Builds Doc's 1978 FJ40 Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Today did allow for some assembly of the transfer case.
I started by breaking down some of the smaller pieces and laying everything out before putting things together.
Parts of the front wheel drive engagement fork:
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Everything put together; also pressed the front wheel drive pinion and new bearing into the housing and installed the snap ring. That snap ring was a pain to remove and not much easier to install. Most rings like this have two little holes that allow you insert your snap ring pliers and constrict the ring. . . I fiddled around for about ten minutes with a screwdriver and small pick to get it out.
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The idler gear, washers, bearings, spacer, new shaft/o-ring, and case plug. The Haynes service manual mentioned something about a spacer washer as well but to my knowledge there was none in addition to the two thrust washers. There was no room for anything else when everything went back together so what you see is what I put in.
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Dropping the gear down into the case was slightly tricky. . . I put a little grease on the back of each washer to help them stick into position on the case wall. I also started to install the idler shaft from the backside and moved it forward just enough to help hold the washer in place on the backside of the case. I held the front washer in with a finger on the left hand (from the outside) while I dropped the idler gear down in with the right hand. When the gear was in the correct position I was able to use my left hand finger to hold it in place while I advance the idler shaft with my right hand. Two people would have made the job a lot easier but I am to impatient to go find someone in such situations.
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I got a little ahead of myself by putting the entire output shaft together. . . the big gear will not fit thru the small hole on the front of the case. I pressed the large gear/bearing back off (after the picture was taken) before I was able to continue with assembly. Yes, I did this before I installed the idler gear which is why you see it on the table in the background. If nothing else it shows the order of the components on the shaft. . . do not forget the the spacer washer between each gear and cone bearing!
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One or two more posts forthcoming; typing as I eat supper consisting of lobster bisque and cheddar bay biscuits
:hungry:.
 
To install the ouput shaft I placed the transfer case on its side with the parking brake side down and rested the bearing cone, spacer washer, and large gear in place while I dropped the output shaft in thru the top. Do not forget to have the hi/low shift collar in place between the two gears. Once the output shaft was thru all the afore mentioned components the transfer case was tipped back up and I gently tapped on the front wheel drive side of the output shaft to help seat the opposite side cone bearing in place. I did not know if I could balance the entire transfer case on the press by myself while operating it so I went with the crude approach to get to the point you see in the picture.
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The bearings are not fully seated at this point so I installed the front wheel drive pinion/nosecone (with a new gasket) that has the bearing cup pressed in place on the backside (mates up with the cone bearing on the front side of the output shaft). Again, dont forget to install the shifting collar in the correct position.
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I then used the speedo housing on the backside of the case to gently nudge the rear bearing cup forward in the case toward the cone bearing. I installed just the speedo housing with gasket first and tightened each bolt little by little (alternating side to side/top to bottom) to push the bearing cup into the case. Once the housing was flush with the case I pulled it back off and positioned the shim in place that was between the bearing cup and speedo housing -- it was used to set the preload on the bearings when things were new so it should be a good starting point for going back together with new bearings. I used the same approach to tighten the speedo housing again while occasionally tapping the end of the output shaft with a brass hammer to seat the bearings in place. A quick note: in the picture below the bearing cup is not yet "pushed" forward into the case. I took the picture for a good visual of the shim/where it goes before my installation of the speedo housing.
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Speedometer housing in place; I also installed the front wheel drive shift fork in its position. Output shaft spins by hand -- firm but smooth as I expect it should.
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Cleaned up speedometer drive and new o-rings. The little inner o-ring sits about halfway down either end of the drive and I had to pluck it out with a little dental pick type tool and coax the new one down into place the same way. Installed the drive once the o-rings were in their proper positions.
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One more to come . . . bisque is gone but still several biscuits left!
 
Picture of the shifting fork, shaft (new o-ring), and detent ball/spring/screw nut/cottar key:
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Dropped the fork down into place and advanced the shaft from the backside of the case. Once the shaft was in position I secured it in place with the lock tab and installed the ball, spring, screw, and cottar key.
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Installed the top cover with shifting fork. Hi/Neutral/Low clicks thru as they should as does 2wd/4wd. I gave the case a clear coat and then had it pose with the other painted components from yesterday.
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The final step for today was installing the front and rear output shaft seals (I almost forgot about that part) and then the E-brake backing plate and front wheel drive flange.
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Stopped here for today as I am waiting on a new parking brake cable to arrive. The original has the sleeve cracked in several places with cable exposed so now is a good time to replace it. I will test the preload on the output shaft bearings with the parking brake drum in place in a day or two. . . paint is still soft and I dont want to scrape it up just yet.
I am pleased with how things went together, how the gears turn over/move thru the ranges, and how the case looks. As of right now I think the most challenging part of the entire project was removing the little needle bearing from the front wheel drive side of the output shaft. . . hydraulics with grease did not work so I had to use the die grinder to cut it out. I did have one small oil seal left over from the Cruiser Outfitter's rebuild kit. . . it was about the same size as the seal I replaced on the top cover for the Hi/Low shift fork. I am hoping the kit is used for other applications and that is an extra that is included -- otherwise I cannot think of where it would go. On the plus side no gears, washers, or extra bolts were found left on the work bench so I think everything else is back where it should be.
 
The extra seal might be used in some speedo drives
Input gear is going in mail this AM.

That is a good thought Jim, I checked my speedometer drive and the seal is too large (by a small amount) for that application. I meant to take the number down today but was distracted by other things. Appreciate you getting the gear out so fast. . . I think I am ready for it as the following pictures may show.

Wow just found this thread. Awesome build! Subscribed

Thanks for the feedback. I find new build threads almost each time I spend more than a few minutes on the site. I am trying to follow as many as I can with my super slow internet!

My parking brake cable arrived today so of course I had to try and get some shop time in. Installed the cable as well as a new set of brake shoes and hardware. Almost looks too good to cover up. . .
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Key word being almost. With the brake drum on I used some string and my old K-mart fish scale (spent about a half hour looking for the tackle box. . . ever spend more time looking for a tool than you spend using it?) to check the preload on the output shaft bearings. According to the service manual it should register between 2 and 9 lbs. with new bearings -- I was reading between 4 and 5 lbs. so we should be good.
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And that brings us to a couple glamour shots of the "finished" product. I hand tightened the transmission output shaft cover to keep stuff from finding its was down into the case until I install it. Maybe this weekend if Jim C's gear arrives by then. . .
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Another view. . . I am pleased I went with the clear coat vs. the alumni-blast paint.
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Also managed to paint the transmission and the new brake lines I made from the axles to the frame.
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I dug a few more parts out of the pile in the storage barn: set of propeller shafts, steering column parts, and steering box. Those will be the next components to undergo the cleaning and overhaul process. It feels good to see the parts pile get smaller and see the drivetrain taking shape!
 
Not much drama or excitement in the shop today.
Jim C's transfer drive gear did arrive and it is a bit better than the one I have. . . but as much as I wanted to push forward with installing the transfer case I held back a bit and focused on some smaller parts.

Spent most of today cleaning the propeller shafts and steering box. Because of the universals and greasy shaft splines I did not want to clean the shafts in the blast cabinet. . . so the wire wheel, brushes, and cleaning solvent were used to clean most of the heavies off. In and around the universal joints took as much time as anything else.
I replaced the seals on the steering box (I tried putting the boxes in the picture if anyone needs aftermarket numbers for reference). I replaced the pitman arm seal by plucking the old one out with my seal puller and pressing the new one in. I did take the top cover off the box to replace the small upper seal. . . was pleased to find a very clean inside of the box but very little oil. Filled it back up with gear oil and put the top cover back on. Thought about filling it with John Deere Corn Head Grease -- something Ive used in tractor steering boxes. Its kind of a liquid and kind of a grease; a bit thicker than your standard gear oil. We will see if the new seal keeps the gear oil inside the box -- should it seep out again I may go with my JD grease.
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Sprayed a quick coat of 2K Primer on all the pieces with my Spray Max Rattle Can; will spray some black on everything tomorrow. I went with the spray route because I didnt want to deal with a brush among all the nooks and crannies inside the universal areas.

My thinking is to have the propeller shafts ready to go when I install the transfer case. . . not as exciting as seeing the engine, transmission, and transfer case bolted together but this way the paint is allowed to dry and should be more efficient. Perhaps something exciting will happen over the weekend. . . :happy:
 
The big event for today was joining the transfer case up to the transmission. I was actually able to convince Mrs. TractorDoc to come over to the shop with me; it was helpful to have two people for the job. She ran the chain lift for me while I steadied the heavy engine. We lifted it out of the frame and rested it in the bed of the Kubota ATV again. While I had explicit instructions that I was not to include her in any of my pictures she took it upon herself to take a couple action shots. I am not one for putting my image out there on the web too much but you will get to see a bit more of me than usual in today's post. Once the engine/transmission was stable I carried the transfer case over and started it over the transmission output shaft. I slid Jim C's provided drive gear into is position in the case and used the new oil seal to help hold it in place while engaging the output shaft splines -- not the easiest job!
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In case anyone with a sharp eye is concerned I did not steal my lifting strap from the local fire department. . . that is a leftover from yet another one of my previous lives. Once I had the transfer case up against the transmission I had the Mrs. come over and start/snug up the mounting bolts. Torqued everything up, installed the spacer, new trans output shaft bearing, other spacer, washer, and new nut. . . then torqued it down.
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I put the spark plugs back in the engine and engaged the transmission in first gear to get the nut tight -- Jim C. advised me to tighten the output shaft nut as much as I can to minimize the play in the transfer drive gear. The Mrs. ran the lift again and before you knew it the engine, transmission, and transfer case were mounted in the frame.
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The fit between the parking brake drum and cross member is as my old mentor Smitty would say T - I - T Tight! Only about an eighth of an inch between the two. I started another thread to discuss whether I should modify the cross member or not. . . looking forward to see what kind of feedback I get.
Installed the transfer linkage after referencing back to see how everything fit together:
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I also test fit one of the transmission to transfer case bypass hoses from @shipmag at the suggestion of @thebigredrocker -- I know this is a band aid fix and should not be necessary with the new seal between the transfer case and transmission. . . only way I can see it hurting though is by going up hill a lot and having more oil than necessary flow back to the transfer case. If I goofed up my seal at the install or if it starts to let some oil by from the transfer case to the transmission due to my output shaft wear the hose might save the new bearings I just installed.
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And that was where I left things for today. Took my six year old nephew out to see the movie "Monster Trucks," I was hoping to see an FJ40 make an appearance but the movie must have been sponsored by Dodge as Ram Trucks were everywhere. It was his first movie and he seemed to have a good time. . . the kid can eat some popcorn!

I will see if I can get the propeller shafts installed tomorrow and think some more about what to do with the cross member. . . that should be one of the last big hurdles before I mount the cowl on.
 
That parking brake seal is a common leak. Without any hesitation I could cut the torque tube and rotate it back enough so u can remove the drum to service the seal. In addition, the seal between the tcase and Trans is a common leak. I would rotate the tube enough to facilitate removing the tcase. With a Sawzall and a welder it should only take 30 minutes or so to move the torque tube. Clearcoating the tcase looks really nice. You may want to hook the 4wd shifter up just to make sure it shifts smoothly with the shifter while it's easy to take the top cover off and adjust the detent spring if it's too tight.
 
Started torquing down bolts and test fitting parts over the last couple days. I thought I would have no problem getting the front crankshaft nut to 130 ft.lbs. with the propeller shafts installed but I ended up spinning the wheels as I tried tightening the nut down. . . even with the wheels blocked/chocked in first gear. I ended up taking the old belt and used it with the overhead lift to add a little friction to the damper pulley and was able to achieve the proper torque without trouble.
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In anticipation of getting the cowl mounted to the frame I blasted and painted the pedal hanger/pedals. A care package also arrived from @Racer65 (cityracerllc.com) -- a new brake booster and proportioning valve that should help compliment all the other new brake components already installed.
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Little by little I have also started to add some of the little pieces I have been cleaning and painting over the last couple months. Steering box and heat shield in place:
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Water pump, alternator, and front splash shield in place:
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New clutch hose, battery tray base, starter installed, new fuel filter, etc.:
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Half the pieces are tightened down for good and the other half are test fit in place to see how things look. Short of needing to tap a few holes everything seems to fit thus far without much modification. I hope to begin fitting coolerman's rear wire harness and with any luck may try mounting the cowl this weekend. . .
 
Thanks Dave,
I have been trying to watch what you have been up to as well. . . nice to see the frame and axles together; hopefully you and Mark will have an engine in place soon! Your current progress and work look great. . . your truck is going to be top notch when its done.

Keep up the good work. . . Ill be watching! :coffee: (I think that is a pair of eyes holding a cup of coffee. . . I dont really text so I am not up on all the eemogies. How did we ever express our emotions without them?)
 
Thanks, sometimes I wish I didn't have a OCD view of my build. But, I appreciate you noticing the hard work we're doing. Mark warned me it would be difficult going in the direction of being period correct. Hopefully, I will be glad I made the decision to go in that direction. I couldn'thave picked a better mechanic to mentor me. He's teaching me alot.

Thanks Dave,
I have been trying to watch what you have been up to as well. . . nice to see the frame and axles together; hopefully you and Mark will have an engine in place soon! Your current progress and work look great. . . your truck is going to be top notch when its done.

Keep up the good work. . . Ill be watching! :coffee: (I think that is a pair of eyes holding a cup of coffee. . . I dont really text so I am not up on all the eemogies. How did we ever express our emotions without them?)
 
That's a really nice write up, that 40 is looking great!
 
Thanks Gator,
I appreciate anyone that takes the time to read my ramblings. . . . and the compliment!

Is that a '69 Chevelle I see in your lineup? My first car was a 1970 Chevelle; had a lot of fun in that car back in the day but it was sold when I had to go off to college. Had to get something a little more "practical" so I ended up with a Dodge Dakota instead. My vehicles and I have slowed down a lot since then but just like so many others would probably say part of me wishes I still had it. . . . especially because the guy I sold it to wrapped it around a tree about a month after he bought it from me! :cry:
 
I thought I would have no problem getting the front crankshaft nut to 130 ft.lbs. with the propeller shafts installed but I ended up spinning the wheels as I tried tightening the nut down. . . even with the wheels blocked/chocked in first gear.
Umm, yea, about that. First gear is a serious tork multiplier, so by putting it in 1st gear (3.6) and putting the case in 4low (2.0) and then through the axles (4.1), the 130 at the crank becomes 3,800 ft lbs at the wheels. :eek:

OTOH, with tranny in 4th (1.0) and 4-hi (1.0) and through the diff (4.1), the 130 is a more manageable 530 ft lbs at the wheels.
 
Thanks Gator,
I appreciate anyone that takes the time to read my ramblings. . . . and the compliment!

Is that a '69 Chevelle I see in your lineup? My first car was a 1970 Chevelle; had a lot of fun in that car back in the day but it was sold when I had to go off to college. Had to get something a little more "practical" so I ended up with a Dodge Dakota instead. My vehicles and I have slowed down a lot since then but just like so many others would probably say part of me wishes I still had it. . . . especially because the guy I sold it to wrapped it around a tree about a month after he bought it from me! :cry:
Damn, that's a shame!
Your welcome Doc, your doing a fantastic job man. Yea its a 69 Chevelle Malibu not a SS, needs to be finished. Gave it to my youngest son when he came back from his 1st deployment, he's a Jar Head. Its got a strong 454 roller motor, needs some skin and paint, got a 12 Bolt posi out a 65 I need to put under it. Got a one legger in it now and at 80 or so you can stomp it without shifting down, and it'll fill the car with tire smoke. One of those cars you point and shoot, you know doesn't take curves to well, don't stop real fast, to much motor but a blast to drive. Told him if he didn't start sending some money I'm taking it back and finishing it. But I wont, I'll be starting on it before long.
 
Umm, yea, about that. First gear is a serious tork multiplier, so by putting it in 1st gear (3.6) and putting the case in 4low (2.0) and then through the axles (4.1), the 130 at the crank becomes 3,800 ft lbs at the wheels. :eek:

OTOH, with tranny in 4th (1.0) and 4-hi (1.0) and through the diff (4.1), the 130 is a more manageable 530 ft lbs at the wheels.

Thanks Jim,
Math lesson learned for the day. At the time I was thinking that turning the engine over in low gear makes the wheels go around less -- making quick work to get to the desired result. If its any consolation the transfer was in high range. . . and I may or may not have been under the influence of paint fumes.
With all the weight of the engine up front and nothing on the back it was quite easy to spin the rear wheels. I do not have the front lockers installed yet so we were essentially in 2wd.

I will definitely remember for next time! ;)
 
Nice steady progress, I envy your time and experience. My shop is too clean and too quite.

Thanks DMan. Time I wish I had more of. . . no matter how I plan there are never enough hours in the day. Experience I have only gained thru the help of others and by learning from my own mistakes. Honestly, Id like to have a cleaner shop but dad and I use it for so many different projects that stuff starts to pile up. If you check out the background in the pictures there is always a bunch of clutter that is waiting its turn. I am making a push to get the FJ40 as together as I can before spring/warmer weather comes and shop space gets even more cramped!
 

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