diesel into a 40 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 30, 2003
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Maine
Hello,

My appologies if this is the wrong section for this, but here goes...

I've got a 78 fj40 with a 81-83 2F engine in it. Runs good, but I think it
will need to get rebuilt fairly soon. I am considering just getting a diesel and 5 spd tranny instead of rebuilding the 2F. It's daily driven, on (70%) & off (30%) road, and it gets very cold here.

I've been reading up on the diesel swap subject and have gone from a cummins 4BT or GM 6.2L to a toyota 13bt or 1HZ with H55 trans.
So, between the 2 mentioned toyota diesels, which would be the best for a swap? Has anyone here done a similar swap? I want to know if this seems foolish or if it is possible. Some of my concerns are parts availability and fuel economy. I'm not that concerned with having lots of HP, just a reliable engine that won't be parked for weeks waiting for parts....
Sorry to ramble, and thanks for reading.
:beer:
 
It would be a bit of work but the 13BT sounds like the fit for your vechicle and your situation.

Direct injection, turbo, H55 and you will be plenty happy for years to come.

I have heard of fire wall issues during stallation and that it can be a tough install, no first hand advice on this baby.

Goood Luck.

Rob
 
There are details about a 13B-T installation at www.gscruiserparts.com read the whole file it goes over it quite in depth... - Sheldon Walsh (the S in G&S) installed one into his BJ70, I think it would be fine? Only thing is they are 24V it will require some thought and a decent converter to power all of your OEM 12V stuff... But not too difficult at all IMO to install versus other options...
 
Thanks Rob and Andre,
Actually, I've read almost all the write-ups on your site Andre and they have been VERY informative. I've also had some emails with Sheldon who has also given me lots of good advice and info. I've heard great things about your cruisers, too Rob. I've also heard some say that a 24V system is superior. This also makes me lean towards the 13bt.
Now, I have another question, has either of you or anyone you know run a toyota diesel on vegetable oil? My friend has done the conversion on 2 1980 VW diesels and now gets 70+ MPG on FREE veggie oil!

Thanks again,
Jim
 
i have not heard of any problems running the toyotas on it, but you have to make sure that you cut and process it correctly first - actually turn it into bio-diesel and not just run straight veg-oil. I had a look into it before the gov caught on and started charging 100% excise on methanol. Now for us it costs more to make than buying fossil fuel at the station. Good ol gov, always knows best.
 
fawking government. you couldn't possibly get CHEAP PETROL....

if/ when i get a job in a chem lab, i'll have to get them to order me cheap methanol
 
My friend's aresetup for straight used veggie oil. There's a 2.5 gallon tank and some kind of filter in the engine cmpt. It's set up to run on diesel until the SVO gets to the proper temperature/viscosity which can take around a minute. Then you switch it over to the SVO tank and that's it. You must run it on diesel again when you're done driving to clear the SVO from the fuel lines so it doesn't congeal. The whole kit is about $600 and is supposedly easy to install. He's been doing it for a couple of years now with no problems, so far. He did say that with newer engines that use rubber seals vs. metal the biodiesel can cause some premature wear and that the SVO was more friendly to older diesel engines. Has anyone else heard of this method? Well, didn't mean to get off the subject, I'd be happy to start with a 13BT...one step at a time. I have also heard (rumor) that diesel was a man and his vision was to run engines on straight veg oil and somehow the petrol companies bought his name and put it on what we now know as diesel fuel. Can anybody confirm/correct this rumor?
Thanks!
 
i heard that one too, and the first demo engine he produced ran on veg oil. I havn't heard of the kit you mention, but it sounds like an interesting experiment. I dont think there would be anything particularly wrong with running it straight as long as the injector pump can handle it and its filtered properly. The problem with the rubber seals I think was to do with the chemicals used to cut the veg oil chains and would not be present with straight veg oil. And its older - mid aged engines that have the affectable rubber seals, but there are less seals and pipes to replace on older engines. The new engines have pipes that can handle bio. I think the main point of cutting the oil and not running it straight was to shorten the chains to get a better combustion, but its been a few years since i read it, so I cant remember. There are plenty of good sites on the net with the complete instructions on running an engine with some different methods, but if you get round to it, make sure you take a few photos of the setup for me, I'd love to know how you go.

Sam
 
There are lots of guys running all sorts of engine out there on biodiesel and SVO or WVO (straight or waste-vegetable oil). With the biodiesel, you have to make sure you get your chemical processes right and start out with a decent batch before hand. The WVO you basically have to filter filter filter, and yes wait till the engine gets to operating temp 180-190 degrees and use hot coolant to heat the fuel lines and tank, see www.greasel.com or lots of other sources out there that go over it. You could fab up the whole kit yourself but greasel and other companyies are selling easy kits for that ~$600 number... I would do it and plan to in mine when it's running. I have read a lot about it but have no first hand experience I guess take it for what it's worth... There is also a pretty neat website out there with a chatroom and everything I think at veggievan.org - if you can buy that guy's book too or get it from the library it is super informative. I thought about putting in a whole instant electronic version of it but too expensive and too much $$ (probably) but a elecronic and mechanical (aka coolant) system would work very well. I think if filtered and heated well it would work great, get a PH tester (recommended anyways) to test for supposed rubber seal damage but I wouldn't worry about it too much if it were me... or at least I don't plan to...
 
I have run a 13BT in Agent Orange (81 BJ42) for the past two years and absolutely love it.


Charla
 
The 13B-T or the 1HZ were never available here in North America direct from Toyota. All these engines are either takeouts from overseas or mine engines. Not a bad thing but you cannot waltz down to the local dealer and order parts. That being said, mine engine parts would be obtainable from the same sources as the mines get their parts, at least until the engine is obsolete in the mines. The 13B-T MAY share some minor parts with the 3B but not much. Why not go with a 3B and an AXT turbo as the 3B was imported by Toyota and parts availability should be reasonably good (generally I have no problems). Fuel economy with the 3B is MUCH superior over the 2F.
 
The 13bt is a fairly common transplant in Australia
and is very good on fuel
Rudolf diesel was a German inventor ,In 1898 The first engine he
made was powered by coal dust but blew up nearly
killing him the next engine was tried on peanut oil I think
the rest is history
 
DRE- there was a documentary on a guy in vail or telluride (whatever it was in colorado)that does the whole veggie deisel thing. anyways i saw it at the banff film festival, pretty entertaining guy. i meant to tell you about it cause i thought for sure that had to know him..... i think he has a pretty in depth site that can be found searching through the city hall page he lives in.
 
What is the swap of a 3B into an FJ40 like? Haven't seen any writeups anywhere. I may have a lead on a 3B/H55 out of a BJ70 for pretty cheap. What transfer case will fit behind the H55 in this application?
 
Hey cpip,
If you're buying a 3B/H55-F, make sure you get the split transfer-case to go with it. They're only mildly difficult to find in canada, but if you're in the states, good luck....

Someone else pipe in; did the H55-F go from a 16 to 19 spline output to the split case in '85 (the first year of the BJ-70) or was it the other way around? Anyways, whatever the newer spline count is, it is the strongest H55-F transfercase combo.

Personally, I think you would be foolish to turn down a cheap 3B/H55-F to swap into your 40 series. It'll turn your 'good' landcruiser into a 'great' landcruiser. Lots of support on the 'international' section on IH8MUD.

....come to the dark side.....


cheers,
Steve
 
yeah, smcruisin,

the difference on the h55f (i always type hff5...) was on the 6cyl (2H) and the 4cyl (3B) versions, i believe.


malphrus
(man i want to go diesel...)
 
cpip, I've contacted the person who has it (my little brother) but he's in the field today. I'll have him contact you. It's in a legal US BJ60 right now; he had talked about selling the drivetrain separate from the rest.
 

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