- Thread starter
- #141
I would imagine a lot of it is private property.
DIRTBIKEUSA’s Alaska Cruiser build thread
- Thread starter DIRTBIKEUSA
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- Thread starter
- #142
Swapped out the 80amp to the new 180 amp alt.
Took about an hour. It was much easier getting the belts on with the smaller pulley.
Took about an hour. It was much easier getting the belts on with the smaller pulley.
Exiled
SILVER Star
You might want to think about a metal strap/tie-down for the jerry can so you don't have to worry about it walking away during a short stop somewhere.
Does anyone know part #'s for different size pulley's?
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- #145
New side window trim seals/wipers. They showed up from eBay and were actually OEM Toyota/lexus as advertised. Fit perfectly and they smelled brand new! All chemical! Sometimes you strike gold. lol!
Also swapped out the driver side mirror. It was held folded out with a screw because the sling mechanism was broken.
Also swapped out the driver side mirror. It was held folded out with a screw because the sling mechanism was broken.
I should probably do this on mine. Any pics or instructions on the install?
- Thread starter
- #147
Ya I know I Should have taken some.
Tools: 10mm socket wrench
Plastic trim pry tool
Small needle nose pliers
Wet towel
Roll down windows completely. Open doors.
The Front door seals require you to remove one screw at the rear of the door on the inside.. and remove the mirrors temporarily to pop them out with a flat plastic pry tool.
The clips come out with the trim. If they don’t you can pull them out with a small needle nose. The rear door wipers and sliding window trim has no metal hardware and pop straight up and out. Now use the wet towel to wipe down where under the trim allowed dirt to collect.
To install the new trim comes with new clips already installed. The clip slides into the outer door skin in individual slots between the window glass and outer door skin. Make sure they are lined up and press down firmly. You should hear the trim clip click.
It’s a super easy install.
I really need to take more pictures. I’m a trade mechanic so I get caught up doing it quick so I can move on.
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I replaced mine recently - it feels nice to clean up the little details.
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- #149
I do not.
- Thread starter
- #150
If you look closer you can see the Jerry can is supported on either side. To secure completely would just wrap a ratchet strap around it when I need the extra fuel. Right now it’s empty, bar an ounce of 2stroke oil to keep it from rusting internally.
- Thread starter
- #151
An update on the “sunroof inner tube fix.”
It has rained several times VERY heavy here in central TX since the repair.
Some notes: If the cruiser is parked nose downhill or on level ground it does not leak onto the headliner, if it is parked nose up hill it does leak to the rear into the driver passenger foot well. My guess is the drip tray fills up and overflows to the back because the drains are only in the front. Is it actually repaired? Seems like, kinda..
Not perfect but, I can live with it for now.
It has rained several times VERY heavy here in central TX since the repair.
Some notes: If the cruiser is parked nose downhill or on level ground it does not leak onto the headliner, if it is parked nose up hill it does leak to the rear into the driver passenger foot well. My guess is the drip tray fills up and overflows to the back because the drains are only in the front. Is it actually repaired? Seems like, kinda..
Not perfect but, I can live with it for now.
ppc
M Go Blue
There are four drains, one on each corner of the sunroof.
- Thread starter
- #154
Took the cruiser for a nice long drive down to the local fishing spot. Ran into a broke down 2001 lx470 on the muddy banks.
In the short time I was there I diagnosed it with fuel pump failure. No fuel coming out the fuel filter line under hood but fuel pump relay was clicking.
Ending up towing him up to the road to the waiting tow truck guy cause they couldn’t get the flat bed down the mud slick bank by the river. Towed him out by my bumper hitch and a tow strap the driver brought.
Funny that I showed up right as the tow guy got there. Lx470 guy was beside himself with joy.
I’m proud of my work so far. What a good feeling.
Told him to take pictures and txt me. He probably forgot.
So here’s a picture of my baby girl walking in the park.
In the short time I was there I diagnosed it with fuel pump failure. No fuel coming out the fuel filter line under hood but fuel pump relay was clicking.
Ending up towing him up to the road to the waiting tow truck guy cause they couldn’t get the flat bed down the mud slick bank by the river. Towed him out by my bumper hitch and a tow strap the driver brought.
Funny that I showed up right as the tow guy got there. Lx470 guy was beside himself with joy.
I’m proud of my work so far. What a good feeling.
Told him to take pictures and txt me. He probably forgot.
So here’s a picture of my baby girl walking in the park.
- Thread starter
- #155
Wiring in in-line trans temp sensor. Still waiting on a mud vendor to send me the a-piller gauge pod to finish it up. The temp sensor has been installed for a two weeks and several trips without leaking so I trust it.
I recently replaced the distributor oil oring and the front of the engine is drying up. Doesn’t look like any other oil leaks other than a wet FMS and RMS.
Also put some DOT tape on the rear bumper and swing out. Yeah it might be a little ugly but better safe than wrecked out.
Oh and I replaced my fusable links as well.
Weighting my options on the amount of lift and the lift kit vendor. The most I want is 3 inches. I’m looking at getting 33in tires on stocker wheels when these tires either wear out or aren’t aggressive enough.
I do have some clicking in the front hub under load with the wheel turned. Sounds like I need to do a rebuild soon. I know they aren’t dry of grease because I made sure to pack them when I bought the cruiser. There are two different sites to buy from one includes wheel bearings and the other doesn’t. I will mostly likely go with rockauto for the axle shafts if available. I guess I should start tearing it apart to see what I actually need..
I recently replaced the distributor oil oring and the front of the engine is drying up. Doesn’t look like any other oil leaks other than a wet FMS and RMS.
Also put some DOT tape on the rear bumper and swing out. Yeah it might be a little ugly but better safe than wrecked out.
Oh and I replaced my fusable links as well.
Weighting my options on the amount of lift and the lift kit vendor. The most I want is 3 inches. I’m looking at getting 33in tires on stocker wheels when these tires either wear out or aren’t aggressive enough.
I do have some clicking in the front hub under load with the wheel turned. Sounds like I need to do a rebuild soon. I know they aren’t dry of grease because I made sure to pack them when I bought the cruiser. There are two different sites to buy from one includes wheel bearings and the other doesn’t. I will mostly likely go with rockauto for the axle shafts if available. I guess I should start tearing it apart to see what I actually need..
I kind of like the tape. It gives it that overseas LC look or you've been around the world look. Can't tell from the pic but hopefully that ring terminal has a correct crimp tool crimp on it. If you don't have that a dab of solder can help. Interested in your gauge pod. I've thought of doing this too. If you're on a budget and have the goal of 33's, they will fit without a lift and you could put airbags in the back coils for extra weight like Air Lift 1000's or something. I did a 2" lift so I could fit 35's.
I should have fitted the trans fluid temp gauge when I replaced my radiator and added a trans fluid cooler.
do you have a link to the parts you used for the fluid line? Thanks.
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- #158
I should have fitted the trans fluid temp gauge when I replaced my radiator and added a trans fluid cooler.
I used:
Auto Meter 2259 Electric Cylinder Head Temperature Sender
And
3/8 Inline Barb Fuel Pressure Gauge Hose Adapter with 1/8" NPT Port Fitting Billet Aluminum Black
Both are available on Amazon.
I had to thread the inline barbed fitting deeper with a 1/8 npt tap to make sure there was plenty of seal between the fitting and sensor. AND to also sandwich the terminal loop between the sender and the fitting for a ground that the one wire 2259 requires.
Because it’s a fuel barb I also had to machine down the barbed portion a bit for it to push into the new trans cooler lines because they are so new and tight. Also 3/8 fuel line and 3/8 trans line are different internal dimensions.
All the other options I found were too large to fit where I wanted it to place it.
I used trial and error to decide what I really wanted to do. At first I wanted to tap into the lower rad hose with a 40mm barb but decided against that because of possible leaking. I did not want to use screw type hose clamps because they WILL leak over time and they damage hose. Spring clamps only! Plus, with coolant temp (not live) already displayed on cluster it seemed redundant. I’m not interested in the live temp mod on the cluster (too risky) Also, I added an aux trans cooler fan, so why not get actual live trans temp? I went that direction.
The temp sender that came with the botch live temp gauge was too long for the little inline barb so I had to replace it with the 2259.
Seems like 2259 is the only available sender of that size that would work.
Like I said I have been test driving the cruiser around without the steel splash guard off and checking for leaks. I even toed a lx470 out of a mud hole and I have not found even a seep. I should get a 3/8 barb splice as a back up JIC though.
That was long winded, but that’s what it took to do what I believe is the best option for my application.
Now you all have the short cut..
Awesome, thank you!I used:
Auto Meter 2259 Electric Cylinder Head Temperature Sender
And
3/8 Inline Barb Fuel Pressure Gauge Hose Adapter with 1/8" NPT Port Fitting Billet Aluminum Black
Both are available on Amazon.
I had to thread the inline barbed fitting deeper with a 1/8 npt tap to make sure there was plenty of seal between the fitting and sensor. AND to also sandwich the terminal loop between the sender and the fitting for a ground that the one wire 2259 requires.
Because it’s a fuel barb I also had to machine down the barbed portion a bit for it to push into the new trans cooler lines because they are so new and tight. Also 3/8 fuel line and 3/8 trans line are different internal dimensions.
All the other options I found were too large to fit where I wanted it to place it.
I used trial and error to decide what I really wanted to do. At first I wanted to tap into the lower rad hose with a 40mm barb but decided against that because of possible leaking. I did not want to use screw type hose clamps because they WILL leak over time and they damage hose. Spring clamps only! Plus, with coolant temp (not live) already displayed on cluster it seemed redundant. I’m not interested in the live temp mod on the cluster (too risky) Also, I added an aux trans cooler fan, so why not get actual live trans temp? I went that direction.
The temp sender that came with the botch live temp gauge was too long for the little inline barb so I had to replace it with the 2259.
Seems like 2259 is the only available sender of that size that would work.
Like I said I have been test driving the cruiser around without the steel splash guard off and checking for leaks. I even toed a lx470 out of a mud hole and I have not found even a seep. I should get a 3/8 barb splice as a back up JIC though.
That was long winded, but that’s what it took to do what I believe is the best option for my application.
Now you all have the short cut..
- Thread starter
- #160
Took the cruiser for a drive down to the store and the check engine light came on.
I checked the live data and LTFT is tacked out but STFT is switching. O2 sensors are switching as expected as well.
I have been disconnecting the batteries to do electrical work as well.
I did make a custom block off plate for the EGR cylinder head port. But I don’t hear the tell tail exhaust tick from it. Maybe soapy water when the engine cools off tomorrow morning.
I also made a plate for the EGR port on the IM and I suspect that may be the source of a vacuum leak..
In any event, at this point the o2 sensors probably need to be changed out anyway.
I checked the live data and LTFT is tacked out but STFT is switching. O2 sensors are switching as expected as well.
I have been disconnecting the batteries to do electrical work as well.
I did make a custom block off plate for the EGR cylinder head port. But I don’t hear the tell tail exhaust tick from it. Maybe soapy water when the engine cools off tomorrow morning.
I also made a plate for the EGR port on the IM and I suspect that may be the source of a vacuum leak..
In any event, at this point the o2 sensors probably need to be changed out anyway.
