Definitive list of AHC maintenance items (5 Viewers)

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Fresh/fresher springs and/or airbags.
 
No cranking for the rear right?

How soon do I need to replace the coils?

And last, the threads on TB Bolts are one longer than the other, do I need to equalize the threat or no? ( adjust)
 
Shouldn't the accumulator be 10.4??

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1437769779.688378.jpg
 
Don't worry about the height accumulator pressure, there is nothing you can do to adjust it and I've seen 9.8 to 10.7 MPa before. There is no adjustment for your coils like there is for the TBs, it's repair by coil replacement or augment with spacers (30mm to be effective) and/or install airbags for temporary help and extra load support. The proper solution is to replace your coils with new and there is lots to be gained by installing spacers at the same time. It's not urgent you do this but prolonged high pressures can't be good for the system (think weeping shocks) and the ride is so so much better when the pressures are in the lower end of the pressure ranges. I'd stay clear of reindexing TBs ATT.
Just noticed your fluid temp is 158F, pretty warm! I'd expect that could be influencing your pressure readings.
 
Paddo. I appreciate ur response and help. Saved my system :)
It was exactly 6 turns for both TB to get 7.0. But what did you mean "I'd stay clear on the TB ATT" ?
What about the thread length question previously , one longer than the other??

Thanks again.
 
Re your thread length question - reindexing is how you get more adjustment bite on the 30mm adjustment bolts, differing thread lengths can be addressed that way. I'm sure it's something that probably doesn't need to be addressed immediately. As long as you're cross level and can get your pressures down I'd call it a day.
 
Thank you!!
I will replace the coils when the weather is nice. Also will see and search about the spacer.
 
Hello yal,

thanks for the great posts. Need some final step help here.
See my pressure displays 0 for all three values, anyone know how to config it to read the pressure value correctly? @yuji did it while back, but did not indicate how.. Is it version issue? (am using ver. 8x)

thanks in advance,
techstream pic (2).jpg
 
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Ahh, it worked. Thanks for the tip! Much appreciated.

So, from this, tasks at hand is to balance the cross (differential value in FR, FL Height Sensor) first, and then lower the Value of Pressure sensor, both by cranking the T-bar (clock wise). Right? and leave the accumulator press sensor alone, as nothing can be done on it?

ACH Before.jpg
 
Your front pressure is pretty high. If it were me, and it has been, I would adjust your tbars first to get your front pressures down. This pressure accumulators are expensive and over pressure is a good way to wear them out faster. Getting the .4" difference sorted out with the front sensors shouldn't be too hard, but I'd you can only do one, I'd break out that 30mm socket and increase the tension on the tbars, equal turns on each side.
 
Ahh, it worked. Thanks for the tip! Much appreciated.

So, from this, tasks at hand is to balance the cross (differential value in FR, FL Height Sensor) first, and then lower the Value of Pressure sensor, both by cranking the T-bar (clock wise). Right? and leave the accumulator press sensor alone, as nothing can be done on it?

View attachment 1133181
The Left/Right lean has to be measured at a Steering Angle of less than +-36 (it's 45 in the pic above here). Only then is the Gate Valve open, and you get the same pressure on the right and left sides. When the wheels are pointing straight, the steering angle should read zero (+-5). When you turn right or left, more than 36 deg on the steering wheel, the gate valves will close in order to limit roll.
Edit: Later found out that: The steering angle comes into effect only while driving, not while standing still. So, we can measure heights/lean and pressures regardless of what the streering angle sensor reads. (/end edit)

Always, before adjusting springs and reading pressures, check the ride height. If the sensors are not adjusted to the correct height, the pressures will be off. With that high front pressure, I suspect that the front is too high (or that you have a winch bumper installed). Remember to always set the height to Lo first, and then to N, and wait 30 secs before reading the values. The reason for this is that there are actually no pressure sensors at each corner; what you get is a reading of the pump pressure sensor at the moment when the valve of the corresponding accumulator is open and when the height at that end reaches zero (=N). This is what is called Neutral Pressure.

(You can of course connect a pressure gauge at each corner (or use the t0yota LSPV Gauge Kit) and see the actual pressures, which are different than the TechStream ones, and specified in the FSM.)
 
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The first task at hand is to take height reading at all four corners, these are your baseline references. Don't touch height sensors yet. Your front pressure of 10.8 is ridiculously high, it should be 6.9 MPa and your rear reading should be closer to 6.0 MPa. The rear height sensor reading of +1 inch is odd.
On level ground with no additional weight in the vehicle measure the height at all four corners. Front, stock, should be 19.75 and rear 20.5 hub centre to fenders, vehicle running and settled.
Adjust the torsion bars as necessary to get the front cross level. When cross level then apply equal turns to both adjuster bolts, clockwise to tighten the bars and lower pressure. No need to touch height sensors unless you need to raise or lower the front. 1 full turn on both torsion bar bolts will lower pressure 0.2MPa.
Rear height sensor reason should be close to 0.0 inch at N with 20.5 inches between fender bottom and hub centre. You' may need to adjust the sensor here. Always have vehicle engine OFF if fiddling with height sensors.
Getting that front pressure down will also lower the rear pressure a small amount and it's a bit of an iterative process. You will most likely not be able to get the rear pressure down into the mid to low 6.0 range without replacing the coils.
 
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Thanks guys! Am greatful for the detail instructions. One more question, (couldn't find the answer, or i missed it). I have 275/70/18 tire. Its approx. 1.5 inches higher than the stock on 18 rim. Is it a factor in determining heights in the context?
 
No tire size doesn't matter because you're measuring the height between the centre of the axles and body. This method is kinda rough, and not as per the FSM, but it's close enough.
 
Will give it a shot. By the way, thank you for all your wonderful support through this forum. I just upgrade my account to show appreciation. Thanks gain.
 
Hi everyone,

I thought I would check my globes by putting the suspension in low and then in high, while marking the oil level at each setting. I posted a picture of the low setting being five marks above the max level indicator, and the high setting being about five marks below the min. level indicator. So it appears I have about 14 marks between the two levels.

When my vehicle is in the neutral setting, the oil level is two marks below the min. level indicator, is this normal or should I add some ACH oil?

Thanks for any input!

ACH Oil.jpg
 
14 graduations is about as good as it gets, new globes basically. Your fluid level is a little low if it's two grads below min at N. I set mine at max, or a bit higher even, at N but anywhere between min and max at N is fine. If you haven't done a fluid change and bleed in a while it's probably worth either topping off the level (re cap the can and keep in a place where the contents won't be contaminated) or I'd just dump the whole 2.5L can in and do a quick light bleed of all 5 points to get the level back between min/max at N. Probably not urgent unless you're looking at doing some massive inclines in the near future. Worst case is you get air in the system and then you get to do a comprehensive bleeding.
 
Preparing to replace the rear coil springs on my '04 LX470. I notice people have mentioned purchasing the LC AHC springs instead of Lexus AHC springs. Why?

Also, if I go to the link provided for the techstream software and VCI cable, it is out of stock. Any other suppliers or links? Amazon? Also if I have a modern windows laptop is there a way to boot to XP mode or anything like that? Or am I relegated to finding an older laptop?
 

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