Disc brake steelie question

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Aug 9, 2007
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Reading, MA
I have a 71 with drums all around and stock steelies. If I go to discs up front what are my options for front rims? Is there a matching disc rim?

Here's what I have...

stocksteelies.jpg
 
pickup 76-79 disc brake wheels, for all 5 wheels

Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. I really want to keep the stock look. Off to the parts wanted section...
 
Have you looked to see if you have the rivited (early to 8/75)or welded (9/75 and on) wheels?
 
They should be early riveted rims. Can you tell by looking at this close up, or is its some you need to take the tire off to see?

steeliecloseup.jpg
 
Have you looked to see if you have the rivited (early to 8/75)or welded (9/75 and on) wheels?


I would check before you go buying more rims. I have had rims from an FJ40 that were datecoded(yes, there are stamped datecodes on the wheels) in mid '73 that were welded style, and fit with discs. pull one off, check to see if its riveted or welded and maybe you wont have to buy more wheels.
 
I would check before you go buying more rims. I have had rims from an FJ40 that were datecoded(yes, there are stamped datecodes on the wheels) in mid '73 that were welded style, and fit with discs. pull one off, check to see if its riveted or welded and maybe you wont have to buy more wheels.

How can I tell?
 
How can I tell?

Take the wheel off the rig and look on the back side. The center section will either be welded or riveted to the outer section.

:cheers:
 
If they are riveted, you could always weld them up and then knock the rivets out.

I always wondered about that. You could just grind the tops of the rivets flat...

Just make sure your welding is up to snuff. You don't want your outer popping off your inner. Or something like that...

:cheers:
 
If they are riveted, you could always weld them up and then knock the rivets out.

The rivets are NOT what causes the rims not to clear. There is a subsection of the back of the rim that tapers in sooner on the riveted rims than on the welded ones. The tapered area of the rim is what hits the caliper.
 
I've got some made in 1974 that fit discs (welded).

I quickly checked my spare last night and it is a welded rim with a 74 date code.
 
The rivets are NOT what causes the rims not to clear. There is a subsection of the back of the rim that tapers in sooner on the riveted rims than on the welded ones. The tapered area of the rim is what hits the caliper.

Good to know, thanks Mark! Seemed almost too easy. :whoops::D
 
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