Definitive list of AHC maintenance items

[Urtwob]

"Also we had put in New AHC fluid at that time as well so the most recent AHC fluid was only a few months old."
So I understand this to mean: Had some AHC fluid leftover unused in a bottle, used when installed shocks. That AHC system worked okay last few months, with this few month old fluid. I recall also you had primed the new shock (likely, seen any jell in fluid). So not likely any jell in fluid!

Thankfully I have not come across any signs of this gel. Unfortunately we have used a lot of new AHC fluid. I shall explain.
Approximately 2 years ago we had to replace a burst AHC Pipe.
I flushed and replenished all AHC fluid at that time.
Then when we installed new AHC struts last week, sadly I had driven the truck with burst strut so I lost nearly all fluid in system. Therefore we are basically replenishing with all new fluid again. Or at least we are trying to. Our problem is that I can’t get AHC system to work now.
If it had still been functioning we would be flushing out or bleeding entire system with new oil.
This plan has stalled as AHC won’t work.

This is where we are at, still trying to diagnose problem.
Active Test won’t work.

We are very fortunate in that Indrocruise has been giving me step by step instruction which I am going through meticulously. And true to form many other forum members like you have been assisting as well with valuable guidance and observations.
Such a brilliant Forum and what a resource for us all.
I certainly feel blessed.

So all new fluid at both events from two years ago. But currently stalled as AHC won’t go.

Indrocruise has given me a comprehensive list of investigations to go through.
As yet no faults uncovered but it will all come good.

 

[Urtwob]

First check that Rear Height Control Sensor and linkage was not damaged when working on Shock Absorbers and Springs. This can happen -- and if so, that can be enough to put the AHC system into 'fail safe mode' which prohibits AHC operation and so pump will not work. Rear Height Control Sensor is located on the cross-member in front of the rear differential with a linkage to the LHS Rear Upper Control Arm

If all good, then suggest try "Active Test" as mentioned in late edit to my previous post to see if that will get the AHC system operating again. Techstream is not necessary for this purpose.

Good (Irish) morning.
I hope you are well.

If possible Can you please advise how I test the rear AHC height sensor.

Thank you.

 

[2001LC]

Good (Irish) morning.
I hope you are well.

If possible Can you please advise how I test the rear AHC height sensor.

Thank you.

First look to see if arm balls move freely and overall condition.

I suggest you root around the forum for: pdf of factory service manuals (FSM)

 

[Urtwob]

First look to see if arm balls move freely and overall condition.

View attachment 2966794


I suggest you root around the forum for: pdf of factory service manuals (FSM)

Absolutely Brilliant.
This is what I need.
I did have the sensor off this morning.
Opened it up and it was in 1st class order.
The balls in the link arm are in good shape as well.
But with this info I can now check it out for connectivity 100%

As regards FSM I must admit Indrocruise has already given me the link and I have not yet got my head around how to use it.

A Final question to the Forum
Is there any software like TechStream for connecting the LC100 to a MacBook or an IPhone?

Thank you.

 

[2001LC]

Is there any software like TechStream for connecting the LC100 to a MacBook or an IPhone?

Thank you.

Oracle VM virtrualbox. Is what I use in windows 10 to run my XP version of tech stream. May work for Apple to PC. But I'm no software guru, so root around. There's also some wireless drivers around, use on smart phones.

I've blue drive for iphone. But sadly will not give AHC data.

 

[IBWOZ]

Sorry for hijacking this thread but I was cleaning out my garage this weekend and found an OE canister of AHC fluid from when i had a LX470 . A quick search yielded the exact canister in going for $70 on the bay now . If anyone here is in the NWA/SWMO area is interested feel free to contact me . I have no use for it any longer .

 

[Urtwob]

Sorry for hijacking this thread but I was cleaning out my garage this weekend and found an OE canister of AHC fluid from when i had a LX470 . A quick search yielded the exact canister in going for $70 on the bay now . If anyone here is in the NWA/SWMO area is interested feel free to contact me . I have no use for it any longer .

What a descent thing to offer.
I suppose NWA/SWMO area is a couple of miles to far from Northern Ireland

I’ll just have to accept some other lucky person will benefit from your outstanding good character.

I must say it’s really good to see some good people still exist in this crazy world.
I tip my hat to you IBWOZ

 

[IBWOZ]

What a descent thing to offer.
I suppose NWA/SWMO area is a couple of miles to far from Northern Ireland

I’ll just have to accept some other lucky person will benefit from your outstanding good character.

I must say it’s really good to see some good people still exist in this crazy world.
I tip my hat to you IBWOZ

That would be northwest Arkansas / southwest Missouri area but if i was in Ireland it would be all yours for the price of one pint .

Sláinte​

 

[Urtwob]

That would be northwest Arkansas / southwest Missouri area but if i was in Ireland it would be all yours for the price of one pint .

Sláinte​

If your ever over here, a cool Guinness is waiting for you any time. Or perhaps you might prefer an Old Bushmills Whiskey. It is made only 15 miles from my home, next door to The Giants Causeway.

 

[medtro]

First look to see if arm balls move freely and overall condition.

I suggest you root around the forum for: pdf of factory service manuals (FSM)

"then apply voltage about 4.5 V between terminals 2 and 3" may not be correct. I would connect a voltmeter between terminals 2 and 3 if I was doing this test.

 

[2001LC]

"then apply voltage about 4.5 V between terminals 2 and 3" may not be correct. I would connect a voltmeter between terminals 2 and 3 if I was doing this test.

Looks like a typo. I see in picture, as apply 4.5 Volt +1 & -3. Check with voltmeter between 2 & 3.

 

[IndroCruise]

Good (Irish) morning.
I hope you are well.

If possible Can you please advise how I test the rear AHC height sensor.

Thank you.

Good (Eastern Australian) evening @Urtwob -- and Good (Irish) morning!

“As regards FSM I must admit @IndroCruise has already given me the link and I have not yet got my head around how to use it”.

Over to you to explore the Index Panel at LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io/ as previously described. Meanwhile attached is the relevant AHC-diagnostic extract from that version of the Factory Service Manual (FSM). This PDF extract really is important reading for anyone trying to think through the AHC-related problems.

“If possible, can you please advise how I test the rear AHC height sensor”.

Yes – that can be described.

Firstly, your report “Active Test won’t work” is noted with concern. It must be said that whatever problem there may or may not be with your Rear Height Control Sensor, it certainly is not of itself the cause of the “Active Test” not working -- although the Height Control Sensors certainly are capable of delivering other problems (including the 'fail-safe' function described at Page DI-224 in the attachment).

The “Active Test” is a very important AHC 'health indicator' -- even (or especially) when it does not work. Each time I have been in a discussion where the “Active Test” has not worked, the cause has been either (1) occasional incorrect procedure, details not quite followed exactly -- sometimes that has required just a gentle reminder to close all doors and tailgate, or, (2) more often, the AHC ‘system’ has not allowed power to get through to the motor driving the AHC Pump, even if the pump motor operation has been tested separately by direct connection to a 12 volt source and been found healthy.

The point is that in the case of (2), that indicates a serious and fundamental problem which cannot be ignored.

The search then begins for the cause or fault in the AHC ‘system’ and/or a physical fault which is results in power supply not arriving at the motor driving the AHC Pump while under the control of the ECU (not by direct connection of the motor to a 12 volt supply). This was discussed in Posts #914 and #915 in this thread.

Or if power is arriving but the AHC Pump stops abruptly under "Active Test", then suspicion about a AHC Pump blockage arises.

Meanwhile, back to Height Control Sensors ….

The attachment comes from the “DIAGNOSTICS” section of the FSM and is the entire AHC Diagnostics section. Go to pages DI-224 to DI-228 in this attachment to see the three (3) steps in the Inspection and Test Procedure for the Height Control Sensor Circuits, as already discussed by @2001LC and @medtro. It is worth noting that sometimes the Japanese-to-English translations in the FSM are awkward and this can be distracting. I can say that I have personally used this test procedure for Height Control Sensors as described and found the description to be accurate and reliable.

Here is a bit of a primer on Height Control Sensor circuits, in case it is of assistance.

General description:

How deterioration occurs -- and the Height Control Sensor eventually becomes "worn out" :

Test extract (note again -- about 90 degrees of arc between "LO" height and "HI" height, with "N" height at mid-swing):

Internal components -- heavily deteriorated in this case:

 

[Urtwob]

Good (Eastern Australian) evening @Urtwob -- and Good (Irish) morning!

“As regards FSM I must admit @IndroCruise has already given me the link and I have not yet got my head around how to use it”.

Over to you to explore the Index Panel at LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io/ as previously described. Meanwhile attached is the relevant AHC-diagnostic extract from that version of the Factory Service Manual (FSM). This PDF extract really is important reading for anyone trying to think through the AHC-related problems.

“If possible, can you please advise how I test the rear AHC height sensor”.

Yes – that can be described.

Firstly, your report “Active Test won’t work” is noted with concern. It must be said that whatever problem there may or may not be with your Rear Height Control Sensor, it certainly is not of itself the cause of the “Active Test” not working -- although the Height Control Sensors certainly are capable of delivering other problems (including the 'fail-safe' function described at Page DI-224 in the attachment).

The “Active Test” is a very important AHC 'health indicator' -- even (or especially) when it does not work. Each time I have been in a discussion where the “Active Test” has not worked, the cause has been either (1) occasional incorrect procedure, details not quite followed exactly -- sometimes that has required just a gentle reminder to close all doors and tailgate, or, (2) more often, the AHC ‘system’ has not allowed power to get through to the motor driving the AHC Pump, even if the pump motor operation has been tested separately by direct connection to a 12 volt source and been found healthy.

The point is that in the case of (2), that indicates a serious and fundamental problem which cannot be ignored.

The search then begins for the cause or fault in the AHC ‘system’ and/or a physical fault which is results in power supply not arriving at the motor driving the AHC Pump while under the control of the ECU (not by direct connection of the motor to a 12 volt supply). This was discussed in Posts #914 and #915 in this thread.

Or if power is arriving but the AHC Pump stops abruptly under "Active Test", then suspicion about a AHC Pump blockage arises.

Meanwhile, back to Height Control Sensors ….

The attachment comes from the “DIAGNOSTICS” section of the FSM and is the entire AHC Diagnostics section. Go to pages DI-224 to DI-228 in this attachment to see the three (3) steps in the Inspection and Test Procedure for the Height Control Sensor Circuits, as already discussed by @2001LC and @medtro. It is worth noting that sometimes the Japanese-to-English translations in the FSM are awkward and this can be distracting. I can say that I have personally used this test procedure for Height Control Sensors as described and found the description to be accurate and reliable.

Here is a bit of a primer on Height Control Sensor circuits, in case it is of assistance.

General description:
View attachment 2967353

How deterioration occurs -- and the Height Control Sensor eventually becomes "worn out" :
View attachment 2967359

Test extract (note again -- about 90 degrees of arc between "LO" height and "HI" height, with "N" height at mid-swing):
View attachment 2967355

Internal components -- heavily deteriorated in this case:
View attachment 2967356

Thank You Indrocruise
This is very helpful.
We have not had much time to work at truck recently but we hope to get back to it by Monday. (Family bereavement)

May I just digress to another subject for a moment please.
A friend of mine has asked me to ask a question for him.
He would like to know if the standard Non AHC shocks and springs out of an 80 series will fit a LC100.

He has access to a crashed 80 series with very low miles, sadly it is beyond repair. The 80 series vehicle had just had all springs and shocks replaced before the crash.

However he has a LC100 AHC model but he is going to remove the AHC and fit standard Springs and shock absorbers.
Therefore he wondered if the springs and shocks of this donor LC80 series coukd be used on his LC100.

Thank you for any guidance

 

[IndroCruise]

Thank You Indrocruise
This is very helpful.
We have not had much time to work at truck recently but we hope to get back to it by Monday. (Family bereavement)

May I just digress to another subject for a moment please.
A friend of mine has asked me to ask a question for him.
He would like to know if the standard Non AHC shocks and springs out of an 80 series will fit a LC100.

He has access to a crashed 80 series with very low miles, sadly it is beyond repair. The 80 series vehicle had just had all springs and shocks replaced before the crash.

However he has a LC100 AHC model but he is going to remove the AHC and fit standard Springs and shock absorbers.
Therefore he wondered if the springs and shocks of this donor LC80 series coukd be used on his LC100.

Thank you for any guidance

I have never owned nor worked on an “80 series” vehicle, so I will leave it to more knowledgeable others to chime in if they can answer your question.

The “80 series” chassis and suspension are very similar to the “105 series” of which I have had several, although many years ago – HZJ105 with HZ diesel engine (not turbo) and FZJ105 with 1FZ-FE 6-cylinder gasoline (petrol) engine. The “80 series” and “105 series” have some mechanical similarities – including a Rigid Front Suspension (RFS), sometimes called a Solid Front Axle, similar to the Solid Rear axle. This arrangement is completely different to the Independent Front Suspension (IFS) on “100 series” including Toyota LC100 with AHC and all Lexus LX470. For example, the IFS versions have Front torsion bars instead of the springs found on the front of “80 series” and “105 series”.

If an “AHC Delete” is being considered on a “100 series” vehicle with IFS and AHC, then at least the following non-AHC parts will be needed, along with a boxful of associated fittings and bushes:

Front torsion bars,
Front shock absorbers,
Rear coil springs,
Rear shock absorbers

The torsion bars and springs and shock absorbers will need to be much heavier duty than the AHC versions, and at least must be similar to those found on non-AHC “100 series” IFS models. This is because the removal of the AHC system means that a conventional system must now take over that part of the load and duty formerly carried by the AHC system. AHC Rear OEM coil springs are visibly slender. Often they are replaced/upgraded with KING KTRS-79 springs (good for permanent or frequent loads) and/or airbags are added inside the coils (good for occasional or temporary loads). I have done both of these upgrades to ease AHC pressures -- but that may be overkill.

If you are taking springs of any kind from any wreck, you really need to know exactly what they are. There are many different springs available for non-AHC “100 series”, both OEM and after-market. You need know the spring free length (unloaded, when not fitted to the vehicle), and ideally the ‘spring rate’, or alternatively the brand and model of spring, to get an idea of the capability of the spring. These details determine how the vehicle will ride and also the height or permanent ‘lift’ built into the suspension. If the springs of interest are Toyota OEM springs, then a coloured paint mark on the spring may be help identify the specific model and part number of the spring,

As you probably know from observing posts on “100 series” suspension matters on IH8MUD, there are two tribes: (1) those swear by AHC/TEMS, and, (2) those who swear at AHC/TEMS.

Search “AHC delete” on IH8MUD to discover a lot of detailed experience and knowledge and opinions on AHC removal.

Personally, the AHC system would have to be absolutely derelict, or neglected and perhaps internally damaged such as with use of incorrect fluid, or riven with rust, and beyond salvation, before I would delete it. Others may have a different view.

I note your post here on a different thread.

 

[Urtwob]

Thank You Indrocruise
This is very helpful.
We have not had much time to work at truck recently but we hope to get back to it by Monday. (Family bereavement)

May I just digress to another subject for a moment please.
A friend of mine has asked me to ask a question for him.
He would like to know if the standard Non AHC shocks and springs out of an 80 series will fit a LC100.

He has access to a crashed 80 series with very low miles, sadly it is beyond repair. The 80 series vehicle had just had all springs and shocks replaced before the crash.

However he has a LC100 AHC model but he is going to remove the AHC and fit standard Springs and shock absorbers.
Therefore he wondered if the springs and shocks of this donor LC80 series coukd be used on his LC100.

Thank you for any guidance

 

[Urtwob]

I have never owned nor worked on an “80 series” vehicle, so I will leave it to more knowledgeable others to chime in if they can answer your question.

The “80 series” chassis and suspension are very similar to the “105 series” of which I have had several, although many years ago – HZJ105 with HZ diesel engine (not turbo) and FZJ105 with 1FZ-FE 6-cylinder gasoline (petrol) engine. The “80 series” and “105 series” have some mechanical similarities – including a Rigid Front Suspension (RFS), sometimes called a Solid Front Axle, similar to the Solid Rear axle. This arrangement is completely different to the Independent Front Suspension (IFS) on “100 series” including Toyota LC100 with AHC and all Lexus LX470. For example, the IFS versions have Front torsion bars instead of the springs found on the front of “80 series” and “105 series”.

If an “AHC Delete” is being considered on a “100 series” vehicle with IFS and AHC, then at least the following non-AHC parts will be needed, along with a boxful of associated fittings and bushes:

Front torsion bars,
Front shock absorbers,
Rear coil springs,
Rear shock absorbers

The torsion bars and springs and shock absorbers will need to be much heavier duty than the AHC versions, and at least must be similar to those found on non-AHC “100 series” IFS models. This is because the removal of the AHC system means that a conventional system must now take over that part of the load and duty formerly carried by the AHC system. AHC Rear OEM coil springs are visibly slender. Often they are replaced/upgraded with KING KTRS-79 springs (good for permanent or frequent loads) and/or airbags are added inside the coils (good for occasional or temporary loads). I have done both of these upgrades to ease AHC pressures -- but that may be overkill.

If you are taking springs of any kind from any wreck, you really need to know exactly what they are. There are many different springs available for non-AHC “100 series”, both OEM and after-market. You need know the spring free length (unloaded, when not fitted to the vehicle), and ideally the ‘spring rate’, or alternatively the brand and model of spring, to get an idea of the capability of the spring. These details determine how the vehicle will ride and also the height or permanent ‘lift’ built into the suspension. If the springs of interest are Toyota OEM springs, then a coloured paint mark on the spring may be help identify the specific model and part number of the spring,

As you probably know from observing posts on “100 series” suspension matters on IH8MUD, there are two tribes: (1) those swear by AHC/TEMS, and, (2) those who swear at AHC/TEMS.

Search “AHC delete” on IH8MUD to discover a lot of detailed experience and knowledge and opinions on AHC removal.

Personally, the AHC system would have to be absolutely derelict, or neglected and perhaps internally damaged such as with use of incorrect fluid, or riven with rust, and beyond salvation, before I would delete it. Others may have a different view.

I note your post here on a different thread.

Good Afternoon Indrocruise

Back to the AHC project;

I have been going through all the suggestions and guidance as per your inputs, (sadly i am not to physically mobile) so progress is slow.

One thing i forgot to mention was that i have both inspected and tested all AHC fuses and Relays.And i have inspected the rear AHC height sensor. The rear sensor looked in almost new or perfect condition., however As yet i have not carried out the electric current test on the sensor.

I must also admit l omitted to comment clearly on the following,

Every time l insert key in ignition and go for a basic "start-up" of the vehicle, in this i mean not an "Active-Test" just a standard start up,
So Insert Key, and turn on Ignition, but do not start yet, The AHC combination indicator shows the AHC light on "LO" illuminated, there will be no "OFF" blinking, I then proceed to push the UP button and the indicator light rises up through N to Hi.

If l then stand with my hand on the AHC Motor, and ask a colleague to Start the Vehicle, the Motor give a clunk or a slight thud very soon after the vehicle is started ie within 2-4 seconds, and at the same time as the slight thud is felt, the AHC LIGHT "OFF" illuminated and the "OFF" Blinks every second.
In my opinion this feels like the AHC Motor tries to run but there is a solenoid kick in and blocks the motor from running, or causes immediate pressure build up causing the pressure sensor to kick in or close a solenoid resulting in immediate pressure build up and then the Ahc pump is instructed to close off or stop.

Sadly as yet i have not been able to get the "Active Test" to bear fruit.
I have not yet been able to get the pump to pump in "Active-Test" so therefore no oil or air comes out when i go to bleed the accumulator or any of the 4 spheres.

May i ask,
What is the precise journey of the fluid? ie, from AHC pump to "???" and from "???2" to and from "???3" to ect ect
Does the fluid from the AHC leave the AHC and go to the longish barrel shape Accumulator first, ( on my RHS chassis rail between the rear and front globes) or does it go to the Levelling Manifold before going to the main accumulator?

I ask this because i have though about ( In Active-Test Mode but very cautiously running the motor direct from a 12v supply) following the output pipe from the AHC pump to the next "Joint" and opening the pipe there to see if the AHC will pump fluid through to this point, and if it does, tighten up that pipe and go to the next point where i can open the fluid line and try follow / push the fluid through the system as far as i can.
I fully understand that normally the respective solenoids will prevent this, but is this the case while we are in "Active-Test" mode, my theory is the solenoids might not be active, or perhaps more accurately worded, they might be in an "open" state and might leave the fluid free to flow through the system.

One final question,
Is it crucial to Delete all DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) before trying any action such as "Active-Test"
Or to re-word that question, If there are still active DTC's do they or could they prevent the "Active-Test" from working.

Please bear with me, i do understand if i study the FSM i should learn these things. However i am still only finding my way through the FSM and i admit i do at times get confused.
Albeit i fully acknowledge trying to follow the FSM but operating via manual testing without a Handheld computer such as Techstream, is a serious handicap.
As yet i have not found or settled my mind on a Handheld device that will operate on my Macbook or Iphone.
i am reluctant to route out any old Mackintosh laptops, i really wish to move on with an ios compliant computer.

Thank you my dear and patient friends;

 

[Urtwob]

I have never owned nor worked on an “80 series” vehicle, so I will leave it to more knowledgeable others to chime in if they can answer your question.

The “80 series” chassis and suspension are very similar to the “105 series” of which I have had several, although many years ago – HZJ105 with HZ diesel engine (not turbo) and FZJ105 with 1FZ-FE 6-cylinder gasoline (petrol) engine. The “80 series” and “105 series” have some mechanical similarities – including a Rigid Front Suspension (RFS), sometimes called a Solid Front Axle, similar to the Solid Rear axle. This arrangement is completely different to the Independent Front Suspension (IFS) on “100 series” including Toyota LC100 with AHC and all Lexus LX470. For example, the IFS versions have Front torsion bars instead of the springs found on the front of “80 series” and “105 series”.

If an “AHC Delete” is being considered on a “100 series” vehicle with IFS and AHC, then at least the following non-AHC parts will be needed, along with a boxful of associated fittings and bushes:

Front torsion bars,
Front shock absorbers,
Rear coil springs,
Rear shock absorbers

The torsion bars and springs and shock absorbers will need to be much heavier duty than the AHC versions, and at least must be similar to those found on non-AHC “100 series” IFS models. This is because the removal of the AHC system means that a conventional system must now take over that part of the load and duty formerly carried by the AHC system. AHC Rear OEM coil springs are visibly slender. Often they are replaced/upgraded with KING KTRS-79 springs (good for permanent or frequent loads) and/or airbags are added inside the coils (good for occasional or temporary loads). I have done both of these upgrades to ease AHC pressures -- but that may be overkill.

If you are taking springs of any kind from any wreck, you really need to know exactly what they are. There are many different springs available for non-AHC “100 series”, both OEM and after-market. You need know the spring free length (unloaded, when not fitted to the vehicle), and ideally the ‘spring rate’, or alternatively the brand and model of spring, to get an idea of the capability of the spring. These details determine how the vehicle will ride and also the height or permanent ‘lift’ built into the suspension. If the springs of interest are Toyota OEM springs, then a coloured paint mark on the spring may be help identify the specific model and part number of the spring,

As you probably know from observing posts on “100 series” suspension matters on IH8MUD, there are two tribes: (1) those swear by AHC/TEMS, and, (2) those who swear at AHC/TEMS.

Search “AHC delete” on IH8MUD to discover a lot of detailed experience and knowledge and opinions on AHC removal.

Personally, the AHC system would have to be absolutely derelict, or neglected and perhaps internally damaged such as with use of incorrect fluid, or riven with rust, and beyond salvation, before I would delete it. Others may have a different view.

I note your post here on a different thread.

Good (Irish ) Afternoon Indrocruise

I hope you are well my friend,

Once again i need a little more advice.
I am running a BDC 2 Diagnostic test
I have positioned "Clip-Bridge" across terminals Tc and CG
Turned on Ignition and the "OFF" AHC light has produced the following code,
each number is seconds;

1-sec, on
1-sec, off
8s-on
2s-off
6s-on
1s-of
2s-on
4s-off
and then back ti start again.
1s-on
1s-off

I have gone through the FSM as supplied

Either i just havent "got-it" or its not there, but i cannot work out how to read these codes.
Is there a Chart somewhere telling what these sequence of on off blinks mean?

Thank you

URTWOB

 

[IndroCruise]

Good (Irish ) Afternoon Indrocruise

I hope you are well my friend,

Once again i need a little more advice.
I am running a BDC 2 Diagnostic test
I have positioned "Clip-Bridge" across terminals Tc and CG
Turned on Ignition and the "OFF" AHC light has produced the following code,
each number is seconds;

1-sec, on
1-sec, off
8s-on
2s-off
6s-on
1s-of
2s-on
4s-off
and then back ti start again.
1s-on
1s-off

I have gone through the FSM as supplied

Either i just havent "got-it" or its not there, but i cannot work out how to read these codes.
Is there a Chart somewhere telling what these sequence of on off blinks mean?

Thank you

URTWOB

Suggest do not despair nor give up yet. I will be happy to help and reply to your last two posts -- but it is just after midnight in my part of the world, so maybe during my tomorrow when I am thinking a bit more clearly, if that is OK with you?

 

[Urtwob]

Good (Irish ) Afternoon Indrocruise

I hope you are well my friend,

Once again i need a little more advice.
I am running a BDC 2 Diagnostic test
I have positioned "Clip-Bridge" across terminals Tc and CG
Turned on Ignition and the "OFF" AHC light has produced the following code,
each number is seconds;

1-sec, on
1-sec, off
8s-on
2s-off
6s-on
1s-of
2s-on
4s-off
and then back ti start again.
1s-on
1s-off

I have gone through the FSM as supplied

Either i just havent "got-it" or its not there, but i cannot work out how to read these codes.
Is there a Chart somewhere telling what these sequence of on off blinks mean?

Thank you

URTWOB

SORRY i meant to say i bridged contact on terminal DLC3

 

[Urtwob]

Suggest do not despair nor give up yet. I will be happy to help and reply to your last two posts -- but it is just after midnight in my part of the world, so maybe during my tomorrow when I am thinking a bit more clearly, if that is OK with you?

Absolutely my friend,
i hope i didn't disturb your rest.

i am privileged to have your assistance.
Thank you.