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Kjartanbj said:I have the exact same setup on mine, works flawlessly, mine disengages by spring tough
much better and much cheaper than the electric junk
Kjartanbj said:I dont have a part number or anything, local guy makes them here in Iceland
but it's essentially the same design as OP has
Kjartanbj said:I think it would be cheaper to find someone that makes them locally , can be easily fabricated, there was someone here on mud that had found the parts needed and was going to make one like mine
Camino said:I want to buy one. I don't want to source the parts and fab one. I want to buy a turn key air accuator to replace my dead electric rear accuator. Anybody sell them? Thanx, L.B.
does anyone have an email address for the mysterious Iceland Guy who might have the part numbers for these valves and cylinders? Thanx in advance, L.B.![]()
Finally gave up on this Ireland mystery man, and shelled out $700 for this:
Wow, you didn't try very hard I'm thinking!
It came down to a make vs buy decission. Honestly I needed somthing that was drop in PNP, I have so much other work to do getting this rig trail-worthy, that getting sucked into this actuator subproject would be a major setback. I would have considered buying one from the Ireland guy if there was solid contact info. I do not have access to a machine shop, and do not have the time or energy to be running drawings around to machine shops, chasing parts.... I may have put more effort into this air actuator idea if my entire rig was up and running, I did not have 2 jobs and 2 kids under 3 years old. In this case I had more money than time.
Those are lame excuses coming from a smart engineer but I'll let you slither by.Drilling five holes in the plate doesn't sound that complicated but it's your $700. I'm guessing an hour worth of work with two different drill bits and a file to clean things up unless I"m missing something.
Heck, it'll take more time to come up with the logic/wiring/installation of the E-locker into an old 40 I'm thinking![]()
Answers to questions:
The cylinder is double acting and is 32 mm diameter and 25 mm stroke. The system needs a 19 mm stroke. I installed a spring the cylinder to limit the stroke to 19 mm but if you keep 25 mm should not be a problem. The springs also make the system fail safe off in sense that if i have a problem with the solenoid valve, i can disconnect the hoses and it will return to off position and i will not have crawl under the truck at the wrong time (with my new suit and make my wife very mad).
This is my first post, i thougth i was able to post as many times 135 kB pictures but i realize that i can't post more than 135 kB total. Those intersted in having all the images can send me a message with your e-mail adrres and i will gladly forward you the autocad drawing of the plate and all pictures.
I also thought about a cable actuator but it would have been more difficult to have it sealed correctly and also you have to push in to actuate the diff lock, you would need rods and all sorts of things that will rust and seized.
I am pulling a 6000 lbs travel trailer with the truck and rear end was very low when i pull so i added air lift www.airliftcompany.com to raise it. I have a compressor connected to an air swith that maintains pressure to 30 psi (compressor starts at 30 and stops at 45psi). This pressure feeds the solenoid valve for the diff lock actuator and also a pressure regulator that feed the air lifti adjust to 25 psi when i pull the trailer and 5 psi when and i am not.
I found lot of interesting topics on that site and i read a lot but this time i will try to help a bit.
Hi Claude would it be possible to email the cad ect to gsxrsumo@hotmail.co.uk. Many thanks daveMy rear diff lock actuator was having extensive damage. It was full of rust inside, all gear, shafts everything heavily rusted and completely seized, the motor rotor was falling into pieces, i live in Canada where road salt in winter affects everything. I called dealer and i did not want to spend the 1500$ he wants for it so i designed a air actuated diff lock actuator. I did it two years ago and it worked perfectly since then. It cost me about 25$ to do it. I purchased a air cylinder and a solenoid valve on Ebay I have attached pictures of the dissambled and reassembled actuator. I installed a Oring in the groove on the cylinder head. The actuator rod is made with a 14 mm bolt. I drilled one hole at the end to attach it to the cylinder with a threaded rod and one hole on the side for the fork inside the differential. I also attached a autocad drawing of the mounting plate. If you access to a milling and a lathe with minimal knowledge than you save 1500$ in about 4 hours. I already had an air compressor in the truck for the air lift suspension. . It is working like the OEM one, with the switch on the left side of the steering column (i bypassed on wire at the diff lock controller behind the passenger side kick panel). I hooked the cylinder up to the 12 volts 4-way 5 ports solenoid valve at 30 psi. The only diffence between this and the OEM is that I can turn the diff lock on even if the center diff lock is not on.
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