Definitive list of AHC maintenance items (3 Viewers)

[PADDO]

LC AHC coils are a little bit cheaper than LX coils. They aren't an identical part (6.5 turns v 5.5, longer, smaller wire diameter) but by all accounts LCs are an equivalent to LX coils i.e. They do the same job.
Purchase whatever techstream version and mini vci you can obtain from whatever source. The most recent versions will interface with later model Toyotas/Lexus and all versions from 7 on will interface with 100s/LXs. I don't know that any one pirate source is better than another.
Many have their techstream running on later versions of Windows directly and others have it running in an emulation mode. There are so many options and variables here it's worth going to dedicated YouTube sites or any of the Toyota forums (tundra, 4Runner etc) that have threads dedicated to techstream and finding what works for you and your PC. A few are running it on Win tablets and report that it's a straight forward install.

 

[nnnnnate]

I just got Techstream setup on a Win7 (x86) netbook and these are the pressures I got after dropping to low then back to nuetral:

Front: 7.7
Rear: 7.4
Accumulator: 10.5

From what I understand these numbers are a little high. Test was done with me sitting in the driver seat with a full tank of fuel. Third row is removed but I've got a tote with some gear in the back thats maybe 60 lbs, its otherwise stock. When I bought it I did the low to high check on the reservoir and had 14 ticks between the two.

I picked up 2 cans of AHC fluid from CruiserOutfitters on Monday and hope to be able to do a drain-n-fill soon. Other than that are there recs on how to proceed? It just rolled 82k miles the other day on the way home from work.

Thanks. (I can upload a screenshot if there were other values that would help to see.)

 

[PADDO]

Pretty standard approach to dialing this in, and yes your F and R pressures are a bit high.
First, on flat ground check and adjust front cross level, you should be able to easily get in within 1/4". One turn on one torsion bar bolt will lift/lower that corner approximately 1/8". Engine doesn't need to be on for cross level check/adjustment. Wheels on the ground, if the TB bolts are really tight you can raise to H to take some preload off. Use penetrating oil liberally if they haven't been adjusted in a while. Breaker bar doesn't hurt either.
Second, measure all four corner heights at N with engine running and AHC settled. If you have 19.75F and 20.5R hub center to fender bottom you are very close to stock spec height. Adjust height sensors if necessary, engine off, to avoid potential injury.
Lastly, hook up techstream and check pressures, same number of CW turns on both TB bolts to lower pressure, one turn (on both bolts) will lower pressure about 0.2MPa (CCW to raise pressures). Target front pressure is 6.8 - 6.9MPa. All you can do for the rear pressure is to ensure you aren't physically too high and then you may need to add 30mm spacers to get the pressure down a reasonable amount or ideally, new AHC coils AND spacers to get the pressure down to the lower end of its design range of 5.6 - 6.7 MPa. Expect a small variance in the front height sensor height values, if they fall within say 0.3" from 0 there isn't any need to tweak them. Best just to see how it all plays out. Additionally, lowering the front pressures also has a positive effect on the rear, and vice versa.
I know the FSM says to adjust pressures with full tank of gas etc etc well lately I've been adjusting pressures with the vehicle set up how I normally drive it and that's with 2nd and 3rd row seats out, 1/2 tank gas and my tool box, myself in the drivers seat. I just think it makes better sense that way. If I'm loading up for a trip I readjust TBs as necessary, it only takes a minute.
HTH

 

[Drogon]

I purchased two cans of ach fluid to bleed the system. Im checking on your opions and knowledge if my globes are to corroded to try and bleeding myself. Im worried the bolts my break or get stuck during the process. Or should I leave this job to the dealer, or wd40 the crap out the bolts myself and dive in?

I did the globe check and got 14 marks between high and low, so the are in good working order. However, I'm currently low on fluid, two marks below minimum while in N. I am the third owner and the don't appear to have been bled before...

 

[elk]

Try a long 10mm socket on the fittings instead of a box wrench. Be careful to only turn about 1/16 before removing and switching to the bleeder hose and box wrench. Also, give each fitting a liberal spritz of PB blaster the night before you change the fluid. You will be fine.


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[Drogon]

Sent from my iPhone [/QUOTE]

Try a long 10mm socket on the fittings instead of a box wrench. Be careful to only turn about 1/16 before removing and switching to the bleeder hose and box wrench. Also, give each fitting a liberal spritz of PB blaster the night before you change the fluid. You will be fine.

Thanks for the advice. I will give it a shot this weekend.

Would it be worthwhile applying some por15 to these components, or could it damage them? Not to the bolts and threaded pieces of course...

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[PADDO]

@elk gives good advice, use a socket to crack each bleeder being careful not put undue force off axis. Maybe start your PB basting now, daily, before you do your fluid exchange. I'd consider procuring new bleeders (about 90c each last time I checked) and some new rubber caps too. For baselining purposes its probably worth popping off each of the steel damper assembly connector shields/covers and cleaning and preserving the connectors, same goes for the connectors on the leveling and gate valve block too (just follow the hydraulic lines back to the block near the height accumulator. I (thankfully) don't have any experience with POR15 but I understand prep is key for these sorts of products to work as advertised. I'm thinking if you replace your bleeders with new caps, clean and preserve the connectors and liberally apply fluid film all over the damper assemblies and hydraulic lines you'll be in pretty good shape. I fluid film everything and live in a zone where they salt once, maybe twice a year. (Almost as pretty bum as @SWUtah) I would recommend us (mud) and a little perseverance on your part over taking it to a dealer for this job

 

[Drogon]

@elk gives good advice, use a socket to crack each bleeder being careful not put undue force off axis. Maybe start your PB basting now, daily, before you do your fluid exchange. I'd consider procuring new bleeders (about 90c each last time I checked) and some new rubber caps too. For baselining purposes its probably worth popping off each of the steel damper assembly connector shields/covers and cleaning and preserving the connectors, same goes for the connectors on the leveling and gate valve block too (just follow the hydraulic lines back to the block near the height accumulator. I (thankfully) don't have any experience with POR15 but I understand prep is key for these sorts of products to work as advertised. I'm thinking if you replace your bleeders with new caps, clean and preserve the connectors and liberally apply fluid film all over the damper assemblies and hydraulic lines you'll be in pretty good shape. I fluid film everything and live in a zone where they salt once, maybe twice a year. (Almost as pretty bum as @SWUtah) I would recommend us (mud) and a little perseverance on your part over taking it to a dealer for this job

Thanks for reviewing and advise!

 

[Drogon]

Does the fluid come out of bleeders in front of the bolts that i loosen or behind them? Can you tell it's my first time bleeding fluid...lol

 

[IBWOZ]

The Ahc fluid will come from the end of the fitting when you turn the bleeder . That's why you need to put the tubing over to drain . Otherwise you will have a high pressure mess . Just use the already posted directions and you will be fine . A little diy pm will boost your mechanicle confidence . Nothing to it but to do it .

 

[Drogon]

The Ahc fluid will come from the end of the fitting when you turn the bleeder . That's why you need to put the tubing over to drain . Otherwise you will have a high pressure mess . Just use the already posted directions and you will be fine . A little diy pm will boost your mechanicle confidence . Nothing to it but to do it .

Sounds good, thanks.

 

[uHu]

I purchased two cans of ach fluid to bleed the system. Im checking on your opions and knowledge if my globes are to corroded to try and bleeding myself. Im worried the bolts my break or get stuck during the process. Or should I leave this job to the dealer, or wd40 the crap out the bolts myself and dive in?

I did the globe check and got 14 marks between high and low, so the are in good working order. However, I'm currently low on fluid, two marks below minimum while in N. I am the third owner and the don't appear to have been bled before...

Doesn't look too bad, the rust.
If you have 14 grad's, and the globes are old, I would check if the heights and pressures are right. 14 is a number for new(ish) globes.

 

[Drogon]

Doesn't look too bad, the rust.
If you have 14 grad's, and the globes are old, I would check if the heights and pressures are right. 14 is a number for new(ish) globes.

After I complete the bleed I'm going to order the software from amazon to check the pressure. I'm assuming the globes have not been replaced...

 

[PADDO]

The damper globes will more than likely have a manufacturing date sticker, that'll correlate with your vehicle or not and tell you if they are original.

 

[Drogon]

The damper globes will more than likely have a manufacturing date sticker, that'll correlate with your vehicle or not and tell you if they are original.

If the sticker is correct they are original. Date of March 2000...

 

[Drogon]

Ok, I'm diving in and bleeding the ach tomorrow morning. A few more questions...
After I bleed each of the five points, is it necessary to dried the vehicle 400 feet, or can I just turn on the vehicle in N to let the system draw in fresh fluid?
Does the bleeder points have a rubber caps on the end? I am trying to determine if mine does...pic attached.

 

[uHu]

Ok, I'm diving in and bleeding the ach tomorrow morning. A few more questions...
After I bleed each of the five points, is it necessary to dried the vehicle 400 feet, or can I just turn on the vehicle in N to let the system draw in fresh fluid?
Does the bleeder points have a rubber caps on the end? I am trying to determine if mine does...pic attached.

The rubber caps are missing.
Read up on bleeding ahc, and you'll know the answers.

 

[Drogon]

All done, and went well. Only odd notable thing is the height accumulator stopped bleeding prematurely after about 2-3oz of fluid came out.
Thanks again everyone, saved 100.00 by doing this myself.

 

[uHu]

Congrats.
That's the way it is with the cylindrical accumulator, it stops abruptly. To bleed more, you have to lower it to LO, and up to N or Hi again.

 

[PADDO]

All done, and went well. Only odd notable thing is the height accumulator stopped bleeding prematurely after about 2-3oz of fluid came out.
Thanks again everyone, saved 100.00 by doing this myself.

Glad you got it sorted out, now let's get your tape measure ready and techstream up and running for the heights and pressures!