Distributor Not Seating

[Rock40]

I also used a long screwdriver to align the slot, but do you align it with the distributor before it's being pushed down or do you guess where it's going to end up because it rotates slightly when installed? thanks much

You need to align it and anticipate how the rotor/distributor will turn as it begins to mesh with the cam gear. It takes a bit of trial and error but is not hard once you get the hang of it. The distributor will either fall right down and bottom out as it should...or it won't. If it doesn't work, adjust the clocking on the oil pump a bit.

 

[Pighead]

You need to know some Japanese swear words...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

#{Toyota!!!

 

[KY Longhunter]

having taken this advice, it works!

X2 - I just accomplished it, this weekend !

 

[SteveH]

Seating the distributor is like loosening stubborn cone washers on Toyotas - the more irritated you get, the slower it goes. Be patient. Have another sip from that beer on the work bench and then go back to it and try again.

 

[DMully]

Success! I followed all of the good tips I received in this forum and the old rust bucket fired right up! Thank you all for your help!

For future newbies like myself, I'm going to summarize how I seated the distributor and set the timing. Feel free to correct me as will likely post something wrong, in the wrong order, or miss something completely (disclaimer).

First, I think I actually had the distributor seated several times but I thought it wasn't seated because the new style distributor clamp is much shorter than the original. Therefore, there will be a small gap between the bottom of the distributor and the clamp (see pics for comparison). I will essentially repeat all that you've told me in these forums...

My steps (this is when you haven't marked where the rotor and distributor should be set):

1. Buy a $18 remote starter. It's worth every penny. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVU8MK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2. Remote spark plug from #1 cylinder and remove the coil wire from the distributor cap (so it can't start).

3. Cover the #1 cylinder with your finger and use the remote starter to find TDC (top dead center). Your finger will be pushed off on the compression stroke. At this point, the BB should be close to the BB. Careful not to go past it. Move the fan to make small adjustments until you align the market with the BB (this is 7 degrees BTDC - before top dead center). I used white paint to mark the timing marker and the BB so it was easier to read, especially when timing.

4. Remote the distributor and find the slot in the oil pump at the bottom. Use a long screwdriver to align it around 11 o'clock as you're looking down on the distributor towards the block.

5. Bolt the distributor clamp to block. Add oil to the distributor shaft, gear, oil ring, etc.

6. Align the distributor shaft so that the bottom blade of the distributor is slightly to the right of the oil pump slot at bottom. Push the distributor in and it will rotate into the slot.

7. If the distributor doesn't seat all the way, press down slightly on the distributor shaft (remove the cap and rotor) and give the remote starter a small bump. You should feel the distributor drop down into the oil pump slot, if it wasn't already seated.

8. I went back to step #3 so that the timing marker was pointing at the BB again. I then rotated the distributor until the points began to open and then I verified that the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap (essentially pointing to the #4 cylinder).

9. After I had the timing marker at the BB, the distributor seated, the points opening slightly, and the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap (pointing towards #4 cylinder), I replaced the spark plug, coil wire, and put the distr cap back on. I slightly tighted the distr clamp but left it loose enough that I could still adjust it during timing.

10. Pull the trigger on the remote starter (with the key in the ignition on) and pray she starts! Once started, use a timing light to ensure that the BB is still at the timing marker at idle. If the marks are not aligned, make small rotations of the distributor until the BB and marker are aligned.

11. Once the marker and BB are aligned via a timing light, tighten down the distributor clamp and go have a beer. Good luck!

 

[Boaf 32]

Congrats, now the fun begins.

Boaf

 

[fj40ingkc]

I've read through the posts regarding how to set the timing. I have the flywheel indicator at the BB but after numerous attempts, I still don't think my distributor it fully seated into the oil pump groove. I've used a screwdriver to align the slot in the oil pump so that when I twist the dizzy in, it has a chance to seat.

Am I correct that this distributor is not fully seated in the oil pump slot and that it has at least another 1/4" to drop?

I read on a thread that you can push down on the distributor while someone cranks the engine and it will seat. Since I'm working on it solo, I haven't tried that yet. Any other suggestions?

Thanks much...

1972 FJ40

View attachment 1662984

I am also getting this GAP... not sure why. it does not appear to be rotating fully when in TDC, rotating to position in manual it says it should complete the turn. so i dont Think it is fully seated but i did notice an audible change when tapping gentrly with tape covered brass piece on the distribur shaft. it seems to have stopped and sounds like its bottomed out. I rotated the oil pump with screwdriver as mentioned to correct position so that it aligned when distirbuor was rotating moving downward... it was noticeable stopped higher up when the alignment of the pump wasnt quite correct. also fully greased the new o-ringand and oiled shaft cam shaft gear. the clamp is the same on mine as it originally was....unlike @DMully above. does this look to be fully seated in your experience? dfa any suggestion would be great. thanks!

 

[fj40ingkc]

I am also getting this GAP... not sure why. it does not appear to be rotating fully when in TDC, rotating to position in manual it says it should complete the turn. so i dont Think it is fully seated but i did notice an audible change when tapping gentrly with tape covered brass piece on the distribur shaft. it seems to have stopped and sounds like its bottomed out. I rotated the oil pump with screwdriver as mentioned to correct position so that it aligned when distirbuor was rotating moving downward... it was noticeable stopped higher up when the alignment of the pump wasnt quite correct. also fully greased the new o-ringand and oiled shaft cam shaft gear. the clamp is the same on mine as it originally was....unlike @DMully above. does this look to be fully seated in your experience? dfa any suggestion would be great. thanks!
View attachment 3230233

I also measured with a caliper the depth of from bottom of oil pump slot, to block. and then the distance from tip of distributor shaft to base of clamp. they are basically the same at 123.75 and 125mm,,, the 1.25 mm may be becuase measuring to the clamp vs to the edge or limiting seat on the distributor. ... see pics below:

 

[KY Longhunter]

Instructions I got from fellow mudder that worked…..

Ok. What you need to do- and it scared the s*** out of me when first suggested.

Put cap back on distributor with lead disconnected from coil. Push down firmly on distributor cap from passenger side. Stand on tire if you have to.

Now, have someone bump the starter from ignition (or yourself with a jumpstart switch)

(Make sure dizzy unplugged from coil!)

While pushing down hard on the dizzy, uou should feel dizzy drop and hear an audible thunk!

Voila! your distributor is now seated.

 

[fj40ingkc]

Instructions I got from fellow mudder that worked…..

Ok. What you need to do- and it scared the s*** out of me when first suggested.

Put cap back on distributor with lead disconnected from coil. Push down firmly on distributor cap from passenger side. Stand on tire if you have to.

Now, have someone bump the starter from ignition (or yourself with a jumpstart switch)

(Make sure dizzy unplugged from coil!)

While pushing down hard on the dizzy, uou should feel dizzy drop and hear an audible thunk!

Voila! your distributor is now seated.

@KY Longhunter whelp i like the idea. engine is out of the vehicle at the moment but ill turn it over by hand. its at TDC currently. seems to be in oil pump but by my calculations its 4.5mm from seating fully. i looked back at the blurry pics a few years back when i was taking the same distributor out of the block and appears to be fully seated then without a gap. only difference is theres a new oil pump, i measured old vs new as best i could.. ( i didnt build the shortblock when being rebuilt, was professionally done) and i am not sure if htere was a spacer or something between block and oil pump mounting surface, likely just a gasket. thats the only thing i can think of but even with that the above measurements show it should fit if aligned. ok well ill turn the block over. ... will write back shortly with results

 

[Boaf 32]

I am also getting this GAP... not sure why. it does not appear to be rotating fully when in TDC, rotating to position in manual it says it should complete the turn. so i dont Think it is fully seated but i did notice an audible change when tapping gentrly with tape covered brass piece on the distribur shaft. it seems to have stopped and sounds like its bottomed out. I rotated the oil pump with screwdriver as mentioned to correct position so that it aligned when distirbuor was rotating moving downward... it was noticeable stopped higher up when the alignment of the pump wasnt quite correct. also fully greased the new o-ringand and oiled shaft cam shaft gear. the clamp is the same on mine as it originally was....unlike @DMully above. does this look to be fully seated in your experience? dfa any suggestion would be great. thanks!
View attachment 3230233

No not seated. The washer on the lock nut is under the ring. take out the washer, cut a piece off so it seats fully. if not, it will eventually leak and the shaft will wear early/ Just from experience.

Bob

 

[fj40ingkc]

No not seated. The washer on the lock nut is under the ring. take out the washer, cut a piece off so it seats fully. if not, it will eventually leak and the shaft will wear early/ Just from experience.

Bob

Thanks bob @Boaf 32 , I don’t think that is the issue see pic below washer not interfering as far as I can tell:

 

[pb4ugo]

Instructions I got from fellow mudder that worked…..

Ok. What you need to do- and it scared the s*** out of me when first suggested.

Put cap back on distributor with lead disconnected from coil. Push down firmly on distributor cap from passenger side. Stand on tire if you have to.

Now, have someone bump the starter from ignition (or yourself with a jumpstart switch)

(Make sure dizzy unplugged from coil!)

While pushing down hard on the dizzy, uou should feel dizzy drop and hear an audible thunk!

Voila! your distributor is now seated.

This is how you typically seat the dist in a SBC. It shouldn't take a lot of pressure at all. It should just drop in. If too much pressure you will be spinning the pump and it wont seat.

 

[fj40ingkc]

Thanks bob, I don’t think that is the issue see pic below washer not interfering as far as I can tell:

View attachment 3230270

I did some more measuring,,, the distributor is bottoming out on the distributor's collar below the gear, is bottoming out on the top of the oil pump case, so it cant go any further. ill have to check another 2f that is cleaned up to see if they all do this otherwise ill have to take out the oil pump and see if somethings off with it as the distributor didn't change, only the pump

 

[KY Longhunter]

BTW I'm running a Large Cap Electronic Dizzy

 

[fj40ingkc]

BTW I'm running a Large Cap Electronic Dizzy

dizzy I now realize is distributor. Makes sense

 

[KY Longhunter]

I remember when I first joined ih8mud and asked how to remove flywheel. Somebody suggested I use a BFH.

I scratched my head for hours before I finally gave up and asked "what is a BFH?" Response, "big effing hammer!"

 

[Steamer]

When in doubt about dizzy seating, I like Mark's (65swb45) method. Turn the pump slot to where you know the dizzy shaft tip will not enter the slot. Insert the dizzy until it bottoms out. Observe the gap between the block and dizzy. Now you know what "Not Seated" looks/feels like. Rotate the pump and keep trying till it goes in another roughly 3/8" deeper.

 

[fj40ingkc]

Good point I’ll try that again, measuring difference