What was your start-to-finish time for the job?
Door Lock Actuator Replacement (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter socalsuv
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It took couple of hours but I was taking my sweet time. I think it could be done in 30-60 minutes.
Amazing. Thanks for the photos as well. Do you (or anyone) know of a recent step by step on this? I know there are some older videos but it seems like the process is continually improving.
There is another shorter thread here that might be good but it talks about removing the handle which is not necessary.
I should probably document step by step when I do another one
I don't think it was mentioned in the original writeup, but I found it helpful to remove the lower window track bolt to gain more space to remove the front actuators. Just use caution to avoid creasing or damaging the track.There is another shorter thread here that might be good but it talks about removing the handle which is not necessary.
I should probably document step by step when I do another one
Here's a step by step guide to replacing the door lock motors that I made several years ago for a friend. Mine is a 2003 and uses the motor with collars. I don't think I do the part about removing the lock mechanism anymore, just the actuator.
LC Door Lock Motor Replacement
Due to my hot climate, I've done all the doors at least twice and about to do a rear door again soon. Takes me about 30 minutes per door since I've done it so many times.
Chris.
LC Door Lock Motor Replacement
Due to my hot climate, I've done all the doors at least twice and about to do a rear door again soon. Takes me about 30 minutes per door since I've done it so many times.
Chris.
True. I thought that is a must since actuator is almost behind it.
how long does the new motor last?
The originals lasted the longest. For me, the replacements about 3-5 years. From reading this thread, it appears that hot climates fare worst. We are frequently over 100 deg F here.
Chris
Sacramento has the same issue. Is there a thread/video for the rear hatch lock as well?
The is next on the list for me. Going to refoam the speakers while I have the doors apart.
Has anyone added lube or grease to worm gear? Seems like a good idea but wasn't sure what would be ideal for this purpose.
Has anyone added lube or grease to worm gear? Seems like a good idea but wasn't sure what would be ideal for this purpose.
I live in Houston and have to replace them pretty much every year. They certainly don't last as long as the OEM.
While the motors are cheap, I'm beginning to worry about the cumulative wear to the door parts from having to replace these so often. Makes me wonder if it's cheaper in the long run to just buy new OEM assemblies.
The entire assemblies are around $140-$160 IIRC, if you source the AISIN part numbers instead of buying the Toyota ones.
Example: Door Lock Actuator Motor – Front Passenger Side AISIN DLT-092 - http://newparts.com/product/aisin/DLT092
Bomar
SILVER Star
I just bought Front Driver for $126 on RockAuto Aisin DLT-081
I was having issues with all 5 locks. I did the rear hatch first followed by the front doors. Interestingly, fixing the driver's door seems to have fixed the rear doors as well. I've not touched them, but have had no issues with them since doing the drivers door. 
looks like this Server Busy - https://www.amazon.com.au/SleYuYir-Actuator-1997-2001-Replace-69110-33010/dp/B0C1CVYWH8I knocked this small rubber "hose" off with my hands while removing the door lock assembly to install new lock motors.
Where does it go?
A buddy of mine out in Utah lost the use of all 5 door lock actuators for locking. It turned out there is a slim black (ground?) wire that was broken somewhere in the door jam area to the master control switches. This wire was a thinner wire than the others.I was having issues with all 5 locks. I did the rear hatch first followed by the front doors. Interestingly, fixing the driver's door seems to have fixed the rear doors as well. I've not touched them, but have had no issues with them since doing the drivers door.
As it turns out, not long after making the above post, my driver side rear door started acting up. I'm going to have to change that one sooner or later too.
Hi guys.
Anyone to only detache the upper link cable of the locking mechanism or rear passenger door?
No problem form the handle side but how about the lock itself.
I saw people removing one near the actuator.
I just need to replace the upper broken one.
Need to remove the whole mechanism anyway but wanted to ask prior if there are any "tricks" or "no do's" to make it free.
Thanks.
Anyone to only detache the upper link cable of the locking mechanism or rear passenger door?
No problem form the handle side but how about the lock itself.
I saw people removing one near the actuator.
I just need to replace the upper broken one.
Need to remove the whole mechanism anyway but wanted to ask prior if there are any "tricks" or "no do's" to make it free.
Thanks.
you must not know that older version motors use bulging tip on the motor and newer LX and LC use flat motor tip
any idea of the cutoff year?
that fact is one of the factors that has me hesitating on doing this choir.
