Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I can confirm that the rear swingarms come off in less than 5 minutes.

1) remove both bump stops
2) remove gas strut
3) remove Inner two 7/16" bolts, close arm
4) remove outer 2 7/16" bolts and lift arm out of bumper.

Center section had to come out to install the trailer plug (dust cap has to be removed from the back of the harness) and parking sensors. I let the kids tag the cross member while it was all opened up.... hope they don't grow up to be truants...

6837A497-D113-46DD-8DC6-A5B04D03F5F6.jpeg


666F0462-5120-47E2-A5CA-60AEBA65F159.jpeg
 
I'm planning on having it painted to match my vehicle. I don't know if it's just the powder coater I used, but I had some bumpers powder coated to match a white vehicle and the whites didn't match very well. I'm leary of trying to get a metallic silver matched with powder, so I'm planning to just go with paint.

I just posted the rear instructions to the beginning of the thread.
Make sure you don't have the Swing arm strike pads painted. They are stainless steel and will get rubbed/scratched if you paint them.
 
This is the front bumper I wanted to go with. The lack of hoops for animal strikes makes it a non starter for me.
 
I decided to swap my swing arms for 3 reasons: weight distribution, visibility, and hi-lift jack mount

1) surprisingly, the table side weighs only 4lbs more than my ladder/accessory side. However, the tire/wheels weighs a freaking 100lbs. This should balance out the passenger side since it has the stock gas tank.
2) my rear view camera was still usable with the ladder on the driver's side, but having the ladder on the passenger will be better for over the shoulder blind spot checks.
3) the hi-lift jack mounts are specific to left/right due to the tire carrier. I may throw up one of these to go along with my red/black color scheme.


It took exactly 20 minutes to unbolt and swap the sides, and lifting the tire back up solo almost gave me a hernia 😂. Modular is cool!

F42B813E-FD3F-4362-B5FD-453723849607.jpeg


D3F8CA66-BD41-4F98-AB80-6AA434350966.jpeg


 
Last edited:
Huge thanks to @radman for this thread and putting together the instructions linked in the 1st post.

I'll be installing Dissent's rear bumper on my '17 Land Cruiser with no swing outs. I test fit the bumper over the weekend to see if I wanted to make any changes before having the bumper painted. With radman's instructions, it was surprisingly easy to install. I don't have AHC or swingouts, and I didn't do any wiring. I just bolted up the bumper and trimmed some plastic fender pieces (sourced from a junkyard) in about 2.5 hours with my father helping me.

Since I'm not going to run any swingouts, I'm going to have the pockets (circled in red) filled out with aluminum so they follow the lines of the bumper and meet up with the plastic fender trim.

Once the pockets are filled in, I'll add Rigid Ignite flush mount reverse lights in the area that is filled. I'm planning to have all the mounting brackets powder coated black and the outer bumper pieces painted silver to match my vehicle.

The rear bumper cover (source piece for plastic trim on corners) I sourced from a junkyard is in worse shape than I had hoped, so I ordered a new one. My original bumper cover is already cut for a different aftermarket bumper and I can't reuse it for the Dissent bumper.

IMG_0877.jpg


IMG_0881.jpg
 
Huge thanks to @radman for this thread and putting together the instructions linked in the 1st post.

I'll be installing Dissent's rear bumper on my '17 Land Cruiser with no swing outs. I test fit the bumper over the weekend to see if I wanted to make any changes before having the bumper painted. With radman's instructions, it was surprisingly easy to install. I don't have AHC or swingouts, and I didn't do any wiring. I just bolted up the bumper and trimmed some plastic fender pieces (sourced from a junkyard) in about 2.5 hours with my father helping me.

Since I'm not going to run any swingouts, I'm going to have the pockets (circled in red) filled out with aluminum so they follow the lines of the bumper and meet up with the plastic fender trim.

Once the pockets are filled in, I'll add Rigid Ignite flush mount reverse lights in the area that is filled. I'm planning to have all the mounting brackets powder coated black and the outer bumper pieces painted silver to match my vehicle.

The rear bumper cover (source piece for plastic trim on corners) I sourced from a junkyard is in worse shape than I had hoped, so I ordered a new one. My original bumper cover is already cut for a different aftermarket bumper and I can't reuse it for the Dissent bumper.

View attachment 2399357

View attachment 2399358
Im just impressed you found a rear bumper in a junkyard.
 
@bemerritt @RET2,
I found it on car-part.com. I don't remember which junk yard it came from. With the middle section cut out of the bumper cover, it ships in a much smaller box, so I thought I would save money versus buying new since shipping is $100+ on a new bumper cover. The junkyard pieces are in much worse shape than I anticipated and I'm afraid they won't paint nicely, so I just ordered a new bumper cover and will start over on that part.

I just dropped the outer aluminum sections of the Dissent rear bumper with a welder and the mounting brackets for powder coating. Both said they should be ready end of this week or early next week. Once welding is done I'll take the bumper for paint. Hopefully I can find a paint shop that works that fast. The last bumpers I had painted took 6 weeks.
 
Swingout pockets filled in and reverse lights added. I'll pick up my new rear bumper cover on Thursday then it's off to paint. The mounting brackets are now powder coated matte black, but I didn't take any pictures.

My bumper didn't have the tabs for the bolts that thread into the trailer hitch, so I had the welder add material there. I'll drill it after paint since I'm too lazy to mount the bumper again just to drill those holes.

IMG_0918.jpg


IMG_0919.jpg


IMG_0920.jpg
 
Nice! Did you get the RoadVision lights for the rectangle cutouts?
 
Nice! Did you get the RoadVision lights for the rectangle cutouts?

I did. Ben sent them with the bumper.

I also ordered a new trailer plug harness from Toyota (my plug has scraped the ground on some trails so it's a little mangled) and the Curt 2-to-3 wire tail light converter, so I can hopefully have the RoadVision and reverse lights wired into the harness before I start on the bumper.

Here are the parts I've ordered for the lights:
Curt 2-to-3 wire converter
OEM trailer hitch plug and wire harness
Part NumberPart Name
82169-60080Wire Frame No.3
Reverse lights
Amazon product ASIN B01HJ4G9QI

I was just re-reading your instructions and realized I didn't check the hole sizes for the backup sensors. I'll want to get those drilled out (if needed) before getting the bumper painted.
 

sweet! So you just wanted a lot of backuplight or just wanted to put something in those new areas?

Yea, I think there were around 3 different sizes of sonar sensors. I had to drill out a lot to make mine fit.
 
I mainly wanted something in those areas.

I considered the Rigid Dually lights which I have in my current rear bumper, but they're too bright in an urban setting, so I rarely use them. I'm not sure how bright the RoadVision backup lights are, but want something better than OEM and not bright enough to blind others. I haven't seen the Ignite lights in action, but the lenses look like they'll do a good job of diffusing the light. I'll put the Ignite lights on the 3 way switch I currently use on the Dually lights (on, off, on in reverse) so I can leave them on when desired.
 
Just throwing an idea out, but if you're considering a switch controller at all, particularly SwitchPros, they have the ability to dim light outputs. As I do a lot of night camping, overly bright lights are blinding for night vision. Really like the ability to dim on demand.
 
Here are the steps for relocating the stock camera with the Dissent relocation kit:

- Remove all the hatch plastics.
- remove stock camera and install Dissent blank plate.
- fish new wire to be used for camera relo. I had some Cat6 24awg stranded cable on hand. You can run 48v Cameras and Access points through that stuff. Should be good enough for this...

D8FA7163-CD57-4956-AC0E-24AB12EDFAC4.jpeg


5CEE755E-8B37-48E4-9DC2-5A1305762B5F.jpeg


5034A550-D40D-4A4C-A405-8F87CD3A6487.jpeg


D3D29FCE-4889-452E-8A7A-729FA6FCF85F.jpeg


C90CBF75-1E3F-4BAC-AAD5-22D75B67B15B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Houston temps dropped from 104 down to 89, so I figured it would be a good time to finally relocate the stock rear camera.

Also took the opportunity to run a wire for an additional rear camera that @BloggerL recommended. I've had my eye on a similar system for a while for recording maniac Houston drivers, but also like the higher view that I'll get since stock is dropping so low.

- Remove all the hatch plastics.
- remove stock camera and install Dissent blank plate.
- fish new wire to be used for camera relo. I had some Cat6 24awg stranded cable on hand. You can run 48v Cameras and Access points through that stuff. Should be good enough for this...

View attachment 2447929

View attachment 2447930

View attachment 2447931

View attachment 2447932

View attachment 2447933
That's a nice little plate that Dissent provides. I just cut a piece of 3M black vinyl wrap and stuck it there to block the hole.
 
-fished the cable down the left side panels and passed through the existing rubber grommet to get below the rig and to the center of the bumper.

-used these fancy heat shrink/solder all-in-one connectors to reattach the stock connector, and I've been really happy with them.

-install fancy bracket and top cover and voila.

- the last picture gives you an idea of the stock coverage vs bottom of the Pormido camera system.


TICONN 150PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice (150PCS) Amazon product ASIN B07HCNTZ2Z


3F74D0E8-5E00-4BA2-8AFF-F150A189BED5.jpeg


58297352-3BDF-4C81-B29D-FA0D2F172E76.jpeg


45B5BA90-0CA8-43FC-B0D8-4254B1B87687.jpeg
 
I installed my Dissent rear bumper (no swingouts) for the 3rd, and hopefully final, time this weekend.

I had a little trouble with the RoadVision lights. I originally pulled all inputs off the trailer plug. When I connected the RoadVision lights my tail OEM tail lights would flicker with the vehicle off. First I tried removing the RoadVision ground from the trailer plug to a bolt on the body. That didn't solve the flicker. I then removed the brake input (big blue wire on trailer plug) and that stopped the flickering. I left the the turn signals, running lights, and backup lights connected to the trailer plug. I don't have the brake lights connected, but now the RoadVision lights function correctly sans brake lights.

Has anyone come up with a solution to seal the gaps behind the rear tires pictured here:
IMG_0997.jpg
IMG_0996.jpg


Full Views:
IMG_0997.jpg
IMG_0996.jpg
IMG_0994.jpg
IMG_0995.jpg
IMG_0998.jpg
 
Looks great!

were you using the light converter?

I plan on cutting the stock flaps and reattaching them to cover those areas. That should be the last bits of this how-to....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom