Disable the EGR system the (mostly) Toyota way (4 Viewers)

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Hi all.

Tired with CEL, dive again in the EGR, and get in touch with this interesting search of the correct resistor value.
As I'm an EE, Almost read the entire thread, and a thought came up in my mind; why substituing the temp sensor with a resistor? It would be easier to plug a 5-50* kOhm resistor IN PARALELL with the sensor, as it will rise (even with shut EGR) by engine admission block temperature, but combination of both will always show coherent working EGR flow values. Wouldn't it?

* It's just a guess, tomorrow I will start calculating this.
 
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Dude hasn't been on here since 09-04-12.

His point may or may not be valid. I'd really have to look at the schematic to tell, but I know someone who would know. I'll ask them in a minute here and see what they say.

Either way, the system is looking for a value across the contacts. It doesn't really matter how you give it to it - but if you have the EGR system hooked up still, there's a possibility it's going to still be doing the job it was designed to do. So my vote is: if you don't want to fix it, rip it out.
 
What's the bolt size/pattern to plug the EGR Temp Sensor hole?
 
At the risk of resurfacing an old thread/controversy, I wish to contribute my "experiment" as the next best logical "mostly Toyota" way to disable EGR for OBD1 FZJ80s. (Sorry OBD deucers...your truck is so new and modern that my caveman self is unable to help.)

As of sometime this year, P/N 82824-35020 (the connector in Ebag's first picture) is unobtanium, e.g. discontinued.

How's an OEM-loving person to deal with that? (other than finding that part in a yard or raiding someone's parts hoard?)

Well, we obviously all have done our CDL switches, right? What did you do with the connector you removed to plug in the CDL switch? Personally, I removed the loop wire from mine and use it to pull OBD1 codes (a "paperclip" as it were). But I found another loop connector a month or two ago in another yard...so with my second yellow wire...I give you, how to bypass your EGR temp sensor, the "RETURN OF THE SON OF THE TOYOTA WAY."

First, turn all of your EGR vac lines back on themselves or cap them.
Second, disconnect your temp sensor. If you want to pull it and replace it with a bolt, that's fine. I didn't, mostly because I don't have a 14mm crescent wrench. :hillbilly:
Third, with a terminal (or dental) pick in hand, have a look at the temp sensor connector. Should be male connectors. Use the terminal pick to pull up the lock and remove the plastic connector from the wire terminals.
Fourth, wrap the wire terminals in electrical or heat tape.
Fifth, stick your spare yellow loop wire into the now-empty temp sensor connector. Don't forget to use your (stolen) dental pick to close the connector properly! Shove the excess yellow wire into the slot on the back of the connector to keep it out of the way (see photos).
Sixth, pop that loopback connector on the wiring harness.
Seventh, zip-tie the taped terminals from the sensor to the loopback connector. If you do it right, it should keep the connectors away from parts that get hot. See photos below.
Eighth, drink yourself a beer, you're done.

If I was going to do this again, I'd grab another temp sensor connector at a yard so I could more easily switch between a functional EGR and a non-functional one (and avoid picking apart my own temp sensor connector/taping the terminals). Using a spare connector housing would be a better method for those subject to emissions testing, for instance.

YMMV - and please don't drive on any federal highways once you've done this mod, you illegal naughty persons you. :flipoff2:

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I did the EGR delete on my 94 and thought I would update the thread with some things I noticed afterward. I wasn't expecting all the things it changed/fixed but...

I dove into this first with the thought of replacing the EGR system, cleaning the intake plenum while doing so. But after reading through all these I decided to go with the EGR delete. Plus the $250 EGR valve price helped persuade me. I was getting a P071 code for the EGR system and a rough low idle. It would also die sometimes unless I held my foot on the gas.

After cleaning the intake, blocking off where the EGR valve was and the vacuum lines and also shorting the temp sensor wire to itself I found that it improved a lot of issues with my Land Cruiser. For one thing it now idles great and runs great.

What it also got rid of was a valve like chatter or rattle I started to get on light acceleration. That went away. It also used to knock briefly at startup, like a second then gone. It now does not knock at startup. So far no codes. Time will tell...

Only other thing I changed during this process was I put a new fuel filter on. I was not expecting this work to take care of those other issues but was presently surprised to find them gone after the work was done.
 
kybishop said:
I did the EGR delete on my 94 and thought I would update the thread with some things I noticed afterward. I wasn't expecting all the things it changed/fixed but...

I dove into this first with the thought of replacing the EGR system, cleaning the intake plenum while doing so. But after reading through all these I decided to go with the EGR delete. Plus the $250 EGR valve price helped persuade me. I was getting a P071 code for the EGR system and a rough low idle. It would also die sometimes unless I held my foot on the gas.

After cleaning the intake, blocking off where the EGR valve was and the vacuum lines and also shorting the temp sensor wire to itself I found that it improved a lot of issues with my Land Cruiser. For one thing it now idles great and runs great.

What it also got rid of was a valve like chatter or rattle I started to get on light acceleration. That went away. It also used to knock briefly at startup, like a second then gone. It now does not knock at startup. So far no codes. Time will tell...

Only other thing I changed during this process was I put a new fuel filter on. I was not expecting this work to take care of those other issues but was presently surprised to find them gone after the work was done.
Click to expand...
Do you have pictures of what you did?
 
tampacruiser95 said:
Do you have pictures of what you did?
Click to expand...

Yes, I do have a couple. After more miles of driving I still don't have a code but have had a brief loping idle here and there. Not very often. I am in need of some valve seal work though. I am consuming a lot of oil. Like a quart in 150 miles was my last check. And it is not smoking much, pushing it up out of the intake at the throttle body.

But, back to the EGR delete pictures. One before I crimped the temp sensor plug and one after. Primitive and simple but it works. I was going to put the liquid tape on it as I like it better but I couldn't find mine. I was not able to get solder to take to the wires so I crimped it with an electrical connection and wrapped it in electrical tape.

You can see the square headed plug on the tube of the old EGR valve. I had the machine shop just cut the old bad EGR valve off and tap a thread for a plug in it. Bought a plug at a hardware shop.

The block off is a simple aluminum plate cut to size using the old EGR valve as a template. It is thick aluminum.

A little valve chatter still every once in a while but like I mentioned, pretty sure I am in need of some valve work, seals etc. My air intake tube is bad as well and I taped it up with some aluminum duct tape. The oil is pushing up out through it. I have a newer PCV valve so pretty sure it must be my valve seat seals. You can see the oil on my valve cover where it has been running out of the air intake.

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100_9533.JPG
 
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kybishop said:
Yes, I do have a couple. After more miles of driving I still don't have a code but have had a brief loping idle here and there. Not very often. I am in need of some valve seal work though. I am consuming a lot of oil. Like a quart in 150 miles was my last check. And it is not smoking much, pushing it up out of the intake at the throttle body.

But, back to the EGR delete pictures. One before I crimped the temp sensor plug and one after. Primitive and simple but it works. I was going to put the liquid tape on it as I like it better but I couldn't find mine. I was not able to get solder to take to the wires so I crimped it with an electrical connection and wrapped it in electrical tape.

You can see the square headed plug on the tube of the old EGR valve. I had the machine shop just cut the old bad EGR valve off and tap a thread for a plug in it. Bought a plug at a hardware shop.

The block off is a simple aluminum plate cut to size using the old EGR valve as a template. It is thick aluminum.

A little valve chatter still every once in a while but like I mentioned, pretty sure I am in need of some valve work, seals etc. My air intake tube is bad as well and I taped it up with some aluminum duct tape. The oil is pushing up out through it. I have a newer PCV valve so pretty sure it must be my valve seat seals. You can see the oil on my valve cover where it has been running out of the air intake.

View attachment 1326478

View attachment 1326479

View attachment 1326480
Click to expand...
Okay thank you. I am thinking of doing this and the pics are helpful.
 
I removed the upper intake plenum to clean it out but it was not that dirty. I have more pictures of removing these things if needed. The only place the plenum was real dirty was at the EGR valve connection that I blocked off in the picture. It was completely clogged with carbon. Since I blocked it anyway it probably didn't matter if I cleaned it ore not. But I did. There are some tough bolts to get to but once you figure out how to reach them it is not terribly bad. The big fitting on the EGR tube is a bit rough. You have to have a big wrench on it and then very limited room to turn it. Removing the bolt behind it as mentioned earlier in this thread is very helpful in giving you more room to get a wrench on the tube fitting.

Good luck. I am 48 years old and although not 'old' by any means I am not near as agile or strong as I was in my 20's. Still in good shape but sitting all compressed in the engine compartment for extended times does a number on the old bones. Got to get out and stretch now and then.

If you have wrenched a bit before and have some decent tools you can do this. This thread and forum is great for getting us through these things.
 
This thread got a little hard to follow wether people were talking about OBDI or OBDII systems. But in attempt to not start a new thread and get the obligatory "use the search bar" comment I'm attempting to bring this one back to life. I recently popped a 401 code. Did some research here and decided to throw a resistor in there. So last night I put a 4.7kohm 1/4w on the temp sensor like so in to my 97 OBD2 system
IMG_0044.JPG
(Red circle is the resistor in heat shrink)

I then "cleared" the 401 code by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting. I got 16 miles and got the CEL again.

So my questions are: did I use the correct resistor for an OBD2? And is disconnecting the batter sufficient to clear the code?

I have only had this cruiser for about a year and am still learning. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I usually suggest to anyone with an OBDII vehicle who is interested in knowing just a little more than the front page of the owner's manual, to pick up an OBDII code reader. Nothing fancy, just something that will pull codes and allow you to clear them. Get the code, look it up online/in repair manual, fix, clear and continue on your way.

Having said that. Disconnecting the battery doesn't always clear codes from the ECU's memory. Usually you'll need to bleed off the remaining power somehow or leave the battery disconnected for a while. Some vehicles will need to have the ECU fuse pulled in conjunction with disconnecting the negative terminal.
 
PolarRunner said:
I usually suggest to anyone with an OBDII vehicle who is interested in knowing just a little more than the front page of the owner's manual, to pick up an OBDII code reader. Nothing fancy, just something that will pull codes and allow you to clear them. Get the code, look it up online/in repair manual, fix, clear and continue on your way.

Having said that. Disconnecting the battery doesn't always clear codes from the ECU's memory. Usually you'll need to bleed off the remaining power somehow or leave the battery disconnected for a while. Some vehicles will need to have the ECU fuse pulled in conjunction with disconnecting the negative terminal.
Click to expand...
Thanks! It is on my list of things to get. A buddy of mine at work is lending one to me tonight. Hopefully that's all the issue is.
 
I just finished deleting my EGR. I built two block off plates, one for the intake and one for the block. I looped the vacuum line on the intake manifold and plugged the additional vacuum line with part of a metal rod. The last step was adding the 4.7K Ohm resistor. I initially tried to save the temp sensor but in the end got tired of messing with it and cut the wires. Last step was covering the resistor and wires with hot glue.
18160884_199755400534445_4152592780859801600_n.jpg
 
PolarRunner said:
I usually suggest to anyone with an OBDII vehicle who is interested in knowing just a little more than the front page of the owner's manual, to pick up an OBDII code reader. Nothing fancy, just something that will pull codes and allow you to clear them. Get the code, look it up online/in repair manual, fix, clear and continue on your way.

Having said that. Disconnecting the battery doesn't always clear codes from the ECU's memory. Usually you'll need to bleed off the remaining power somehow or leave the battery disconnected for a while. Some vehicles will need to have the ECU fuse pulled in conjunction with disconnecting the negative terminal.
Click to expand...
So I cleared it with code scanner and got 37 miles before it popped back on. When I get home from work today I'm going to test the resistance again but it was 4.7 when I plugged it in.
 
What are folks doing with the line that goes to the charcoal canister, capping it?
 
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