crushers
post ho
OEM quality, not OEM kit...
Diesel engine advice
- Thread starter Cruiseraddict
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I would run some lucas oil stablizer in that old tired motor, I bet it will help out alot untill you get around to fixing it. I have herd you can use it up to 50 50 and that would make for some really thick oil, just watch your pressure
cheers
cheers
- Thread starter
- #23
lucas oil stabilizer
already put some in pure patroleum. Good stuff and it has helped out a lot. Thanks for the heads up.
already put some in pure patroleum. Good stuff and it has helped out a lot. Thanks for the heads up.
check some of these prices etc,http://www.dieselspares.com.au/ 
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
mallred said:
As you can tell 2B is pretty hard to find parts for. Might be worth it to see if you can find even a good used 3B instead of rebuilding the 2B, just for parts availability (and better/more powerful design, IMO). Just a thought...
crushers
post ho
actually the JDM spec 2B and the Canadian spec 3B are the same hp rating...
the big difference i saw was the 2B seemed faster than the 3B...
the big difference i saw was the 2B seemed faster than the 3B...
The 2B is not as environmentally friendly as the 3B that is why is it faster less engineering in being efficient.
Michael
Michael
- Thread starter
- #30
thanks big brown dog
I think I am going to order the rebuild kit from down under. Cheers Mate
I think I am going to order the rebuild kit from down under. Cheers Mate
- Thread starter
- #31
the 2B seems to have faster pick up and speed compared to the 3B. Hey to load pic of the restoration do you just drag them into the message box or what??
My bj-60 with the 3b diesel is also consuming 1 quart every 500 km. The engine has 378km on it. I suspect a rebuild might be in order but not in a finacial position to afford it. rings and valve stem seals my be the best order for this vehicle. Right now just put in one quart every 500km. BTW, do these rings stick with carbon or just get worn out with a engine of this age? Is there a agent I can stick in the next oil change to break up any carbon in the oil rings?
harryv
harryv
haryv said:
did you run the ATF thru the oil 100kms before oil change?
Try that. Might unstick a ring.
Also what are you using for oil? What climate do you live in. Run thicker oil if your in Vancouver.
Go get the compression checked. Robert Milison of Landcruiser industries can hook you up with that.
Also check for any leaks on the engine. Leaving any oil spots on the pavement?
haryv said:
You may find that if you clean the sludge from the piston rings with those klms it could get worse.
It generally better to use an oil thickener or thicker oil in an old engine to help maintain compression.
The rebuild kits from australia are not overly expensive but you will need to add machining and assembly costs.
Your next move should be a wet/dry compression test to ascertain if it is a compression problem
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
brownbear said:
Is that suggestion is good on a regular base ?
Even if I don't have problem with my engine ?
How much ATF ?
crushers
post ho
hummm, are you sure? compression rings have nothing to do with oil rings. using thicker oil is supposed to reduce the blue coming out the tailpipe...roscoFJ73 said:
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
crushers said:
yap is only an ilusion .. that more people use and all say I " feel " more power with thick oil .. but not.
David*BJ70 said:
oh someone posted pictures of before and after in an engine that had the atf thru it.
they showed before with the valve cover off, then they ran the atf for 100km and showed after. A lot cleaner.
Everytime.................I dunno.
I have heard a full liter in the oil before oil change is the amount.
There was a bunch of info in here or somewhere else about it.
