do not return after i release the brake pedal. Please see attached images with references.

 

[Broski]

That’s the ABS module.
I doubt that’s the issue.

 

[ppc]

@Mojarr0,

That is the ABS pump/unit. All of these type of things can easily be found in the FSM that can be loaded from the "Resources section of this forum.