DIY Smartphone Scan Gauge - OBD Fusion (5 Viewers)

[Artie]

I’ve been using the dashboard from @TeCKis300 but there’s been some issues with a couple gauges I assume due to differences in year models, mine is a 2021. Namely the torque converter temp and torque converter lockup. I’ve just switched to the following:

There is no A/T Oil Temp 2 but there is a 3 so I’m assuming it’s the one I want. It’s been returning temps in the negatives upon cold start then mid 100’s once driving. Towing up hill it hit 250°… is this normal behavior?

Is this the one for TC lockup? Value 0 and 1 for the gauge is how I have it set. No have not driven since making this change.

 

[prharper]

I’ve been using the dashboard from @TeCKis300 but there’s been some issues with a couple gauges I assume due to differences in year models, mine is a 2021. Namely the torque converter temp and torque converter lockup. I’ve just switched to the following:

There is no A/T Oil Temp 2 but there is a 3 so I’m assuming it’s the one I want. It’s been returning temps in the negatives upon cold start then mid 100’s once driving. Towing up hill it hit 250°… is this normal behavior?
View attachment 3007967

Is this the one for TC lockup? Value 0 and 1 for the gauge is how I have it set. No have not driven since making this change.
View attachment 3007968

I recently added this to my 2018, using @TeCKis300 and @linuxgod dashboard. Their ATF temps didn’t work for me so added PIDs for my year. Working now and along w Torque Converter and transfer case temp. Had to add my own temp range values based on theirs.

Curious on the the source of reference for temp ranges on ATF, oil, coolant etc.

 

[2HundyJTex]

Props to @TeCKis300 and @linuxgod for their dashboards. Using a VeePeak OBDCheck BLE Bluetooth scanner ($34) and OBD Fusion App ($10) for iOS, with Toyota codes upgrade as an in-app purchase for $15. Like others, for my 2018, the ECT temp values were returning no values at first, so I re-established the link with AT Oil Temperature 1 and AT Oil Temperature 3. I also needed to restablish the "Status of LockUp." Overall, resetting these three gauges was WAY easier than creating a custom dashboard. Much obliged!

 

[Artie]

I recently added this to my 2018, using @TeCKis300 and @linuxgod dashboard. Their ATF temps didn’t work for me so added PIDs for my year. Working now and along w Torque Converter and transfer case temp. Had to add my own temp range values based on theirs.

Curious on the the source of reference for temp ranges on ATF, oil, coolant etc.

I bought the package for my year with the OBDLINK app on iPhone and that’s where the ones I pictured came from, the ones I imported from the dashboard didn’t work so there just have been some changes between 2018 and 2021.

For the temps for coolant, I figure it’s like other vehicles… normal is 195-220.

I googled the rest but yeah… I’d like to know something more specific to this vehicle.

 

[linuxgod]

I’ve been using the dashboard from @TeCKis300 but there’s been some issues with a couple gauges I assume due to differences in year models, mine is a 2021. Namely the torque converter temp and torque converter lockup. I’ve just switched to the following:

There is no A/T Oil Temp 2 but there is a 3 so I’m assuming it’s the one I want. It’s been returning temps in the negatives upon cold start then mid 100’s once driving. Towing up hill it hit 250°… is this normal behavior?
View attachment 3007967

Is this the one for TC lockup? Value 0 and 1 for the gauge is how I have it set. No have not driven since making this change.
View attachment 3007968

Cold start temps should be whatever the ambient temp is. It shouldn't read negative unless it's negative outside.

250F is a pretty high A/T temp. I've only seen that when towing up a very long 10,000+' mountain pass.

I suspect something is not right.

BTW there should be two A/T temps - one is the "pan" temp and one is the "post-torque converter, pre-transmission cooler" temp. The first one moves slowly, the second moves much more quickly especially upon acceleration. Still I wouldn't expect either to exceed ~210-220F unless you're REALLY working it

 

[Artie]

Cold start temps should be whatever the ambient temp is. It shouldn't read negative unless it's negative outside.

250F is a pretty high A/T temp. I've only seen that when towing up a very long 10,000+' mountain pass.

I suspect something is not right.

BTW there should be two A/T temps - one is the "pan" temp and one is the "post-torque converter, pre-transmission cooler" temp. The first one moves slowly, the second moves much more quickly especially upon acceleration. Still I wouldn't expect either to exceed ~210-220F unless you're REALLY working it

It was a 5 mile uphill 8% grade with my 4500 pound camper at around 4500 feet altitude, it was working pretty hard. I’m running 33.7 inch tires and this was my first trip up this particular path, if it’s sucking wind this hard I may have a regear in my future, especially when compared to how my daily tows up this same hill… it doesn’t have near the load. The pan temp was pretty hot as well but I don’t recall what it was as I was more interested in the TC temp. The only choices on mine are the AT 1 and AT3 temps… I’ll be driving this vehicle tomorrow and I’ll run these gauges and report back. I thought the temps at start up should reflect ambient as well, I’ll take some pics while driving and see how they perform.

 

[Artie]

Drove today and watched the tc temp. At start up it was 20° below what ambient was but increased quickly. While driving it hovered around 100° and while in stop and go ir slow neighborhood driving it rose to 150°ish but would rapidly fall back down to 100°ish once you got moving. Pan, oil, coolant all stayed steady within a few degrees of their normal temp once they achieved their warm up temp. I feel like the AT3 PID is correct for the TC but there is just a lot more fluctuations going on than I would have thought. This may be a noob statement so I apologize if this is LC basic knowledge; I found TC temps far lower driving on secondary roads in 6th versus D. This makes sense once I thought about it…not hunting for overdrive and achieving lock just to downshift for a hill or coming to a stop.

Thanks again for putting the work in on these dashboards and sharing them!

 

[linuxgod]

It was a 5 mile uphill 8% grade with my 4500 pound camper at around 4500 feet altitude, it was working pretty hard. I’m running 33.7 inch tires and this was my first trip up this particular path, if it’s sucking wind this hard I may have a regear in my future, especially when compared to how my daily tows up this same hill… it doesn’t have near the load. The pan temp was pretty hot as well but I don’t recall what it was as I was more interested in the TC temp. The only choices on mine are the AT 1 and AT3 temps… I’ll be driving this vehicle tomorrow and I’ll run these gauges and report back. I thought the temps at start up should reflect ambient as well, I’ll take some pics while driving and see how they perform.

What gear were you in?

If that’s the case then 250F particularly at the torque converter sensor is definitely possible. I’ve only seen it close in on 250 when I went over Monarch Pass towing my 6k# trailer. The pan will slowly catch up with the TC, but if the TC goes up and down the pan is usually less than the TC sensor (and it changes slower than the TC sensor too)

 

[Artie]

What gear were you in?

If that’s the case then 250F particularly at the torque converter sensor is definitely possible. I’ve only seen it close in on 250 when I went over Monarch Pass towing my 6k# trailer. The pan will slowly catch up with the TC, but if the TC goes up and down the pan is usually less than the TC sensor (and it changes slower than the TC sensor too)

3rd for a while until it couldn’t maintain adequate speed, the it kicked down to 2nd. Keeping 40mph was not really possible… speed limit was 55, I had a stack of traffic behind me lol Also, I noticed that the gauge maxed out at 250° at that time, I’ve increased that max and will be driving that route again in a few weeks. Pic below is from the scales a couple weeks prior for a longer trip so I was heavier then and that scale weight is likely the heaviest I’ll travel at.

FWIW I’ve towed that same stretch in my 4th gen Navigator and I could pass people if I so desired, I am somewhat surprised with the LC performance. All that being said I understand the differences between the two vehicles, it’s an apples to popsicles comparison.

 

[linuxgod]

3rd for a while until it couldn’t maintain adequate speed, the it kicked down to 2nd. Keeping 40mph was not really possible… speed limit was 55, I had a stack of traffic behind me lol Also, I noticed that the gauge maxed out at 250° at that time, I’ve increased that max and will be driving that route again in a few weeks. Pic below is from the scales a couple weeks prior for a longer trip so I was heavier then and that scale weight is likely the heaviest I’ll travel at.

View attachment 3009702
FWIW I’ve towed that same stretch in my 4th gen Navigator and I could pass people if I so desired, I am somewhat surprised with the LC performance. All that being said I understand the differences between the two vehicles, it’s an apples to popsicles comparison.

I do recommend you manually use the lower gears and try to keep RPMs around 4000 or higher on passes like that. You’ll get a lot more power and it’ll actually help cool the trans better in 2nd than 3rd or 3rd instead of 4th on those slow steep passes

 

[Artie]

I do recommend you manually use the lower gears and try to keep RPMs around 4000 or higher on passes like that. You’ll get a lot more power and it’ll actually help cool the trans better in 2nd than 3rd or 3rd instead of 4th on those slow steep passes

Thanks for the tip, I’ll do this next time. Makes sense to get ahead of the situation versus making up the difference once your half way up and sucking wind.

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks for the tip, I’ll do this next time. Makes sense to get ahead of the situation versus making up the difference once your half way up and sucking wind.

Normally if you're towing you want to be in 4th gear on the 6 speed, or 6th gear on the 8 speed. Depending on the trailer load you might be able to run in +1 gear higher if you can keep the torque converter locked up, but the transmission fluid is pumped through the cooler by the engine RPMs driving it so spinning the engine faster also pumps trans fluid faster which cools it faster. When climbing mountain passes I've found dropping down a gear if possible and running high RPM will cool the transmission a bit. It'll also give you a lot more power. i.e. you'll run cooler and enjoy the climb more if you're in 2nd gear doing 40 mph and letting the engine sing at 4500-5000 RPMs than if you're in 3rd with your foot on the floor at 2500-3000 RPMs.

7500# loaded vehicle, 6000# trailer, winch bumper and terrible aero, and 34" tires and the highest I've ever seen was 249F going over Monarch Pass on my way to Ouray. ~245F is typical on those climbs for me.

I've noted this before but the A/T Temp light won't come on until you hit ~302F. It goes off at ~270F. So while 250F is definitely "warm" it seems Toyota is pretty confident that it's not damaging for you to run at that temp. Just do regular (meaning every 60k) full A/T fluid exchanges. I think the newer ATF WS fluids which are synthetic are a LOT more durable than the old dino ATF we used to run 20-30 years ago - likely the same reason why the A/T's have a thermostat which tries to run your A/T fluid at 190F+ whereas years ago that would've been seen as too hot for normal use.

 

[Artie]

Normally if you're towing you want to be in 4th gear on the 6 speed, or 6th gear on the 8 speed. Depending on the trailer load you might be able to run in +1 gear higher if you can keep the torque converter locked up, but the transmission fluid is pumped through the cooler by the engine RPMs driving it so spinning the engine faster also pumps trans fluid faster which cools it faster. When climbing mountain passes I've found dropping down a gear if possible and running high RPM will cool the transmission a bit. It'll also give you a lot more power. i.e. you'll run cooler and enjoy the climb more if you're in 2nd gear doing 40 mph and letting the engine sing at 4500-5000 RPMs than if you're in 3rd with your foot on the floor at 2500-3000 RPMs.

7500# loaded vehicle, 6000# trailer, winch bumper and terrible aero, and 34" tires and the highest I've ever seen was 249F going over Monarch Pass on my way to Ouray. ~245F is typical on those climbs for me.

I've noted this before but the A/T Temp light won't come on until you hit ~302F. It goes off at ~270F. So while 250F is definitely "warm" it seems Toyota is pretty confident that it's not damaging for you to run at that temp. Just do regular (meaning every 60k) full A/T fluid exchanges. I think the newer ATF WS fluids which are synthetic are a LOT more durable than the old dino ATF we used to run 20-30 years ago - likely the same reason why the A/T's have a thermostat which tries to run your A/T fluid at 190F+ whereas years ago that would've been seen as too hot for normal use.

I have the 8 speed and tow in 6th with the exact pwr on.

Your post does bring up a relevant to this thread question: what is the red line temps for oil and coolant, you just addressed the transmission. I assume you’d want the gauge to show yellow at 270° and red at 302° for the transmission.

 

[linuxgod]

I have the 8 speed and tow in 6th with the exact pwr on.

Your post does bring up a relevant to this thread question: what is the red line temps for oil and coolant, you just addressed the transmission. I assume you’d want the gauge to show yellow at 270° and red at 302° for the transmission.

Hard to say what "redline" is, but this is what Toyota says for both the 6 and 8 speed for the "B" sensor (What I'd call the "torque converter" sensor, which is the one that typically reads hotter and moves around a lot more). Info below is for the 8 speed (again the 6 speed info is the same except lock up is only 4th-6th gear except in the below table)... There are multiple ways to view this

1. 302F is definitely "red" and 275F is definitely "yellow". That's a sort of worst case max temp scenario, but I would not use any *higher* values at least.
2. I would say 302F is definitely "red" but perhaps 266F is "yellow" however since 266F plus a higher coolant temp (203F) can make the truck drop into a lower gear to try and move fluid faster in order to prevent getting into the 275F-302F range.
3. If you want to be conservative you might say 230F is "yellow" and 266F is "red" since if #2 above happens the recovery condition is to get the ATF under 230F and the engine coolant under 203F.

Read below - whether or not you think a lower value should be red or yellow is your call. FWIW I use 4 colors on mine so you don't have to limit yourself:

1. Green is 180F-230F
2. Yellow is 230F-266F
3. Orange is 266F-302F
4. Red is 302F-340F

For those interested apparently the sensor range is -67F to 92F, though the DTC test procedure shows you should never see a value outside of -40F to 339.8F. I'd say no point it having your "analog" OBD gauges show any numbers above or below the -40F to 340F range.

 

[Fisher23]

I am having a hard time finding the A/T Temp or Transmission Temperature.

I have the OBD Fusion and also the $9.99 additional Toyota add on.

When I select a gauge and go to change it's PID to trans temperature I can't find it.
When I search on Trans I see
Auto Trans Neutral Drive status
Manual trans neutral gear status
.
.
trans actual gear ratio

but no trans temperature?

When I search "Temp" a long list shows but no transmission temp.

I have Engine Coolant Temperature but not Trans Temp.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[grinchy]

I am having a hard time finding the A/T Temp or Transmission Temperature.

I have the OBD Fusion and also the $9.99 additional Toyota add on.

When I select a gauge and go to change it's PID to trans temperature I can't find it.
When I search on Trans I see
Auto Trans Neutral Drive status
Manual trans neutral gear status
.
.
trans actual gear ratio

but no trans temperature?

When I search "Temp" a long list shows but no transmission temp.

I have Engine Coolant Temperature but not Trans Temp.

What am I doing wrong?

toyota / lexus /scion -> Engine and Electronic Controlled Transmis . . . -> A/T Oil Temperature 1
and same path -> A/T Oil temperature 2

 

[Fisher23]

Thanks !!

... I was looking in the wrong PID for it.

Got it.

 

[Fisher23]

Sorry but I have a dumb question:

A/T Temp 1 .. is what temperature vs. A/T Temp 2?

Is 1 the torque converter and 2 the pan?

 

[BVE]

Sorry but I have a dumb question:

A/T Temp 1 .. is what temperature vs. A/T Temp 2?

Is 1 the torque converter and 2 the pan?

Other way around I think.

 

[TeCKis300]

Other way around I think.

Yes, that's how mine is.


It'll be obvious as the torque converter temp is more dynamic with it locking and unlocking.