destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

[a.greenspan]

so my tenative game plan is to clean the fuel system out today.

new fuel lines, clean the tank out ( air compressor i guess, no one posted back on the best way to clean that )

Link how to clean a gas tank
How to Clean a Car Gas Tank | eHow.com

Gas cap on a 64 should be a non issue. Wasn't until around 71 when there sealed the cap. There is a small hole in the fill neck where the chain attaches that should let the tank vent vent.

Interesting, did`t know that ( always learning )would it be possible to make a pic of such a fill neck with the hole ?
Cheers
Peter

 

[Living in the Past]

I believe most of my filler necks are stored out of town but I did find this dirty one from a 69 I cut up years ago.

 

[a.greenspan]

I believe most of my filler necks are stored out of town but I did find this dirty one from a 69 I cut up years ago.

stored
Thanks
Peter

 

[dkroth]

hey, also what does heat soak mean?

Heat soak is when things get hot after you stop the truck versus driving around.

For instance, you mentioned the lack of an isolator on the carb. When you start the truck cold and drive it around, the engine warms up but the flow of air under the hood keeps the carb relatively cool. When you park the truck for 5 minutes, the heat from the exhaust manifold cooks the carb and fuel in the bowl and lines. Now when you restart everything *could* act differently because of the heat. This is a general phenomenon that can apply to any engine system: cooling, electrical, lubrication (think turbo), etc.

 

[destin]

thanks for the explaination

ok, drained and pulled the tank, flush it with water, and sat it over the sink to dry for a few days.
There was some sediment the tank and filters, but the carb looks clean inside the bowl ( had 2 inline filters )

I blew the copper lines out with air from the pump to the carb, installed a new fuel filter, and ran it from a gas can sitting still, let it idle for a while...

When i modulate the gas by hand up it sputters and sounds liek it is missing, not all the time, but when i rev it up it sometimes stalls sputters etc. Fuel bowl remains dead on the site glas line the whole time.
For got to get a fueline pressure gauge, but can run that tonight or tomorrow and see if that is the problem....

so what, bad carb or vaccum leak?

Checked all the plug lines, they are in the right order and seated.
Distributer is new and the gap was set by the mechanic as well as the timing, can this go bad in maybe 10 miles of driving?

If the points are getting bad, or the timing getting out of sync ( I have no idea how to do either of those adjustments ) Then how on earth is is getting out of wack>? what can cause these symptoms? Coli go bad again?

Sorry for the long response, I just have no clue how to sort this.


Thanks

 

[destin]

this is the distributer i bought btw

OEM VACADV DIST-
1958-8/87 *OEM*

so could it be just not having the insulator below the carb or the carb has massive vacuum leaks?

It was rebuilt by Mark, but he said he was curious to how it would work as he had to file the warped bits to get them so seat well.

is it easy to pull a stud and mount a longer one so i can place an insulator?
i have and aluminum/metal one from mark, but would not that metal conduct heat rather than insulate?

also the previous owner had drilled a PCV thread tube in the lower part of the throttle body, probably becuase they removed the insulator. could that be the problem?


also the mechanic used rubber vacuum lines for the vacuum advance for the dizzy, but he said that would be fine...

 

[destin]

bad cell photos form today:

 

[IDave]

You need to go at things methodically, but a vacuum gauge and readings might very well be helpful. If you don't have one, think about getting one.

Certainly you could have a leak at the manifold after running it a bit, and it wouldn't hurt to torque the manifold bolts.

Your electrical timing should be set at 7 - 12 degrees before top dead center.

Mark had some carb insulators made (from aluminum) and sold me one. I would definitely get one of those if you can.

 

[destin]

You need to go at things methodically, but a vacuum gauge and readings might very well be helpful. If you don't have one, think about getting one.

Certainly you could have a leak at the manifold after running it a bit, and it wouldn't hurt to torque the manifold bolts.

Your electrical timing should be set at 7 - 12 degrees before top dead center.

where would you connect a vacuum gauge? ( sorry if that is dumb )
This is different that the fuel pressure gauge yeah?

I think he said the had the timing set to 3 degrees advance.. that wrong?
could that be part of the problem? When you reste the timing, do uyou need to reset the point gap? Could the wrong timign have fouled the dist points?

i pulled the spark plugs and they were kidna dark, let me get a photo:

here, sorry kinda blurry

Also, ihave a carb insulator form mark, aluminum, but does not that metal conduct heat?
Also i have to replace one of the carb studs with a longer one, to place the insulator, tough to pull the stud and put in a new one? ( they were supposed to do it when they machined the manifold , but they forgot )


trying to be methodical, btu My gap in information/knowledge limits me a bit, thanks for being patient guys

 

[IDave]

This is how I connect my vacuum gauge. (That's my FJ40 but they're the same).
"T" into the manifold hose to the front drive shift. I have it connected to a gauge in the cab, but I have a reducer adaptor connected and can have a hand held gauge hooked up while I'm doing a tuneup.

I don't know what they mean by 3 degrees of advance. If it means 3 degrees BTDC, then yes it's wrong. If it is 3 plus the standard 7 degrees (= 10) then that's OK. I would check it myself with a timing gun, of course.

 

[destin]

This is how I connect my vacuum gauge. (That's my FJ40 but they're the same).
"T" into the manifold hose to the front drive shift. I have it connected to a gauge in the cab, but I have a reducer adaptor connected and can have a hand held gauge hooked up while I'm doing a tuneup.

I don't know what they mean by 3 degrees of advance. If it means 3 degrees BTDC, then yes it's wrong. If it is 3 plus the standard 7 degrees (= 10) then that's OK. I would check it myself with a timing gun, of course.

thanks man, sorry if I am not understanding...

connect to the vacuum line that comes off the manifold and goes to the 4wd vacuum shifting bit?

What should the vacuum read ? a constant number at idle and rev?

i have no idea if he meant 3 plus the standard 7 advance.. he had all of my FSM, so i hope it is correct.

ah , jsut saw your photo thanks

What should i look for if i go get one and install it etc?

 

[IDave]

Also, ihave a carb insulator form mark, aluminum, but does not that metal conduct heat?
Also i have to replace one of the carb studs with a longer one, to place the insulator, tough to pull the stud and put in a new one? ( they were supposed to do it when they machined the manifold , but they forgot )

I would guess the aluminum insulator is not as good as the original phenol one, but maybe not. Anyway, I bet better than nothing. I think aluminum dissipates heat well, and that's why it works.

The studs should unscrew so you can replace with the longer ones. Of course, how easy that is depends, as you know if you've dealt with any screws on your truck.

 

[IDave]

What should the vacuum read ? a constant number at idle and rev?

The vacuum should be very constant at idle. There are all sorts of things you can find out from a vacuum gauge, and if you get one we'll post links to help you interpret.

Ideally the vacuum should be at least 15 at idle and 20 would be great. It depends on a number of things: in my case, elevation limits me to 17.5 inches. Until your rings seat you won't see your max. You're a couple thousand miles from that, most likely. Also, there's some variation in gauges, so one or two inches either way may mean nothing.

If you hook it up and you see 10-14 at idle once warmed up, you probably have a good intake leak.

With a rev, the vacuum will normally drop to 2 and then swing up to 22 to 24.

There's more, of course, but see what you start with.

 

[destin]

The vacuum should be very constant at idle. There are all sorts of things you can find out from a vacuum gauge, and if you get one we'll post links to help you interpret.

Ideally the vacuum should be at least 15 at idle and 20 would be great. It depends on a number of things: in my case, elevation limits me to 17.5 inches. Until your rings seat you won't see your max. You're a couple thousand miles from that, most likely. Also, there's some variation in gauges, so one or two inches either way may mean nothing.

If you hook it up and you see 10-14 at idle once warmed up, you probably have a good intake leak.

With a rev, the vacuum will normally drop to 2 and then swing up to 22 to 24.

There's more, of course, but see what you start with.

cool thanks man

getting a gauge now and will post back.

I will re-torque the intake/exhaust before had as well

Will post up results soon

thanks man!

 

[fj404life]

Get a timing light too. Its easy.

 

[middlecalf]

It was rebuilt by Mark, but he said he was curious to how it would work as he had to file the warped bits to get them so seat well.

Well, maybe the answer is "not well." Warped bits?

Spark plug indicates too rich. And that looks like an awful big gap.

 

[destin]

ok bought a vacuum gauge, but ran around for an hour looking for a step up or adapter to hook up to the manifold nipple. Could not find one at any autoparts store ( checked 5 )

i have no idea how to set the timing, or check set the point gaps
i can set the spark plug gaps tomorrow, could not find the gapping tool

How can it go from running reasonably well to s*** so fast?
All I did was ad gas then park it and the problem started...

i eliminated the tank and by passed it, blew out all the lines etc, problem still there.

I checked the manifold bolts to torque em, btu I could not get them any tighter...
The were machine etc, dunno if it could be leaking i hope not...

man this sucks

 

[destin]

Well, maybe the answer is "not well." Warped bits?

Spark plug indicates too rich. And that looks like an awful big gap.

would that go form working kinda well to not?
Could be it, i jsut keep replacing s*** with new, and I could have a dif carb rebuilt, but this s*** is starting to add up.

I was hoping it was the motor being the problem, pretty depressing to rebuild and engine and still have a s***y running rig

 

[destin]

talked to my brother on the phone who is a deisel mechanic, and he told me to do these things

1) a few oklahoma rebuilds on the carb

2) pinch the vacuum advance line and see if it runs better at idle to see if the diaphram in the vacuum advance is blown

3) regap the plugs

4) try to reset the timing

5) i need to figure out how to check and set the gap on the points, hopefully the FSM can help there.


might be the carb, but that will be a few weeks to send another one to mark to rebuild, but might be worth it, seems weird that is was running ok then not though meh

I will try to find a step up nipple connector for the vacuum test tomorrow, mightbe hard on the weekend we willsee

what you guys think i should do?

 

[IDave]

I found my "T" and nipple adapter in the True Value Hardware store. Any NAPA would have your spark plug gap tool. So would Sears. My hand held tachometer from Sears has a dwell setting that lets me know if the points gap is correct. I guess they still make them that way.

I would:

1) Gap the plugs: .031-.035 in.

2) Check the dwell: 38 - 44 degrees

3) Set the timing: 7 degrees BTDC at 500 RPM

4) Attach vacuum gauge and report back.