Dealer Says Don't Need To Lubricate Propeller Shaft

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Threads
17
Messages
391
Location
USA
Just left service desk at my dealer. I asked them to do the 30/35k service which includes lubricate and tighten propeller shaft. They said you don't do those any more. I asked why it would be listed, admitting I don't know what a propeller shaft is. They said they have generic listings of things to do for all cars, but LC doesn't need it. After doing a search here, that seems like BS, but can you guys fill me in?

I also asked them to check my diff and transfer case fluids because I drove through deep water after the hurricanes here. They said those systems are sealed, so it's unnecessary. I said that I knew they were sealed, but asked them to do it anyway just to be sure the fluid was fine after driving through high water. They were very adamant it was unnecessary, I had to say just do it and charge me. Thoughts?
 
find another dealer!
like tony said, sounds like they are lazy.
Either they don't know or don't care about the maintenance necessary on a cruiser; either way, they are not doing you any favors.
 
It's time to find another dealership. When the customer service survey shows up in your inbox, tell them why.
 
A propeller shaft (2 of them) connects the transfer case with the front and rear differentials. They have grease fittings on the universal joints (one on each end) and on the slip joint that allows the shaft to change length as the suspension flexes. Of course those fittings (6 in all) need regular greasing. It's inexcusable that a dealer would deny that, or that they would refuse high-profit work. What were they thinking? Also, if there was a chance you went under water so far the differential breathers were submerged, the fluid should be checked for water and maybe even changed. Again, high profit work refused? I hope you have an alternative dealer!
 
It's been an issue for many decades. All of Toyota's body on frame 4x4s and have zerk fittings in their prop shafts (drive shafts). 3 zerks at each prop shaft, front and rear, so 6 total.

Most dealers ignore this. I have buddies with 90s 4runners that have never had any grease pumped into them. It's a systemic issue as the dealers are so use to serving the high percentage of passenger vehicles that don't have such a thing.

Insist that they do it. It's in the documentation from the factory. I do it with every oil change.
 
Dealer service writer jobs are typically lower paying jobs, and many if not the majority of the people in those positions have little automotive knowledge.

I typically go in and try and spell out in great detail to them specifically what I am wanting done. Otherwise they try and sell you crap you don't need, and deny stuff like this, that clearly is needed.

My guess is, they get commissions if they sell you crap like 100.00 cabin filters everytime you go in, but they don't likely get paid anything extra for greasing some joints.

Also just because the service writer doesn't know there are gresable joints under there, doesn't mean the techs doing the work are that ignorant. Meaning if a good exspericed tech is working on it, he would likely grease them even if the service writer didn't spell it out for him on the ticket.
 
I’ve greased mine twice now and the vehicle is only 8 months old because the mileage service interval calls for it. It’s simple to do. Also checked the torque on the flanges. Everything is tight as I had expected. Just one more reason than none of my LC’s have ever been in a shop. They are just plain lazy.
 
I found a great independent shop close by, that recently hired a tech with Lexus training and experience. He got fed up with the games they play at the dealer. I watched him grease the shaft zerks and put a big torque wrench on the suspension bolts. He also pulled all the wheels to inspect the suspension, and rotated them without charging me separately.

He also sprayed penetrating oil on the KDSS service screws, but I did have to ask him to do that. But he knew exactly what they are, and why it is smart to keep them from rusting shut.... he’s a keeper.

You can’t choose or watch the tech who works on your 200 at a dealer. He is definitely not going to be a genius about Land Cruisers, but he may also be a marginally trained drone that does only lube jobs. If you are very lucky, he is an “adequate” mechanic. Do you want “adequate”?

Look for an independent that knows these trucks, or at the very least is willing to go the extra mile for you. If you tell us where you live (fix your signature) we could offer advice. If you live in Puget Sound, WA you need to visit Torfab in Everett.

I used to do all the work on my vehicles, including stuff like head gaskets, timing belts, and brakes, but at 64 I am just getting too darned sick of that way of spending my free time. But if you have the training, it is the ONLY way to be sure stuff gets done properly....

The really good techs don’t stay at dealers, they either open their own shops or work for an independent one. Go look for one near you!

John Davies
Spokane WA
 
Last edited:
What kind/brand of grease do you people use/recommend for the new (2017) drive shaft? I used to use Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing on my 2000 LC. Would the Mobil 1 syn grease be OK or do I need to stick with Toyota's grease?

Thanks....
 
Moly NGLI2, any brand.

Just try not to mix grease. It won't kill anything, but some additives may not be compatible with others.
 
Wow, well that was an ordeal. Arrived and was told they talked with their master mechanic, he confirmed no part needed lubricating. They asked if I wanted to see it, I said sure. They take me back there and right as they lift up the vehicle a young guy with a TEQ hoodie walks over and asks what we're doing. They explain, he says that's incorrect, they DO have zerks and DO need to be lubricated. He grabs the grease gun, shows me where and how. Everyone is amazed/astonished. They said the 30+ year master mechanic was wrong. This guy with the TEQ shirt was a new master mechanic and got one over on the senior guy. What a shame. Thanks for all the help/info guys. Now I know how to do it myself and will be doing so.
 
Happened to me at a San Antonio dealer, was a good lesson in learning to do It myself and I know for sure it’s done correctly
 
Wow, well that was an ordeal. Arrived and was told they talked with their master mechanic, he confirmed no part needed lubricating. They asked if I wanted to see it, I said sure. They take me back there and right as they lift up the vehicle a young guy with a TEQ hoodie walks over and asks what we're doing. They explain, he says that's incorrect, they DO have zerks and DO need to be lubricated. He grabs the grease gun, shows me where and how. Everyone is amazed/astonished. They said the 30+ year master mechanic was wrong. This guy with the TEQ shirt was a new master mechanic and got one over on the senior guy. What a shame. Thanks for all the help/info guys. Now I know how to do it myself and will be doing so.
That’s really sad. Toyota trucks have had driveshafts that need greasing for decades.
 
The red M1 grease runs like water when it gets hot. Spins out of the knuckles on the drive shafts. That is my experience and that of a number of race teams that work on my cars. The rear ratios are in the mid threes and the top gears are overdrive so the shafts are not spinning terribly fast. And Kentucky is not that hot. Your mileage may differ.
 
Last edited:
Wow, well that was an ordeal. Arrived and was told they talked with their master mechanic, he confirmed no part needed lubricating. They asked if I wanted to see it, I said sure. They take me back there and right as they lift up the vehicle a young guy with a TEQ hoodie walks over and asks what we're doing. They explain, he says that's incorrect, they DO have zerks and DO need to be lubricated. He grabs the grease gun, shows me where and how. Everyone is amazed/astonished. They said the 30+ year master mechanic was wrong. This guy with the TEQ shirt was a new master mechanic and got one over on the senior guy. What a shame. Thanks for all the help/info guys. Now I know how to do it myself and will be doing so.

Sounds like you know who to ask for next time! Certainly not Mr 30 year master Camry mechanic!
 
The red M1 grease runs like water when it gets hot. Spins out of the knuckles on the drive shafts. That is my experience and that of a number of race teams that work on my cars. The rear ratios are in the mid threes and the top gears are overdrive so the shafts are not spinning terribly fast. And Kentucky is not that hot. Your mileage may differ.
If the red M! spins out, is there a better grease like SWEPCO?
 
(Rolls up newspaper, gives a rap on the nose...) Bad, Bad, Bad dealer!
(Rubs nose in grease) Bad dealer, no donut!
 
I wonder about the prop shafts on Sequoias, Tundras, and 4Runners. Do they have zerks?

I know the 3-section shaft in our Highlander is not greaseable, which caused one u-joint to fail at about 150K. The shaft is also not serviceable, which forced me to have to buy an entire new shaft (all 3 sections AND carrier bearings, you can't buy just the section you need), which really pissed me off.

Trying to give the guy the benefit of the doubt, but still... that's pretty pathetic.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom