different take on the trans mount and skid plate (1 Viewer)

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With the interest. I’ve been looking into it. Finalizing the design and coatings. I’m not a huge fan of powder coating but that is likely the direction for something like this.

Give me about 2 weeks to work out details.
 
With the interest. I’ve been looking into it. Finalizing the design and coatings. I’m not a huge fan of powder coating but that is likely the direction for something like this.

Give me about 2 weeks to work out details.

Personally, I wouldn't do powder coating. I would consider blasting, then coating with the JD Blitz Black system @2fpower uses. VERY durable and can be touched up.

And, you can get it in any color you want, as long as it's black......
 
Is it me or does the back of the transfer case just touch the back of the skid?

upload_2019-1-30_19-47-47.png
 
Is it me or does the back of the transfer case just touch the back of the skid?

View attachment 1893478

As noted finalized is 1 inch longer. The boss it not used so I cut it off my case. plenty of room. That was also unwelded and pushed up to check for clearance.
 
If I recall, that point on the transfer is just behind the drain hole... is that right? Foo's plate was bent up from playing on the rocks and was pressed up against that tab. I think that I elongated the hole so it does not hit that tab, and still is up nice and tight.
 
Very nice! I may sell off my IPOR plate and get one of these if you are gonna sell em!
 
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Be it alm or steel I like the way it wraps the tcase. My current skid is a belly and most of the contact I see is on the outside edges were there is nothing to protect.

I have a similar design coming to EXPO west for testing.

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You know, you could just throw a couple strips of AR plate steel on the bottom, or a square piece of delrin like this on the bottom.

I don't really do any rock crawling, up here its more ice/mud and stumps so I can sympathize with trying to use aluminum where possible to keep weight down.

delrin.JPG


I don't really do any rock crawling, up here its more ice/mud and stumps so I can sympathize with trying to use aluminum where possible to keep weight down.
 
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Powder coating armor does not make sense if you wheel.

Nice design and work.:clap:

I’m looking into a zinc. Could be lower cost than powder then just paint over it and reapply as needed. Could throw them in with other parts already going there for a company I’m doing some work for.
 
I’m looking into a zinc. Could be lower cost than powder then just paint over it and reapply as needed. Could throw them in with other parts already going there for a company I’m doing some work for.


Hot dip or electro?
 
I’m looking into a zinc. Could be lower cost than powder then just paint over it and reapply as needed. Could throw them in with other parts already going there for a company I’m doing some work for.

Zinc is much cheaper than powder coat and more durable with the guys I use. My zinc parts go through 5 tanks start to finish and it last. Clear or yellow is the same cost in our hood. Same with powder coat if prep is weak so will your durability. Being large and heavy it will be somewhat difficult to ship powder coated without any damage. Even though its armor buyers will bitch if it arrives with a chip.:rolleyes: Best solution IMO ship it raw and the buyer can finish it to his/her liking. You get zero shipping issue that way.
 
Zinc doesn't hold up in anything other than dry climates FWIW.

I've had great luck with black Endura semi-gloss, holds up much better than powdercoat or anything else I've used. I painted the bumpers of my Jeep with it over 10 years ago and they look brand new, can't say the same for the powdercoated parts on my cruiser.


Raw metal is probably best and easiest, saves the purchaser some money on the initial cost and you don't have to deal with after-sale issues related to the coating.
 
You know, you could just throw a couple strips of AR plate steel on the bottom, or a square piece of delrin like this on the bottom.

I don't really do any rock crawling, up here its more ice/mud and stumps so I can sympathize with trying to use aluminum where possible to keep weight down.

View attachment 1893764

I don't really do any rock crawling, up here its more ice/mud and stumps so I can sympathize with trying to use aluminum where possible to keep weight down.

Personally I dont think being aluminum will slow me down or keep me from getting there. Most rock buggys and race trucks use aluminum and it doesnt seem to slow them down.:meh: And if steel was THAT much better they would not be using aluminum.
 
Personally I dont think being aluminum will slow me down or keep me from getting there. Most rock buggys and race trucks use aluminum and it doesnt seem to slow them down.:meh: And if steel was THAT much better they would not be using aluminum.
I agree, it's also a very common off-the-shelf armour option for Jeeps that see a lot of rocks.
 
Zinc doesn't hold up in anything other than dry climates FWIW.

I know no other climate:flipoff2:
Maybe galvanized:meh: Our mud flap eliminators have seen lots of weather nationwide and for me lots of miles on the beach and they have held up great over the years.
 

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