DIY Rear Lower Control Arms (1 Viewer)

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As long as end to end length is the same (and in alignment) and the bend doesn't interfer with the frame at the bumpstop, it shouldn't matter.
 
Why not just use tube adapters at both ends?

I thought I had read that having the poly sleeve on at least one side minimizes some of the “NVH” (I think that’s the right term). Reduces the vibration or harsh transfer of road/trail surfaces to the vehicle. Race vehicles may use solid on both ends but normally not daily driven rigs.

Edit: If I understand your q properly. Now I’m not sure I do.
 
All that and you didn't opt to make them high-clearance? Lame.




J/K that's awesome and something I'll probably copy when i get around to replacing mine. Are you going to do the uppers and the transverse bar as well?

"All that"? I didn't really do much. This is a weekend project at most because you have to wait for the paint to dry.

Two reasons why no bends... first is I sold my bender a few years ago. Second is since this design is two sizes of tube with one sleeved in the other over almost the full length, there's no way to put a bend in and sleeve it. To have a bend I'd have to use JJ's at both ends of a single piece of 2" which would add $100 to the total cost and remove the shock absorbing quality of the poly bushing (vs. the JJ) for this daily driver. I could've chopped off and built new shock mounts on the axle housing to fit a larger sleeved bushing end (that would be needed for 2" tube) but there's no going back to stock or even selling these links if I wanted to later on. I could've also gone with smaller/weaker tube for the whole thing and then put a bend in it but for me, this design fits the bill. I'd love to see someone DIY some high clearance links though.

Was gonna do uppers too but not really necessary since the vibration is gone.
 
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