Door Lock Actuator Replacement (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter socalsuv
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
gwilson
GOLD Star
is that partsouq?
xeuxaz
SILVER Star
100 Series Door Card Retainer Clips
The door card clips break rather frequently in the 100 Series Land Cruiser and Lexus LX470. These 10-packs of OEM replacement parts help owners return their vehicle to factory condition one small part at a time. Kit includes: OEM Clip 10-pack (for front door trim board) Ivory: 90467-07066-A1...
www.cruiserpatch.com
Small stuff like that, I order through Lexus Parts. They give you a shipping credit up to $100, with no minimum purchase and there is no sales tax if the dealership is outside of your home state. You can get one of those, out the door, from Chatham Parkway Lexus (31405) for $1.66. Part# is 9046707066A1
You can probably find it for less somewhere else, but they will crush you with shipping and you will most likely have to pay sales tax.
Last edited:
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yes, as I said, if you don't have access to the Toyota EPC, you should use a dealer website (such as Ourisman or Olathe) to verify part numbers, but they likely won't have the EPC diagrams, just lists of parts they commonly sell. PartSouq's website uses the older ones, but they are accurate, if you use your VIN. Again, ignore their "availability" numbers. At best, that is what they had on hand the last time they updated their database (which appears to be on an infrequent and unscheduled basis).
Lexus part number 90467-07066-A1 for Ivory trim for 98-03 models. Not sure what year you have. I just had to order a few myself. This crosses over to Toyota the part number too.
Well, today I tried to replace the actuator motor on my rear right door. Bought this motor on ebay: FC-280 Motor with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motor - Auto FC-280PT-22125 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/196071660359
I have assembled everything correctly and the motor was a perfect fit, but it still didn't work and I have no idea why. I can only assume the new motor was faulty. Now I'm kicking myself for not ordering more. Other than that, what could be the problem? Faulty wiring maybe?
Anybody care to comment if I got the right motor?
So I think I should order a couple more motors this time, unfortunately it will be another 3 weeks wait for delivery. The only other option would be to replace the entire actuator. Open to ideas and suggestions.
I have assembled everything correctly and the motor was a perfect fit, but it still didn't work and I have no idea why. I can only assume the new motor was faulty. Now I'm kicking myself for not ordering more. Other than that, what could be the problem? Faulty wiring maybe?
Anybody care to comment if I got the right motor?
So I think I should order a couple more motors this time, unfortunately it will be another 3 weeks wait for delivery. The only other option would be to replace the entire actuator. Open to ideas and suggestions.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I would definitely verify the wiring before I replaced the motor again. Do you hear anything when you try to lock/unlock it? Same issue whether you actuate it from that door or the driver's door? You and disconnect the motor and check voltage with/without the button actuated and start tracing it back from there if there's no change.
No, there's not sound or movement whatsoever on that door when locking/unlocking. I even disconnected the cables from the door handle and checked the actuator cable has too much resistance - moving it manually requires very little effort, so it couldn't be the cause.
I only tried to actuate it from the driver's door, otherwise the key remote doesn't even lock the door if it detects one of the doors is open I think. Unfortunately I ran out of time today and had to reassemble everything. Getting a couple more motors would actually be easier than messing with the tester which is something I'm not particularly good at. There are 4 pins on the actuator connector if I remember correctly, so I don't know, I should test every possible combination or pairs and see if there is voltage when actuated from the driver's door? I would need a second person for that I think.
You can remove the actuator and check it by plugging it back into the harness. I’ve had the case split open and break the electrical connection at the motor. You can squeeze the case while someone actuates the locks and see if that fixes it. If so you’ll need to resplit the case, clean it up, and epoxy it back together. Make sure you let it cure long enough before you reinstall.
I didn't glue the case, but instead had a tight zip tie around it as someone suggested in one of the earlier posts. I checked and there were no gaps or anything, but I guess I can try squeezing it and see if that changes anything.
Those little motors have a surprising amount of torque. The case only needs to separate a 1/16” or so to break the connection.
Those little motors worked themselves loose after my first repair attempts on the actuators. Like others said, surprising amount of torque. If you pinch it down tight right over the contacts theyll probably work again.
I had to go back in there twice cause I didnt secure it enough each time. Gorilla glue and zip ties worked for a little bit but it eventually got loose and I got frustrated and went overboard. Here's my tip for perfectly measuring the amount of JBWeld you need... Drench it until you think "this is way too much" then add a little bit more. Keep them clamped while its curing.
So I received an extra couple of new motors, tried them both, but still there's no life. I even tried to clamp the plastic housing over the contacts, but nothing.
Is there an explanation or a diagram somewhere of this 4 contact actuator plug? Running out of ideas. Right now I can only suspect the housing itself is dead and needs replacing.
Is there an explanation or a diagram somewhere of this 4 contact actuator plug? Running out of ideas. Right now I can only suspect the housing itself is dead and needs replacing.
I was going through the repair manual and found the actuator troubleshooting guide:
So after fiddling around more with the actuator housing and using a different clamp, I was able to activate it with a tester. It works as instructed in the manual both ways.
However, when I plugged it back into the socket, it won't work. So I tested the pins of the actuator socket. The pin number 3 is responsive, but unfortunately the pin number 2 seems to be dead.
So it looks to me that the wiring has gone bad. At the moment I'm out of ideas, so I'd welcome any.
So after fiddling around more with the actuator housing and using a different clamp, I was able to activate it with a tester. It works as instructed in the manual both ways.
However, when I plugged it back into the socket, it won't work. So I tested the pins of the actuator socket. The pin number 3 is responsive, but unfortunately the pin number 2 seems to be dead.
So it looks to me that the wiring has gone bad. At the moment I'm out of ideas, so I'd welcome any.
Well, I finally managed to fix mine. It turns out, as suspected - one of the actuator wires in the harness was broken. I had the car booked with an electrician for some other stuff, so I got him to fix the harness as well. All is good now. During the whole process I got rather skilled at disassembling/assembling that particular section of the car, so when the time comes to do another one - it will be a lot easier.
Glad I found this, the driver side lock on my 99 is out.
