Door locks not working and I am going crazy (1 Viewer)

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Aug 23, 2014
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Maine
My door locks aren't working and I am at a loss as to why. I read several threads here and went ahead and bought some new parts. I managed to get them installed, but things still don't work.

1997 Land Cruiser. New master door lock and window switch and new door lock relay control box on the DS front door.

DS Front door locks and unlocks with no issues. Will not lock or unlock any other door. Not even the slightest sound from any other lock.

PS front door will unlock the DS front door. Will not lock/unlock itself, or rear doors

PS rear door will not lock or unlock automatically, makes no sounds
DS rear door will not lock or unlock automatically, makes no sounds


I have taken the DS rear door card off. Inserted a Toyota OEM new door lock. Same result, no automatic unlock or lock. I tried it at the PS doors, same result.

I tested to see if there is any voltage or any change at the wires going to the DS rear door when pushing lock / unlock. No change.

I'm struggling to figure out what to look for next. I'm open to suggestions :) I really want my door locks to work again.
 
The one that that I wonder is if the land cruiser originally had an alarm system that functioned to lock the doors. When that was removed, could something no longer be connected to the door locks that would prevent them from working? A long shot, but the only thing I can think of.
 
The one that that I wonder is if the land cruiser originally had an alarm system that functioned to lock the doors. When that was removed, could something no longer be connected to the door locks that would prevent them from working? A long shot, but the only thing I can think of.
Are you locking / unlocking with a key, the interior power button or an alarm FOB?

I removed the "factory" RS3000 alarm unit on my 96 LC and the following:

The power switch interior locks / unlocks all at one time.
My key works in the drivers door. Trip it once, it unlocks only the driver's door. Twice and it unlocks all.

A key in the PS front door and it unlocks all on one turn.

My rear gate has never worked on power lock or unlock, just with key. I have not looked into it.

What brand master door switch did you use? May have a difference there.

I have a Switch Doctor version installed in mine for the last 6 years with no issues.
 
Are you locking / unlocking with a key, the interior power button or an alarm FOB?

I removed the "factory" RS3000 alarm unit on my 96 LC and the following:

The power switch interior locks / unlocks all at one time.
My key works in the drivers door. Trip it once, it unlocks only the driver's door. Twice and it unlocks all.

A key in the PS front door and it unlocks all on one turn.

My rear gate has never worked on power lock or unlock, just with key. I have not looked into it.

What brand master door switch did you use? May have a difference there.

I have a Switch Doctor version installed in mine for the last 6 years with no issues.

I have tried locking / unlocking with the key, and the power lock button. No FOB, no alarm that I know about. It's possible that there used to be one, but not since I have owned it.

The master switch came from Switch Doctor.
 
I have tried locking / unlocking with the key, and the power lock button. No FOB, no alarm that I know about. It's possible that there used to be one, but not since I have owned it.

The master switch came from Switch Doctor.
Look under the driver's seat to see if the unit is still there.

If it is, it may not have been fully removed and had everything correctly plugged back in.

My rear windows were sketchy and had issues until I removed my alarm and it gave more room in the bottom of the A-Pillar. After pulling apart and re-plugging all the connectors, my windows worked again.

I would start doing this to the harness plugs in the bottom of the A-Pillar, DS behind the kickplate and work up under the dash from there. I ended up having to zip-tie a couple connections because the PO or stereo people broke the retaining clips on the harness connectors.
 
So they were all working but then all the sudden they stopped? Or they gradually got worse? Was the alarm recently removed or has it been gone a while?
 
I have tried locking / unlocking with the key, and the power lock button. No FOB, no alarm that I know about. It's possible that there used to be one, but not since I have owned it.

The master switch came from Switch Doctor.
Not sure you want to hear this, but last master switch thingy I bought from SD was worse than what I removed. I ended tearing apart the original one and cleaning it and put back in with better results. I know some folks have had good luck with them, but wasn't my case. And honestly not sure that is the root of your issue.
 
So they were all working but then all the sudden they stopped? Or they gradually got worse? Was the alarm recently removed or has it been gone a while?

They haven't worked since I bought the cruiser years ago. I have a daughter now and figured the other doors are important to be able to lock and unlock. That's my reason for finally trying to address the issue.
Not sure you want to hear this, but last master switch thingy I bought from SD was worse than what I removed. I ended tearing apart the original one and cleaning it and put back in with better results. I know some folks have had good luck with them, but wasn't my case. And honestly not sure that is the root of your issue.

Good point. I originally bought a "used, known working" switch. That had the same issue. That's when I bought the one from switch doctors. That has the same issue. So I'm guessing it's not the switch. Still possible though.

I looked under the dash just now. There is no box or anything. I did notice a plug that goes nowhere. It's 2 wires going into a 2 prong connector plug. Pink with a silver/grey spot every inch couple of inches. And a violet one with a silver/grey spot every few inches. I can't see what it would have plugged into though.

I will look under the seat to see if there is an alarm box there of any sort.
 
When you turn the key in the door, do you hear only one lock moving? Or do you hear multiple locks trying to move, but not doing so?
 
When you turn the key in the door, do you hear only one lock moving? Or do you hear multiple locks trying to move, but not doing so?
When I turn the key in the door, only the DS front makes a sound and has any movement. The other locks, no sounds, and as I just found out, no change in voltage.

I have no change in voltage at DS rear, or PS front/rear doors. Only at the DS front door lock actuator.
 
Look under the driver's seat to see if the unit is still there.

If it is, it may not have been fully removed and had everything correctly plugged back in.

My rear windows were sketchy and had issues until I removed my alarm and it gave more room in the bottom of the A-Pillar. After pulling apart and re-plugging all the connectors, my windows worked again.

I would start doing this to the harness plugs in the bottom of the A-Pillar, DS behind the kickplate and work up under the dash from there. I ended up having to zip-tie a couple connections because the PO or stereo people broke the retaining clips on the harness connectors.
I removed the DS front seat. No alarm there and nothing that looks out of place. So, I guess I go under the dash on the DS pillar. Yikers shmikers!
 
Sometimes the door jamb wiring splits apart.
I'm not sure I follow you. Would that mean the door jamb wiring from the DS front door as that is where all the connections come from? There is a disconnected 2 pin connector there, but I don't see anything else.
 
I'm not sure I follow you. Would that mean the door jamb wiring from the DS front door as that is where all the connections come from? There is a disconnected 2 pin connector there, but I don't see anything else.
The wires that go from the door to the body flex everytime the door is opened or closed. The wires can break from the flexing. Check for power/continuity before the door jamb area and after.
 
Check the front left kick panel. The door lock / unlock switch there may have been unplugged if someone removed an alarm.

If whoever removed the alarm didn’t reconnect the two plug that were going to the rs3000 harness it’ll cause issues.

Page 6 on the install guide below will show you where the connectors are - just reverse this and reconnect them - they are kinda buried in there.

INSTALL guide
 
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Check the front left kick panel. The door lock / unlock switch there may have been unplugged if someone removed an alarm.

If whoever removed the alarm didn’t reconnect the two plug that were going to the rs3000 harness it’ll cause issues.

Page 6 on the install guide below will show you where the connectors are - just reverse this and reconnect them.

INSTALL guide
Hmmm, thank you. This seems likely. But open to other suggestions while I read away.
 
Makes me think I'll just put a switch on the horn rather than remove my annoying alarm system.
 
I'm going the other way - installing an alarm which is why I've been doing research on this - going to hack up an RS3000 harness to make a Viper alarm plug and play. I'll document it as I go - yanking the factory alarm is really pretty easy - it only connects at a few points.
 
Just note that if they unplugged the alarm box and did't remove the harness fully it may not function as expected - so the plugs may look still connected in the kick panel.

Check to see if there is a harness under the drivers seat - this may be hidden under the carpet as it's pulled through a slit in the under there - as I recall its 2 x 10 wire plugs and a single 4 wire plug at the alarm brain end (under the drivers seat).

Page 16 has the wire routing.

If it's there I'd keep the harness in case you decide to install a different security / remote start system as the connectors are no longer available from Toyota. I had to go hunting in the classifieds for one :)

If it's not a removed alarm you'll need to start tracing the wires through those connectors for power anyway.
 
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What happens if you turn the key twice in the driver's door?

Do youself a favor and buy a power probe 3.

power probe video - Google Search - https://www.google.com/search?q=power+probe+video&client=ms-android-samsung&sxsrf=ALeKk03PlPuL7-BbOGyxAksjJAHNpjepcA%3A1622479908447&ei=JBS1YJbeGsr4-gTV6LGIBA&oq=power+probe+video&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBQgAEIsDMgkIABAHEB4QiwMyCQgAEAcQHhCLAzIGCAAQBxAeMgYIABAHEB4yBggAEAcQHjIGCAAQCBAeOgQIABBHOgUIABDNAlCZvwFY-skBYJPMAWgAcAF4AIABqAGIAZQKkgEDMC45mAEAoAEByAEIuAEDwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:677c4dd1,vid:FuzfCOlA1Vw,st:0

I wouldn't even consider opening up a door to try and work on windows or lock problems without one of these. It will give you the ability to bypass all the wires and switches so you can directly check the electric motors. Than you can keep applying power to the circuit to find the problem. For instance you could apply power to one side of the master switch and everything works, than apply power to the other side and nothing works. Now you know you need a new master switch
 

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