different take on the trans mount and skid plate (1 Viewer)

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There are a lot of threads and versions of the 80 series skid plate. While there are a bunch of great HD options out there, I just couldn't get on board with any of the solutions, DIY or turn key vendor options. here is my plan, thought I share and get some input.

criteria:
- not 3/8". Its tough, heavy, and strong but seems like not enough of an engineered solution to me. I mean 1/2 inch would be stiffer and stronger. hell why not 1"..... why is 3/8 the right solution for 2 dimensional bends. some angles and bends can make it stout and stronger at the same time with less weight with better function.
- angles: skids need to be able to slip up on to the flats. Sharp edges on the lowest contacting surfaces aren't the best in my experiences.
- debating doing some FEA and possible doing 3/16 but for now 1/4 will be good for a quick and dirty.

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These CAD pics are not 100%. I have my complete version being cut. It might be here tomorrow. Do some test fits and changes if needed.
 
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There are a lot of threads and versions of the 80 series skid plate. While there are a bunch of great HD options out there, I just couldn't get on board with any of the solutions, DIY or turn key vendor options. here is my plan, thought I share and get some input.

criteria:
- not 3/8". Its tough, heavy, and strong but seems like not enough of an engineered solution to me. I mean 1/2 inch would be stiffer and stronger. hell why not 1"..... why is 3/8 the right solution for 2 dimensional bends. some angles and bends can make it stout and stronger at the same time with less weight with better function.
- angles: skids need to be able to slip up on to the flats. Sharp edges on the lowest contacting surfaces aren't the best in my experiences.
- debating doing some FEA and possible doing 3/16 but for now 1/4 will be good for a quick and dirty.
When you have your final product, it might be better than some of the available offerings. If your goal is to sell your version, I think the answer will be evident in the price why the others are the way they are. I expect your skid would be priced like a bumper if you produce them. The other skids are less expensive than bumpers. 3/8" has held up for the other designs. A more engineered solution might be able to use lighter and less expensive steel, but the cost of fabrication will run it up dramatically. Why not 1/2" or 1"? Because 3/8" has worked.

If you're building this for the fun of a project, and your time is not a "cost", you may have a winner of an idea.
 

LandCruiserPhil

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In my experience aluminum sticks to rocks, rather than slides off. Al is a horrible bearing material, and lets face it if your hung on a rock, you want the truck to slide off, not stick to it like glue.

Be it alm or steel I like the way it wraps the tcase. My current skid is a belly and most of the contact I see is on the outside edges were there is nothing to protect.

I have a similar design coming to EXPO west for testing.

xS4Cp0dVD94AdbY8-_XzoFLCtJRdZFyP4HZbY1PXQw8Hs-TCWom4UnB1DxqKJmQB8S7XePCy3M_c9AL6-AN6LsBxEyqQ2l7e0aBUS7e081G5Xi8RNsTbviYU3bL0Qp6je86yQKUUOl5JKxYFdVozUzY3yeuzEa7V7zBqs4sb2j3YPRIxvu_N4xqr33Ri57DZWdpyxAPIeuue5PJqVWICBbPaClrvBvLoGK_qWl7JCClUNSiEcmCT_kTTj-nrCt9hpA6Tjhj7Eli_mzbm1O18iqAIKT3GssLiNtxMbuqTgaI6I_hE0k4JcGkv0xKVPULvQDNNp7w4E2LZL_nQxlTDVL4wdLH2hbY6RbFVUpOh6m4IGm0OJ_SuZOf1QuaFoqBAKIPdPeegRlrEB5Fz7V-Qxw8z6OOy42jfJQjN3aPr-2ozuUihabxMyjX6vgUOocSSgj_Nbic7hRtDhx_Uwm37irKg26dGYLVYgZtgduXC1LK70qmvMAlYAqEz6mKqQmm6AO9o4iFYFoeHvm_lUuO2FPczsm9f4i_AAtG1LTO62P-axS9kt5V1nb3QQBpQE6Zw_7sa1CUTgy0eNayIj39U5Iwg2zXBE4L12vyt_h2CQX4_Jlq35G9J2j9GZDBYUmVc1JJ4pW-ngRsK_ofDPTWJZrd5dw=w1407-h938-no
 
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malteserunner

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I would say 1/4" minimum if this will see rocks. 80 series is a heavy pig.

Maybe add some dimple dies for stiffness?
 
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Be it alm or steel I like the way it wraps the tcase. My current skid is a belly and most of the contact I see is on the outside edges were there is nothing to protect.

I have a similar design coming to EXPO west for testing.

xS4Cp0dVD94AdbY8-_XzoFLCtJRdZFyP4HZbY1PXQw8Hs-TCWom4UnB1DxqKJmQB8S7XePCy3M_c9AL6-AN6LsBxEyqQ2l7e0aBUS7e081G5Xi8RNsTbviYU3bL0Qp6je86yQKUUOl5JKxYFdVozUzY3yeuzEa7V7zBqs4sb2j3YPRIxvu_N4xqr33Ri57DZWdpyxAPIeuue5PJqVWICBbPaClrvBvLoGK_qWl7JCClUNSiEcmCT_kTTj-nrCt9hpA6Tjhj7Eli_mzbm1O18iqAIKT3GssLiNtxMbuqTgaI6I_hE0k4JcGkv0xKVPULvQDNNp7w4E2LZL_nQxlTDVL4wdLH2hbY6RbFVUpOh6m4IGm0OJ_SuZOf1QuaFoqBAKIPdPeegRlrEB5Fz7V-Qxw8z6OOy42jfJQjN3aPr-2ozuUihabxMyjX6vgUOocSSgj_Nbic7hRtDhx_Uwm37irKg26dGYLVYgZtgduXC1LK70qmvMAlYAqEz6mKqQmm6AO9o4iFYFoeHvm_lUuO2FPczsm9f4i_AAtG1LTO62P-axS9kt5V1nb3QQBpQE6Zw_7sa1CUTgy0eNayIj39U5Iwg2zXBE4L12vyt_h2CQX4_Jlq35G9J2j9GZDBYUmVc1JJ4pW-ngRsK_ofDPTWJZrd5dw=w1407-h938-no

My experience with aluminum is the same, to sticky on sharp rocks.

Now going forward from this with a bolt on aluminum sheet tucked up a little for more of protection from sticks and stuff from getting up and into trans pan and wiring, might be a good direction.

Yes this might be a more expensive option, we’ll see I’m making a few for some buddies rigs I work on also, but mostly want it for myself.
 
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Looks good. It may be the angle of the photo but, is there a deflection in the plate going between the frame rails?

Also, the part that runs to the xfr case is a long lever. It appears that there could be movement at the end as it is relying on the flat stock on the other end to resist twisting. I am not a metal worker and have no idea how much force it would take to make this move. Is there a way to brace the other side against the frame? I know my Iron pig does this but, it too, is not substantial and still worry about movement.
 
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Looks good. It may be the angle of the photo but, is there a deflection in the plate going between the frame rails?

Also, the part that runs to the xfr case is a long lever. It appears that there could be movement at the end as it is relying on the flat stock on the other end to resist twisting. I am not a metal worker and have no idea how much force it would take to make this move. Is there a way to brace the other side against the frame? I know my Iron pig does this but, it too, is not substantial and still worry about movement.
Good eye. Just a test fit no braces welded in. Just checking for.
 
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that looks good, does it drop down the t-case a bit to change the drive shaft angle? looks like its going from square tubing to flat stock.
It will be spaced down 1/4” from where it’s at in the photo. The stock crossmember only is 1/4” below the frame mounting plates
 
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The main parts are finalized. Angles changed and final design is a 1 inch longer. .5” clearance between the TC and skid. Just working on the TC support next.

For bolt protection some round tube around trans mount bolts and some .5x1” flat stock parallel with the frame between the frame side bolts so they are not the lowest point.

Stay tuned...

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KennyBob

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The main parts are finalized. Angles changed and final design is a 1 inch longer. .5” clearance between the TC and skid. Just working on the TC support next.

For bolt protection some round tube around trans mount bolts and some .5x1” flat stock parallel with the frame between the frame side bolts so they are not the lowest point.

Stay tuned...

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Now that’s purdy.
 

LINUS

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Looks right niiice!

-As to the pro - AL construction peeps, my 2wd quad has 3/16” A-arm, belly, rear arm guards and they are downright sticky on rocks. Lots of gouging that stops 1/2 way where we get off & pick up the bike to get off the sharp object.

Got a 4wd quad recently & people are sticking to the plastic OE guards since they are slick compared to AL.
In boating, river sleds are now more common to see HDPE sheeting with countersunk hardware on welded AL hulls, for “slide vs sticking” on rocks in shallow sections.

OP - you thinking about making a run, or is just a hobby piece for your 80?
 

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