- Thread starter
- #41
Hmm. the carb is a rebuild from SOR...not a year old. Valve adjustment is fairly straightforward and it is due anyway. I haven't been under valve cover yet so I'll give that a go, first, and see what happens.
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Hmm. the carb is a rebuild from SOR...not a year old. Valve adjustment is fairly straightforward and it is due anyway. I haven't been under valve cover yet so I'll give that a go, first, and see what happens.
Let's see what the other guys say, but I've seen your exact issue a few times and it's always been carb related. Right @FishTown , @CenTXFJ60 ? Those are two guys that had the exact same symptoms, both were resolved with a carb swap.
If you're getting fuel to the bowl, then you know it's not a fuel pump issue. Do you have any local cruiser buddies that you can swap carbs with for a test run?
The valve job won't fix your problem, but it does need to be done anyway. Keep at it my friend.
If you're getting fuel to the bowl, then you know it's not a fuel pump issue. Do you have any local cruiser buddies that you can swap carbs with for a test run?
The valve job won't fix your problem, but it does need to be done anyway. Keep at it my friend.
- Thread starter
- #43
Well, I still have the one I took off that I could send to a guru for a rebuild. Who is the master?
For carb rebuilds, @FJ40Jim is the guy. It'll take weeks to get back and costabout $350 plus the ride both ways.
Others like @NeverGiveUpYota have tackled their own rebuild using videos from YouTube I think.
But just try bolting the old carb on again and see what happens. Maybe it's in better mechanical condition than the oneyou have now. It only takes 20 minutes to find out.
Others like @NeverGiveUpYota have tackled their own rebuild using videos from YouTube I think.
But just try bolting the old carb on again and see what happens. Maybe it's in better mechanical condition than the oneyou have now. It only takes 20 minutes to find out.
@FJ40Jim is the 2F carb guru. Do you have any videos of the mid-range hesitation sputter you're talking about? My truck was out of commission as I did a number of things including a valve adjustment, new plugs, new vac lines, new fuel filter, some gaskets/grommets, a new OEM carb insulator/heat shield, and a Trollhole carb. With all of this I was able to get a smooth idle. But under acceleration I was getting bad hesitation mostly in the lower-mid range. I tried a few different things, but got no change. Finally I put the old carb (it needs to be rebuilt) back on and the problem vanished. I've still never read anything bad about the Trollhole carbs, but I think I may have gotten a bad apple. All of this to say, try a different carb and see what happens. If that makes a difference, at least you have a starting point.
Trollhole Carb
Aisin Carb that needs a rebuild
Aisin Carb that needs a rebuild
- Thread starter
- #47
Hah! This is very interesting. When I got under the valve cover, the clearances were all super tight. I had to back off at least a half turn on each and I think they had used the same clearance for exhaust and intake. After adjusting, the gauge is showing 19.5 and is rock steady. Maybe the lash was so tight that the valves couldn't close all the way?
Problem solved? No more hesitation?
- Thread starter
- #49
Unfortunately, no. Hesitation still there but the engine is much happier and stronger than I've seen it. Vacuum hanging in at 19.5 inches. When I put my foot in it, and get it above 2500 RPM it goes smoothly. Below 1800 RPM it is fine, too. If I'm trying to gentle it around town, though, it hiccups.
I guess the next step is the carb. Reinstalling my old one is a no-go because it was toast...the reason I swapped it was because the secondary was completely inop. I'll either send it off, or try it on my own.....
Great work Curt. The vacuum gauge should look almost like it's pinned to the dial once your valves are adjusted properly. It sounds like they are. 19.5 in hg is great.
Now... you've narrowed the issue down to the carb. I would call SOR and see if they'll work with you on a replacement. I can't remember how long ago it has been done, but maybe it's out of their warranty by now.
FJ40Jim will not only rebuild it for you, but he will also install it on his shop FJ60 and tune it for you as well. It'll be plug and play when you get it back.
Now... you've narrowed the issue down to the carb. I would call SOR and see if they'll work with you on a replacement. I can't remember how long ago it has been done, but maybe it's out of their warranty by now.
FJ40Jim will not only rebuild it for you, but he will also install it on his shop FJ60 and tune it for you as well. It'll be plug and play when you get it back.
Mine were crazy tight too. An adjustment makes a huge difference. Did you run the truck post adjust w/o the cover on? Pretty awesome sight to see.
Have you readjusted your idle mix? Now that you are pulling proper vacuum. I like your original thinking of looking at the decel circuit since that corresponds to the 1800 rpm function. Vacuum above 14 and RPMs above 1800 engage the decel which closes off the idle circuit. I think the decel is a very important part of the carb and should not be grounded out. One way to lean or rich the primary circuit is to adjust float level. You have an extra carb laying around? Pull that thing apart and blow some compressed air through each little hole...see where it blows out, mess with the linkages, put some fluid under the plunger and push it down, and learn the carb. They seem complicated but it is really a pretty simple device if you look at each circuit individually.
- Thread starter
- #53
Not without the cover. It is very cool to see, though. The engine feels like it is saying "aaaah."
I have a link to a video of mine running w/o the cover post adjust. Not sure what page... (semi newish build thread) could be about 6 if you want to see.
Editing: I went and looked and couldn't find it so added the link to the thread I'd begun to page 17.
Editing: I went and looked and couldn't find it so added the link to the thread I'd begun to page 17.
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This is a pretty good read on the carb.
Search Results for Query: Carb Circuits - Aisin 2F FJ60 USA - Troubleshooting | IH8MUD Forum
Search Results for Query: Carb Circuits - Aisin 2F FJ60 USA - Troubleshooting | IH8MUD Forum
- Thread starter
- #56
So I'll dig into the carb....we'll see what SOR says about helping out. Their official warranty is 90 days. Guaranteed Carb, just across the bridge, has a rebuild for just under $300....and they put a lifetime guarantee on it. I'll see.
Meanwhile, I just shot a whole bottle of Seafoam into the carb and, I'm probably imagining, but it seems to have helped a bit.
Oh, and thanks guys...y'all have been amazingly helpful and patient. Especially @CaptClose and @Output Shaft . Y'all rock.
Meanwhile, I just shot a whole bottle of Seafoam into the carb and, I'm probably imagining, but it seems to have helped a bit.
Oh, and thanks guys...y'all have been amazingly helpful and patient. Especially @CaptClose and @Output Shaft . Y'all rock.
- Thread starter
- #57
Now that I'm focusing on the carb, there is this. Fuel in the sight glass, when the engine is off, is so high that I can only see it when I shake the truck. At idle, it is really low...can just barely see it in the bottom of the corner of the glass. Any change the fuel pump is wonky?
You're welcome Curt... although, I just regurgitate everything @Output Shaft and others have taught me. Soon, you will too.
You fuel in the sight glass is controlled by the float. All that should be fixed with a rebuild. Your fuel pump is fine.
Haa,
On my carburetor at least, for as long as I've owned the cruiser (since '88) & even after JimC rebuilt it a long time ago, the fuel level in the sight glass of the carb always showed about mid point while the engine was idling, but after sitting with the engine off for a while (like the next day) the fuel level would be below the sight glass & I have to shake the truck to slosh it around in the bowl below to be able to see it. Engine would always start.
Not sure if that's how they all behave, but that's how mine has always been.
But your symptom of light throttle hesitation cruising around town sounds like it could be momentary fuel starvation. Even a worn out accelerator pump can cause the engine to bog for a moment every time the gas pedal is pressed.
On my carburetor at least, for as long as I've owned the cruiser (since '88) & even after JimC rebuilt it a long time ago, the fuel level in the sight glass of the carb always showed about mid point while the engine was idling, but after sitting with the engine off for a while (like the next day) the fuel level would be below the sight glass & I have to shake the truck to slosh it around in the bowl below to be able to see it. Engine would always start.
Not sure if that's how they all behave, but that's how mine has always been.
But your symptom of light throttle hesitation cruising around town sounds like it could be momentary fuel starvation. Even a worn out accelerator pump can cause the engine to bog for a moment every time the gas pedal is pressed.