Desmogged 2F Tune-up

[gregnash]

Ok so there are three bolts/screws that hold down the cap, are you talking the one most forward of the engine (i.e. faces the radiator)?

Got everything plugged in and ready to go. She fired right up and at idle, looking with the timing light, she sits the exact same which was to be expected.

 

[SteamerF18]

Greg I can't find a pic but I'll go outside and take one if you need it. The bolt isn't on the dizzy cap, it is down the distributor, towards the front of the truck close to the engine block. 12mm bolt IIRC, once you loosen it a bit you can rotate the dizzy with one hand while you hold the timing light with the other, just as micruz60 said.

HTH, Scott

 

[gregnash]

Ah ok... I did see something down there and was wondering if that was what I was looking for.

So odd development. The truck sat for a while and warmed up, didnt touch anything. I went inside to talk with the wife after the mailman came by and when I went back out the idle was up to 1k? It held there like it had always been there so I remembered my dad gave me a tachometer and figure out how to hook that up and set the idle to about 800rpm on the tach. Went back inside to grab the wife to go and grab some groceries and when we came back out, maybe another 10 minutes, the idle was down to about 500-600rpm?!

 

[gregnash]

I will handle the timing in the morning. Thanks for all the help guys and hopefully this will help someone else..

 

[Elbert]

Better look into the shop manual because I assume the ECM controls the idle speed? If you make manual adjustments without following whatever process there is...you probably will have some issues.

Forget what I said above, but on a carb engine you should only set the idle when the engine is fully warmed up and the choke is fully off.

 

[gregnash]

Oh and almost forgot... found this in the bottom of the flywheel inspection pan... Anyone have a clue what it is?


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

 

[Trapper50cal]

That's a piece of your flexplate...





























no, actually I have no idea what that is. - just kidding.

 

[klinetime574]

Oh and almost forgot... found this in the bottom of the flywheel inspection pan... Anyone have a clue what it is?

That's a clip for the throwout bearing. Don't know much about them. But I will in a week or so

 

[Pighead]

That's one of the two clips that hold the throwout bearing carrier to the clutch fork.
If it's the bottom one, easy to put back on. If it's the top one, PIA.

 

[klinetime574]

I got some pictures that may help you gregnash

My clutch fork and throwout bearing

Distributor hold down bolt, that thing covered in funk

I have my transmission off right now. These pictures I've taken have helped in a few threads already haha

(throwout bearing is covered with gear oil (heck everything is inside the bellhousing) which is why the transmission is out )

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for the pic Kline, that is exactly what SRF was describing and what I figured was there after I saw it this afternoon.

For the throwout bearing, yeah dropping the tranny for me ain't going to happen. What in your picture is the throw out bearing so I can see tomorrow if I can get my man hands in there and push the bugger back in place.

 

[klinetime574]

No problem. Yeah it will be tight if it is the top clip that fell off, but you should be able to get it.

 

[Joe_E]

Plugs look pretty much text-book good.

I know Toyota hoses are good, but you might consider swapping out the heater hoses, eventually...

That S hose in the pic that comes off pipe on block to the rear heat is NLA.
I used the 90 degree L hose and trimmed it a little. It works.

 

[skidplate]

The "U" shaped clip would be one of these. Hopefully the one on the bottom.

 

[gregnash]

Well got the tach out, the timing light and found the bolt with Kline's pictures help. I was even able to get my mixture screw to turn out a couple more turns that were sorely needed. She is now dead on at 7* and idles nicely at abou 750rpm. Man she does drive differently that is for sure.

Thanks for all the help guys!!

 

[brett76]

lol i dont have any cips on my fork for the throwout bearing. i didnt even know it had any. i remember thinking that it was strange when i rebuilt my transfer case that it would just slide in there. havent had any problems though. damn

 

[micruz60]

BeBe's happy, everybody's happy, good to hear that you got 750 rpm idle, that is spot on, all part of the tune up. Now you ought to do the valve lash adjustment... makes one, one with the rig! There is something about being inside the cover that takes one to another level with the machine, that sewing machine sound. As for rotating the crank to get TDC, like it was said before, pull all the plugs, (least compression / friction) I've had great luck with just pulling on the top belt (alternator) towards myself, standing at the passenger fender. Rubber coated work gloves are essential. That Clip for the throwout bearing is a PITA to get right, but with brett76's comment, if the throwout bearing is in place and on the shift fork, how can it get in trouble??
Cheers!

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for all the help again guys. I have been driving her around for a couple days now and she definitely is a different truck. Much happier idling at 7* (as opposed to the 3-4* she was at), no more dieseling (which feels so odd now) and just seems happier. I do have an issue that I need to resolve as when she is warm she idles nicely at 750rpm and oil pressure reads fine but once I go to drive around the block the idle then drops to just over 500rpm and oil pressure drops to the lower hash mark.

Next is going to be the knuckle rebuilds, but before that is the new stereo headunit so I can actually listen to something other than the radio!!!