dobinson 3-way MRR shock hardware order of assembly? (1 Viewer)

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Just think about this logically. You need 2 poly bushings per side on your shock. For the top of the shock (for example) you'll have 1 on top of the mount to the vehicle mount and one below, because they isolate the vehicle from the vibrations that the shock sees. (they sandwich around the vehicle) Those bushings need protection so they don't get ripped up. So, there are washers that must cup them to protect them on both sides. In the middle, where you have 2 washers meet, you should not have a shoulder on the washers that is thicker than the mounting material because that will allow them to move around and destroy the mount itself... they should be held tight. (which is why the pictures that you posted don't look right to me. One shows a very thick shoulder area... the other shows a poly bushing that will be pressed right against the vehicle without protection)

Arrange the hardware to allow for solid fitment to the vehicle. (the way the other guy had his hardware makes sense to me...) The remaining hardware relates to mounting your remote reservoir. Use similar logic for that. Pull your old shock and pay attention to mounting there... take pictures with your phone. Then mock up the new one. You may need to pull it back out to insert a piece of hardware for mounting the remote res. Figure it out... get one corner right... then replicate. Start at the front because there is more room to see what you're doing.

This is something you should just dig into and do... writing steps can't get you more detail. If you're not comfortable digging into it, this is a quick/cheap job for a local mechanic.
Good luck.
 
OK, because you said please on mysherpa thread. To be clear I don't even have the shocks you have they were out of my price range for what I do (Rockcrawl) I do have the 6" lift Dobinson front monotube shocks, also came with no instructions. I installed them in the same order mysherpa did and the way I posted for you in my first diagram. And that the way I think the top and bottom of your front shock should mount.
As for the the last picture with two washers with the shoulders to shoulder, I just don't see how this could work. if one can't slip into the other they can't clamp to the mounting surface.
The top picture of you last post make more sense as it would allow clamping force to the mount.

I have no idea how you should install the remote reservoirs other them doing like BILT4ME suggested bring all the hardware out to your Reg and apply logic.
Again good luck.;)
 
here are the fronts and here are the rears for these.

no flanges inserting with washers on the rears. no face to face washers on the rears. no “bracket between washers on the rears”. just one “anti-rotation” washer. two left over flanged washers on the rears.

no washer and a rubber bushing at the front shock at the bottom. single large ID flat washer at the top of the front shock.

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Hard for me to tell on the rear , but the fronts look correct
 
BIG thanks to @brodsky and everyone that was able to help out. i think this should be it. again many thanks.
i’ll do a write up and post back but a couple of notes. 1. the “anti-twist” bracket has a different sized “tongue” (wide one is for 80 series) but they also have different sized bores. so the rubber bushings with the four nubbed surfaces on each side have different sized shoulders. there are three pairs of these with each rear shock and they look very similar so if you mix up the rubber bushings some won’t fit the bracket with the wide tongue which is the 80 series bracket.
2. the flanged washers attached to the front shocks with coat hangar are wider ID than the ones on the shocks. one pair or the other should fit the 80 series bracket. 3. the single flat washer with the wider ID goes at the top of the front shocks. 4. there is some relationship that the anti-twist bracket with the nubbed bushing on the rear shocks but i’ll have to post back on how that works.
again many thanks to everyone able to add some intel on this.

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