Desmogged 2F Tune-up (1 Viewer)

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gregnash

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
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Location
Carson City, NV
Ok so I have been somewhat dreading this moment of a while.
BeBe runs pretty well as she stands right now but the dieseling issue has never gone away. Now that I was able to fix the Carb Fan the hot start issue is gone but this week I ordered a full tune-up kit from Georg @ Valley Hybrid.

The kit I got from him has the following:
- OEM Spark Plugs
- OEM Fuel Filter
- OEM Distributor Cap
- OEM Rotor
On his recommendation I picked up the NAPA Premium Spark Plug Wires this afternoon as he said that the OEM wires were super expensive ($80) and not needed.

This weekend I plan to try and tackle this but with all my research I have yet to find a good write-up on how to do a good tune-up to the 2F engine. There are many threads out there that have different information posted between them but for those of us that have never done a tune-up like this or it has been a VERY LONG time (for me probably at least 20yrs), I am looking for some good pointers on what is needed, what to do, etc.

I do have the following:
- inductive timing light (and know how to use it... kinda :hillbilly:)
- proper socket set
- torque wrench
- plug gap tool
- FSM (for those looking, hit the link in my sig and then the 2F Engine Repair Manual is the one you want)

I will do my best to take pictures as I do this so that I can ensure that SOMEONE down the road will be able to use it as a possible guide.
 
Last edited:
I always put anti- seize on the threads of the spark plugs, however I have not yet changed mine out on my 2F. I don't see why it would hurt on a 2F, so maybe this can be confirmed?
 
It's really pretty simple: Just replace everything you've listed with the new parts, check timing. Use some dielectric grease (permatex) on the spark plug boots (both ends) and as suggested, check plug gap, small dab of antisieze on the plug threads (don't over tighten), and check your timing - and that's about it.... You leaving a valve adjust for another time ?

Make sure you put the plug wires back on the proper plugs :D
 
You need to start a good tune-up with a valve adjustment...
 
So just walked in the door and this is waiting for me this weekend... Getting a bit tense...:crybaby::bang::wrench::wrench:


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

And to answer a few questions...
- Running the valves will be left for when I work on the carb, replace manifold gasket and do the galley plug later on this spring/summer (at least when it is warmer)
- Dielectric grease is usually included in the package. Only a small thing in there so looks like I will be headed back to grab something larger
- Anti-seize will be purchased as well when I grab the above
- I remember seeing torque values in one of the FSMs for the spark plugs so will work on that

My main concern is that the PO admitted that he had set it to about 11* or so (if I remember correct) basically advancing it to compensate for the 5 million different vacuum leaks. With that I have yet to be able to find the "BB" that is 7* BTDC for my timing mark. I know that once I see everything I will be able to make things happen easily and I know this is an easy job but since this is my DD while it is cold out (and I have been ill so the wife wont let me ride) I need it to be functioning.

That, on top of the fact that I am a visual person and seeing things always makes them better. So like seeing where the inspection cover for the flywheel is and how to remove that so I can clean the flywheel to see the damn BB and mark it better is something I "need" to see.

Once the puzzle starts to fit together then, THEN everything falls into place quickly for me and I am fine. I am hoping this will be for those that have other questions and/or need that extra little visual assistance.
 
Finding that BB is difficult. Mine is timed to it and I still can't find it... really.

I've never used anti-sieze on my spark plugs, and have never had a problem. OEM plugs should be gapped correctly. And I never use dielectric grease. It's on my horn ring but not on the spark plug wires. I probably should do that though.

There are 7 bolts on the flywheel inspection cover. Five are accessed from the bottom and the other two are on the "front" of the bell housing to the left and the right of the motor. Might be oily in there. Mine always is :)
 
Thanks Kline that is why I want to get in there and find the damn thing...
So here is a question, I have read that if you put the tranny in 4th gear and move the vehicle slightly, you should be able to move the flywheel. But this "rocking" motion of pushing the truck back and then letting it go forward will that not cause the flywheel to move back into spot? If all else fails, can I just raise the rear and then spin the wheels to allow myself to find the BB.

My underside is definitely engine is definitely nasty so I am hoping to get a chance to see if there is excessive grease/oil in there that would lead me to assume the rear main is leaking. That was the reason that I bought a can of engine degreaser, will be mostly using it on the underside before I do anything.
 
gregnash said:
Thanks Kline that is why I want to get in there and find the damn thing...
So here is a question, I have read that if you put the tranny in 4th gear and move the vehicle slightly, you should be able to move the flywheel. But this "rocking" motion of pushing the truck back and then letting it go forward will that not cause the flywheel to move back into spot? If all else fails, can I just raise the rear and then spin the wheels to allow myself to find the BB.

My underside is definitely engine is definitely nasty so I am hoping to get a chance to see if there is excessive grease/oil in there that would lead me to assume the rear main is leaking. That was the reason that I bought a can of engine degreaser, will be mostly using it on the underside before I do anything.
Click to expand...

Yeah you can put it in 4th, e-brake off, bump the truck and move the flywheel around. It will not bump back to where it was because it is in gear and it rotates with the tires. If the tires stop, the flywheel stops. Although reading your post again if the truck moves back to where it was then the flywheel may not change position.

I prefer to do it with the plugs out and the transmission in neutral. You can fit a socket on the alternator shaft bolt and "tighten" it to rotate the engine. That way you don't have to move the vehicle, and you can rotate it pretty easily. By having the plugs out there is no compression to work against.

Or I suppose you could jack up the rear end, have it in 4th and spin the tires. I'd probably go the alternator method though.

I'm guessing you'll have your fill of oil when you get under there. Have some good soap on hand :hillbilly:
 
If plugs are out its real easy to move engine while underneath and just grab the flywheel I think I did it with the plugs still in.
 
I just put an appropriately sized socket on a ratchet and turn the engine with the nut on the alternator pulley. Works fine so long as I remember to put the trans in neutral.

To be fair, it's kind of a pain to get it in there between the shroud and the pulley, but it works, and doesn't take any supernatural amount of strength.
 
cruiserAUS said:
If plugs are out its real easy to move engine while underneath and just grab the flywheel I think I did it with the plugs still in.
Click to expand...

This. ^^

If you don't have the right socket for the big pulley, you can put it in gear and gently bump til you find the timing marks on the FW ... Then mark the pointer and BB (or hole if BB is missing - mine was) with white paint and it's much easier to see when timing.

:steer:
 
Ok so for those that are unsure this is the inspection cover... I originally thought that this was part of the transmission and thus if I removed the bolts (you can see one is busted in the top right corner) that I would empty the tranny fluid. The bolts are 12mm and like Kline said, there are 7, two of which are actually facing the front of the engine the rest on the underside of the pan.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Once they are all off (I had to use an extension just to get some room on two bolts) this is what you will see

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
Mine was pretty dirty inside but no real excessive oil, so looks like my rear main is ok.

Now if you put the truck in neutral you can grab the flywheel and spin until you find the TDC mark and BB (or mine was missing the BB).
Here is what it will look like. Do yourself a favor and grab some yellow, white, bright colored paint and paint both. If nothing else use some white out and mark them, just mark them and you will be amazed at seeing them later when you attempt to use the timing light.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

And here she is... that mark is actually pretty big (I only had a que tip to paint the marks) but looking at it she is retarded to about 2 or 3* at idle.. When I jump her up to about 1k rpm I can barely see the BB in the window which means she is retarded to about 4*. I did this more to just see if my handy work had, well, worked and it did!! Now I am back out to take care of the rest.


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
 
Ok got a new batch of pictures downloading but here is the question... My wires do not say which goes to which? I am assuming that they are all meant for the same thing so I should just be putting the #1 port on the cap to the number #1 cylinder yes?

Also, the cap only went on one way, so what I dont understand is what do you turn to advance/retard the timing?
 
So here is the new fuel filter.

WORD OF ADVICE - be sure to vent your tank prior to pulling the lines off the old one! All you have to do is open the gas cap then go change the filter! LOL

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Sad old cap and plugs

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

So the number one cylinder plug was fine
But here is #2?

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Here is #3

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Here is #4

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Here is #5

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Here is #6 (pretty clean compared to 2-5)

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

So with the oil on there do I have Blow By going on?
 
The plugs look good to me, dry and consistent. The oil on the base of the plug could have come from a leaky valve cover gasket?
 
Plugs look pretty much text-book good.

I know Toyota hoses are good, but you might consider swapping out the heater hoses, eventually...
 
To advance / retard the timing, you need to loosen the bolt into the slot at the base of the dizzy - 'front' side, and then use a flat blade screwdriver to get the dizzy moving, after it's loose you should be able to adjust it by hand while running... be careful around the fan / belts, can be a three hand circus if you are aiming the timing light as well as reading the tachometer and swiveling the dizzy.
HTH
Cheers
 
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