- Thread starter
- #281
The tub and all the body bits go to the media blasters tomorrow 
destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter destin
- Start date
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dmaddox
SILVER Star
Destin,
Nice job cleaning up the frame. Now, just take a prepsol type agent, or a lacquer thinner and a terry cloth or old wash rag that is clean, and wipe everything down good with the towel and then don't touch it afterward.
Then, I used a brush (not kidding) and a quart of POR15 and i put down a sheet of painters plastic.
It took me two days (a coat each day) to do the entire frame. The brush strokes flow out so you won't be able to see them. I used satin black as I didn't want the frame to gleam and stick out.
I did the same for the axles and leaf springs. Just brush it on and let it flow out. The brush will allow you to get into all the nook-n-crannies. Use gloves, and old clothes. POR15 won't come out.
I know this was in my thread showing my tail-light, but my entire frame looks like that:
....so as you can see it flows out nice.
Another note Destin, is that there is another product out with the SAME ingredients as POR15 and it's called Frame and Chassis Saver. Designed for exactly what you are doing here and is about 15 dollars less than POR15. To be honest, it's what I used Same crap, different label. You can goop it on, but don't make a big drippy mess, and then leave it over night and apply another coat the next day.
This process just takes longer but is in my opinion MUCH cheaper than powder coating, I am not going to be sliding over nasty rocks anyway, and will last a LONG time.....as I anticipate you and I will be taking good care of our rigs.
With that in mind, find a good radio station and get ready to spend a good 5-6 hours painting. You were born in a good year (i was December of 77) so I know you have sweet skills and stuff.
Later bro,
Dallas
Nice job cleaning up the frame. Now, just take a prepsol type agent, or a lacquer thinner and a terry cloth or old wash rag that is clean, and wipe everything down good with the towel and then don't touch it afterward.
Then, I used a brush (not kidding) and a quart of POR15 and i put down a sheet of painters plastic.
It took me two days (a coat each day) to do the entire frame. The brush strokes flow out so you won't be able to see them. I used satin black as I didn't want the frame to gleam and stick out.
I did the same for the axles and leaf springs. Just brush it on and let it flow out. The brush will allow you to get into all the nook-n-crannies. Use gloves, and old clothes. POR15 won't come out.
I know this was in my thread showing my tail-light, but my entire frame looks like that:
....so as you can see it flows out nice.
Another note Destin, is that there is another product out with the SAME ingredients as POR15 and it's called Frame and Chassis Saver. Designed for exactly what you are doing here and is about 15 dollars less than POR15. To be honest, it's what I used
Same crap, different label. You can goop it on, but don't make a big drippy mess, and then leave it over night and apply another coat the next day.This process just takes longer but is in my opinion MUCH cheaper than powder coating, I am not going to be sliding over nasty rocks anyway, and will last a LONG time.....as I anticipate you and I will be taking good care of our rigs.
With that in mind, find a good radio station and get ready to spend a good 5-6 hours painting. You were born in a good year (i was December of 77) so I know you have sweet skills and stuff.
Later bro,
Dallas
- Thread starter
- #283
very cool Dallas!
Brushing it on sounds way easier
Yeap I am rocking the cheap am fm radio in the shop
Did you use marine clean then pre with metal ready?
Or just lacquer thinner / acetone wipe?
Looks smooth man
Brushing it on sounds way easier
Yeap I am rocking the cheap am fm radio in the shop
Did you use marine clean then pre with metal ready?
Or just lacquer thinner / acetone wipe?
Looks smooth man
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Destin,
I ran out and took two more pictures for you of my frame up close.
and...
again, the brush strokes flow out well enough for a frame. If you look really close in the top of the 2nd photo you can "kinda" see some.
Spraying would be choice, but I wanted it THICK on there, and I still had my engine and brake lines, and exhaust attached....so brushing worked well. I'll let you be the judge I guess.
g'night bro,
Dallas
I ran out and took two more pictures for you of my frame up close.
and...
again, the brush strokes flow out well enough for a frame. If you look really close in the top of the 2nd photo you can "kinda" see some.
Spraying would be choice, but I wanted it THICK on there, and I still had my engine and brake lines, and exhaust attached....so brushing worked well. I'll let you be the judge I guess.
g'night bro,
Dallas
- Thread starter
- #285
Damn that looks nice man!
Thanks for the extra pics
Super stoked now
Thanks bro!
Thanks for the extra pics
Super stoked now
Thanks bro!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
I used Palmolive soap and HOT water, let that dry out well, and then I used a terry cloth with lacquer thinner and wiped it down really good, especially the areas where grease gathered up (paint won't stick to oils).
Dallas
- Thread starter
- #287
dope!
Thanks man
Thanks man
- Thread starter
- #288
Hey Dallas
What kind of brush did you find that works best?
What brush did you use to get inside the frame?
Hopefully ordering some paint today
What kind of brush did you find that works best?
What brush did you use to get inside the frame?
Hopefully ordering some paint today
i've never used that chassis stuff but don't use POR that shiat sucks. I've used zero rust with better results. You can brush most stuff on and it'll flow and not leave brush marks. Just remember if you have rust under there and you paint over it it's going to still rust.
Just take the engine and axles off and get the frame dipped and epoxy painted.
Just take the engine and axles off and get the frame dipped and epoxy painted.
Any paint store (or even the big box stores) should have brushes for oil-based paints. Buy the best one they have. Actually, you probably want a couple, one wider and one narrower.
Don't paint from the can. Pour some paint into a container and work with that. It's less messy and preserves the quality of your unused paint, especially when the can might be open for long periods of time.
I saw another build thread where the guy used a (new!) toilet brush to get inside the frame. I guess the stiff bristles were good for forcing paint into all the cracks and joints. The inside of the frame doesn't have to be perfect, does it?
- Thread starter
- #291
Any paint store (or even the big box stores) should have brushes for oil-based paints. Buy the best one they have. Actually, you probably want a couple, one wider and one narrower.
Don't paint from the can. Pour some paint into a container and work with that. It's less messy and preserves the quality of your unused paint, especially when the can might be open for long periods of time.
I saw another build thread where the guy used a (new!) toilet brush to get inside the frame. I guess the stiff bristles were good for forcing paint into all the cracks and joints. The inside of the frame doesn't have to be perfect, does it?
Thanks
I will clean off the surface rust before painting
- Thread starter
- #292
What is crappy about the por15 ?
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Destin,
I think we have to take into consideration what our long term goals are. For my rig, I am not going to be thrashing it over rocks, running it through door-deep water, or winching it over massive obstacles.
I will build another cruiser for that purpose. THIS FJ45 is going to be a once a month or more weekend mountain cruiser. It will likely not do anything more difficult than a forest road trail to some great mountain views....
With that in mind, a frame clean/prep/brush paint job will suffice and look as good as a powder coat for the most part.
Is the best solution dipping and powdercoating, probably. However to answer your questions I used a small 1" brush, a small 2" brush, and then a long handled 1.5" to get inside the frame. It will turn out great, whatever you choose to do.
Later man,
Dallas
I think we have to take into consideration what our long term goals are. For my rig, I am not going to be thrashing it over rocks, running it through door-deep water, or winching it over massive obstacles.
I will build another cruiser for that purpose. THIS FJ45 is going to be a once a month or more weekend mountain cruiser. It will likely not do anything more difficult than a forest road trail to some great mountain views....
With that in mind, a frame clean/prep/brush paint job will suffice and look as good as a powder coat for the most part.
Is the best solution dipping and powdercoating, probably. However to answer your questions I used a small 1" brush, a small 2" brush, and then a long handled 1.5" to get inside the frame. It will turn out great, whatever you choose to do.
Later man,
Dallas
dmaddox
SILVER Star
If you do not prep properly, apply it against the directions, and then roll over a rock, it will flake off like it were cereal glued onto your frame.
Some people have had bad experiences with it. But again, what are YOU going to be doing with your rig?
dmaddox
SILVER Star
On another note, I used "VanSickle" Tractor and Industrial Farm paint (flat black) on a tractor frame. It is super durable, the tractor has been sitting outside for 15 years, abused, thrashed, and beat.....and it looks like I applied it 3 months ago.
::: Van Sickle Paint Company :::
So again, it is how WELL you prep......
::: Van Sickle Paint Company :::
So again, it is how WELL you prep......
- Thread starter
- #296
Cool thanks man
Can I paint it over the old paint yeah?
I am using my rig for minor trail riding and exploration, no crazy rock crawling
Can I paint it over the old paint yeah?
I am using my rig for minor trail riding and exploration, no crazy rock crawling
pardion
SILVER Star
Destin, If you need the correct oil filter I should have an extra one. PM if needed. Thank's, John
- Thread starter
- #298
Thanks John.
I have the correct one in my basement
Gonna swap it out when I redo the manifolds / heat riser this winter etc
- Thread starter
- #299
power washed / degreased the frame today
Couple of questions...
Some of the paint is coming off when i am pressure washing ( 1500 psi )
Should I apply metal ready to season it even though some spots still have paint?
Might degrease and power wash it again tomorrow just to be sure it is clean
some pics:
Couple of questions...
Some of the paint is coming off when i am pressure washing ( 1500 psi )
Should I apply metal ready to season it even though some spots still have paint?
Might degrease and power wash it again tomorrow just to be sure it is clean
some pics:
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Yo Destin! That frame is looking awesome!! Isnt it nice not having a rusted POS!?!?
Far as prep and paint...Ospho from Ace hardware at 10$ a bottle is very similar to metal ready I think.
Phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in both.
I used ospho on my interior repaint...spraying it on the baremetal/old paint letting it sit a bit then wiping off with a clean rag.
I also picked up some pre paint cleaner from the auto paint shop...same deal spray on wipe off.
Check my paint thread for the name of the cleaner stuff.
I would be pretty tempeted to just use brush on rustoleum in your choice of black...gloss is best rust protection. You can paint over it with a coat of satin or flat if you like that look better! That frame is in awesome shape and I dont think I would cover it with 1/4" of POR. Thats just me...I also hate bedliner so dont even think about it!!! LOL Anything that can "delaminate" from the surface and leave an area for water to get trapped stays away from my 40.
Far as prep and paint...Ospho from Ace hardware at 10$ a bottle is very similar to metal ready I think.
Phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in both.
I used ospho on my interior repaint...spraying it on the baremetal/old paint letting it sit a bit then wiping off with a clean rag.
I also picked up some pre paint cleaner from the auto paint shop...same deal spray on wipe off.
Check my paint thread for the name of the cleaner stuff.
I would be pretty tempeted to just use brush on rustoleum in your choice of black...gloss is best rust protection. You can paint over it with a coat of satin or flat if you like that look better! That frame is in awesome shape and I dont think I would cover it with 1/4" of POR. Thats just me...I also hate bedliner so dont even think about it!!! LOL Anything that can "delaminate" from the surface and leave an area for water to get trapped stays away from my 40.
