Dizzy Swap
- Thread starter xumFJ40
- Start date
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if that clamp is messed up,
i'll get under the hood and take some pics of the one i made.
but poser is right, the sbc clamp should work. that's what i was lookin for when i put my HEI in, but couldn't find one without chrome
good luck, and make sure you got oil flow. you don't want to screw your 2F.
(just sayin it again, b/c i checked about 20 times myself. i ain't got the money to buy a new engine. ha ha)
malphrus
i'll get under the hood and take some pics of the one i made.
but poser is right, the sbc clamp should work. that's what i was lookin for when i put my HEI in, but couldn't find one without chrome
good luck, and make sure you got oil flow. you don't want to screw your 2F.
(just sayin it again, b/c i checked about 20 times myself. i ain't got the money to buy a new engine. ha ha)
malphrus
- Thread starter
- #23
Ok guys,
I messed with it some last night. I noticed the same thing about the clamp...I think that I have that cured after a little time with the vice and a BFH.
Next, how is the dizzy body supposed to line up?
The pictures I have seen of the older dizzy show the vac port faceing the front of the truck. The other day when I set the timing static and got the truck running smoothly, the vac port was faceing the PS wheel well...is this ok? I don't really like how it puts the wires so close to the block in this possition. Last night when I tried it w/the vac port faceing the front I set the oil pump shaft to #4 and the rotor towards #1 with the mark in the inspection window set to º7 BTC. However, I am getting kind of a back fire out of the top of the carb.
Thanks,
Ryan
I messed with it some last night. I noticed the same thing about the clamp...I think that I have that cured after a little time with the vice and a BFH.
Next, how is the dizzy body supposed to line up?
The pictures I have seen of the older dizzy show the vac port faceing the front of the truck. The other day when I set the timing static and got the truck running smoothly, the vac port was faceing the PS wheel well...is this ok? I don't really like how it puts the wires so close to the block in this possition. Last night when I tried it w/the vac port faceing the front I set the oil pump shaft to #4 and the rotor towards #1 with the mark in the inspection window set to º7 BTC. However, I am getting kind of a back fire out of the top of the carb.
Thanks,
Ryan
In your picture, the hold down clamp appears to be to-blocked, ie there is no more takeup left. Therefore you need a different clamp, a bushing, or you need to modify the clamp. If you've had it out and into a vise, you can probably take a grinder to the clamping faces and get it tighter. Like Poser says, maybe a SBC clamp would be the ticket. With my PVC "bushing" the thing wollers around a little, runs fine but ruins the esthetic...you know? 
GL
Ed
GL
Ed
I makes no difference where your dist is oriented as long as it is set in on #1 and the cap/wires match that. One issue I usually have is that the vac pod on the dist wants to hit the oil filter as you turn it CCW. That usually puts the coil hot wire right next to the lifter cover, if it grounds out you stop. If this happens pull the dist and replace it with the rotor turned a bit furthur to the right while still ensuring it hits the oil pump slot which will also need to be turned a bit to get it lined up.
My reference to the small block clamp was ONLY for my, or anyone else using the DUI-HEI unit, or a HEI Chev distributor, NOT for the Toyota distributor, as the Toyota does not have a step collar that seats on the edge of the block that is 3/8" thick, and about twice as large as the distributor housing is, where it enters the block, as can be seen in this picture..
http://www.performancedistributors.com/toyotadui.htm
As has been stated, I would remove the clamp, and distributor, and figure out the material that needs to be removed from the clamp in order for it to do its job again...
Sorry if I have confused anyone with this, or any of my previous posts...
Good luck!
-Steve
http://www.performancedistributors.com/toyotadui.htm
As has been stated, I would remove the clamp, and distributor, and figure out the material that needs to be removed from the clamp in order for it to do its job again...
Sorry if I have confused anyone with this, or any of my previous posts...
Good luck!
-Steve
- Thread starter
- #27
Dang, get busy w/work and leave you guys alone for a week and all of a sudden my post is 9 pages deep! 
Anyway, here is my current dilemma. I removed the clamp, got is straitened out and it will tighten down/is working correctly now.
However, when I follow the procedure for setting static timing in the haynes manual, I can't get the truck to run correctly.
I have the mark on the flywheel set, and the oil pump shaft set aprox. at #4. When I do this, it puts the rotor in line w/either #4 or the PS fender, because the rotor is in line with the oil pump shaft. When I alter the position if the oil pump to point the rotor to #1, then all I get is flames out of the top of the carb. From there, I tried rotating the flywheel 360, but then it does nothing, just turns and turns(read: leave dizzy in, rotate to #1/flywheel mark, pull dizzy, rotate crank 360 back to flywheel mark, re-stab dizzy)
I did get it seated pointing more towards #2 than one, and it would run, but I had to feather the gas the entire time to keep it from dieing...tried just clocking it back towards #1 a little(i.e. one cam gear or so back)and nothing.
So...what am I doing wrong guys? I know that I am out of timing, because when I had it set the first time, it purred.
Oh...and please keep the "why didn't you just leave it where it was" comments to a minimum. I don't know why I messed w/it. :-[
Thanks,
Ryan
Anyway, here is my current dilemma. I removed the clamp, got is straitened out and it will tighten down/is working correctly now.
However, when I follow the procedure for setting static timing in the haynes manual, I can't get the truck to run correctly.
I have the mark on the flywheel set, and the oil pump shaft set aprox. at #4. When I do this, it puts the rotor in line w/either #4 or the PS fender, because the rotor is in line with the oil pump shaft. When I alter the position if the oil pump to point the rotor to #1, then all I get is flames out of the top of the carb. From there, I tried rotating the flywheel 360, but then it does nothing, just turns and turns(read: leave dizzy in, rotate to #1/flywheel mark, pull dizzy, rotate crank 360 back to flywheel mark, re-stab dizzy)I did get it seated pointing more towards #2 than one, and it would run, but I had to feather the gas the entire time to keep it from dieing...tried just clocking it back towards #1 a little(i.e. one cam gear or so back)and nothing.
So...what am I doing wrong guys? I know that I am out of timing, because when I had it set the first time, it purred.
Oh...and please keep the "why didn't you just leave it where it was" comments to a minimum. I don't know why I messed w/it. :-[
Thanks,
Ryan
- Thread starter
- #28
Ok guys,
I read Drew<><'s post and it simply re-iderated my thoughts/experience. After I have set the mark on the flywheel to TDC, I pulled the #1 plug to check the piston position and it is at the top of its stroke.
Why would this not work w[me=xumFJ40]following this proceedure?[/me]
Thanks,
Ryan
I read Drew<><'s post and it simply re-iderated my thoughts/experience. After I have set the mark on the flywheel to TDC, I pulled the #1 plug to check the piston position and it is at the top of its stroke.
Why would this not work w[me=xumFJ40]following this proceedure?[/me]
Thanks,
Ryan
- Thread starter
- #29
Hmmm...tried to modify that and it didn't work
You are on the right path...
Remove the distributor again. Allign the oil pump with #4 cylinder. Set the rotor before inserting into engine, just to the right a bit of #4, as inserting it will cause it to turn CCW. Verify that the dist. shaft and oil pump have mated, by doing this a few times WRONG, and then noting the difference in seated depth. This can be very frustrating, you will get it! Just do not think too much into it..otherwise you will talk yourself out of doing the correct thing..
After getting it seated, I snug the clamp up just a bit so that the dist. will not move when the engine is running, but will still move when you try and adjust it..
If it does not catch and fire up right away, you are probably 180 degrees out, in reference to the dist, not the engine. So, you will need to pull the distributor, and rotate the engine 360, and install the distributor again.
I hope that you have the wires on the cap all going to the correct locations, and that there is not something else creating an issue, as multiple issues are always fun...
Good Luck!!
-Steve
Remove the distributor again. Allign the oil pump with #4 cylinder. Set the rotor before inserting into engine, just to the right a bit of #4, as inserting it will cause it to turn CCW. Verify that the dist. shaft and oil pump have mated, by doing this a few times WRONG, and then noting the difference in seated depth. This can be very frustrating, you will get it! Just do not think too much into it..otherwise you will talk yourself out of doing the correct thing..
After getting it seated, I snug the clamp up just a bit so that the dist. will not move when the engine is running, but will still move when you try and adjust it..
If it does not catch and fire up right away, you are probably 180 degrees out, in reference to the dist, not the engine. So, you will need to pull the distributor, and rotate the engine 360, and install the distributor again.
I hope that you have the wires on the cap all going to the correct locations, and that there is not something else creating an issue, as multiple issues are always fun...
Good Luck!!
-Steve
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks again steve.
I will let y'all know.
Ryan
I will let y'all know.
Ryan
