Dobinsons MRA 3-Way Adjustable FRONT Shocks for 100 Series and LX470 - 2.6" Body Size

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@MongooseGA
Its been about a year since you've had these on. What's your updated opinion?

Looking into these shocks , Slee and Radflo.
I would love to hear your longer term impressions and if you found any tricks to deal with making the finicky adjustments.
 
Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade my shocks, and am strongly considering these MRAs. Just not sure which ones to get and was hoping to get some feedback/guidance. I’ll share some data first:

- Vehicle weight is probably a little over stock (sliders, 1up bike rack, no after market bumpers or armor)
- 285/75/16 A/Ts
- Factor torsion bar lift in the front, hub-to-fender 21” (droop 2.25” = 57mm)
- OME UCAs (+2.5-3.5 degrees of caster, up to -1.5 degrees camber)
- OME 2860 springs in the rear, hub-to-fender 22” driver, 21.6” passenger (droop ~4” = 101mm)
- Factory Tokico shocks all 4 corners

I’m planning to crank the TBs a tad to get to 21.5” hub-to-fender (had them here initially, but I guess it’s settled over the past few months). My concern is this will eat away at my already limited droop. That’s what led me to come across this vid:
Down travel limited by shock?
It appears he was able to increase down travel by going with the GS59-786 Ext Travel shocks advertised for a 2-2.5” lift.

Then I came across these guys’ setup on Instagram, and their rig looks awesome (I believe they’re on mud as well, so please feel free to chime in guys if you see this):
IMG_0249.jpeg


So my questions are:
1) Given my “mild” front lift goal of 1.5”, should I go with the MRA59-A782 (advertised for up to 2” lift)? Or can I go with the MRA59-A786 (advertised for 2-2.5” lift), with the hopes of gaining more down travel? Is my rationale flawed? Would the ride quality or shock durability suffer if compressed at a ride height they were not intended for?

2) For the rear, can I go with the MRA59-A687 (specifically for the 80 series, not 100) as the guys above? Or would that be overkill and potentially problematic for a rig like mine with only 2” lift in the rear sitting on 33s?

Thanks in advance!
 
1) Given my “mild” front lift goal of 1.5”, should I go with the MRA59-A782 (advertised for up to 2” lift)? Or can I go with the MRA59-A786 (advertised for 2-2.5” lift), with the hopes of gaining more down travel? Is my rationale flawed? Would the ride quality or shock durability suffer if compressed at a ride height they were not intended for?

I have the extended length Dobinsons shocks across all three of mine, ranging from 1” to 2” in front lift, and enjoy the extra droop. One caution, with ~33” tires, and the extra droop, the factory jack will not lift the front of the truck enough to change a front tire, using the frame jacking point.

“Only 2 inches of lift”… 2 inches of suspension lift on these vehicles is typically on the ragged edge of reason, mainly due to the IFS.
 
So my questions are:
1) Given my “mild” front lift goal of 1.5”, should I go with the MRA59-A782 (advertised for up to 2” lift)? Or can I go with the MRA59-A786 (advertised for 2-2.5” lift), with the hopes of gaining more down travel? Is my rationale flawed? Would the ride quality or shock durability suffer if compressed at a ride height they were not intended for?

2) For the rear, can I go with the MRA59-A687 (specifically for the 80 series, not 100) as the guys above? Or would that be overkill and potentially problematic for a rig like mine with only 2” lift in the rear sitting on 33s?

Thanks in advance!
In order to run the extended length shocks up front, you must run aftermarket UCA's (which you have already) and a diff drop kit, or you'll risk busting a ball joint and CV joints with the extra droop. All 3 items are the limiting travel factors up front. The more you crank up the front, the more down travel you take away. And a diff drop kit will also reduce the clearance a bit as well.

The only reason to go with that extra length in the rear is if you want or need that extra droop. You have to sacrifice up travel by limiting that with bump stops, so it's generally not worth it in my opinion, unless you're rock crawling the thing. You'd also have to have all the right parts in place, including variable rate coils that will stay in place at full droop.
 
@crikeymike thanks for the pointers. Looking like I'll go MRA59-A782 (0-2" lift) up front, and the MRA59-A682 (0-3" lift) in the rear then. Do you happen to know if this set up will help me gain back some droop when I crank up to 21.5” hub-to-fender? Currently at 21” with 2.25” (57mm) of droop on factory Tokicos.

@jLB, out of curiosity, are you running a diff drop on any of your rigs with your MRA59-A786 (2-2.5" lift) shocks in the front?
 
@crikeymike thanks for the pointers. Looking like I'll go MRA59-A782 (0-2" lift) up front, and the MRA59-A682 (0-3" lift) in the rear then. Do you happen to know if this set up will help me gain back some droop when I crank up to 21.5” hub-to-fender? Currently at 21” with 2.25” (57mm) of droop on factory Tokicos.

@jLB, out of curiosity, are you running a diff drop on any of your rigs with your MRA59-A786 (2-2.5" lift) shocks in the front?
I don't have the factory shock length specs to make a comparison.

For the rear, the Dobinsons are definitely longer than OEM.
 
Dobinsons twin tube GS59-782 are 442mm. IMS and MRA are 455mm. Extended length 786's are 470.

CV's will bind up if the diff drop kit is not used with the extra travel of the 786's.
 

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