Dealer vs. ‘Mom and Pop’ Shops

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It’s all generalities. There are good and bad dealers. Good and bad dealer techs. Good and bad local shops. Good and bad local techs.
I found my local shop by watching how busy they are (very busy). And how often they are working late (pretty often). Their schedule is a couple weeks out. I went by to discuss a repair on my other car and they knew the engine, knew the issue, and knew that they could work around a frame/bolt location problem (transverse engine) to get the job done a couple hours shorter than book.

My only problem with the Indy is I have to request that they use OEM parts, and that causes them some delay as they have to get from the local dealer instead of their regular delivery service.
Usually adds a day to the repair turnaround.
 
This is from my own experience....cost on a transfer case seal was close to $3k at the PHX dealer and was less than $1k in DEN. I believe the PHX dealer was outsourcing the work...so makes sense.

It’s all generalities. There are good and bad dealers. Good and bad dealer techs. Good and bad local shops. Good and bad local techs.
I found my local shop by watching how busy they are (very busy). And how often they are working late (pretty often). Their schedule is a couple weeks out. I went by to discuss a repair on my other car and they knew the engine, knew the issue, and knew that they could work around a frame/bolt location problem (transverse engine) to get the job done a couple hours shorter than book.

My only problem with the Indy is I have to request that they use OEM parts, and that causes them some delay as they have to get from the local dealer instead of their regular delivery service.
Usually adds a day to the repair turnaround.
Experience is everything and that is how I would choose an mechanic....have they ever seen a LC or do they just think it is a larger Highlander?
 
Agree, I really believe the talent and expertise depends on the dealer and can be very regional. I would not take my Toyota 4X4 to a dealer in AZ for any major work...but trust the dealers in CO because they do see more of these trucks. This is from my own experience....cost on a transfer case seal was close to $3k at the PHX dealer and was less than $1k in DEN. I believe the PHX dealer was outsourcing the work...so makes sense.
Interesting. Zero issues at the dealer service in Scottsdale over the last 10 years.
 
Like I said, I would always take my LC to the dealer or shop that had the most experience with my car. I’m sure they are great if you drive an Avalon or Solara.😁

Everyone seems to have forgotten that Land Cruisers, including the 200, are made to be fixed in developing countries by mechanics with minimal experience and a Chiltons manual. They aren’t precious things like Bentleys or Ferraris. Any Toyota dealer can fix them just fine. That is why they are the overland vehicle of choice for global travel.
 
Any Toyota dealer can fix them just fine.
Plenty of evidence on here to the contrary, unfortunately.

Broken recirc doors
Not knowing they have greasable driveshafts
Busted trans pans bolts (personal experience)

I avoid dealers if it all possible, only use them for recalls. Have a local indy that I trust for annual stickers. Everything else gets done in my garage by me (although I understand that not everybody is able to do this)
 
I have yet to find a good Indy shop in my area that does much work on Toyota’s. I have a decent local shop can do oil changes and the like, but so can the Toyota dealer for less money, interestingly.

I have 3 local Toyota dealers that I have used in my 2016 LC. One is terrible, one is meh, one has been great. It helps to know what you want done and explain it in detail, because if you research stuff on Mud you may know more than the shop about LC’s. But I have had basic maintenance, front coil spacer install, to steering wheel replacement done ant the (good) dealer and all items have been done right. They try to put their senior mechanic on LC’s.

I avoid the Lexus dealer for our two RX’s, because they overcharge for everything. The work is done right but the cost is almost double. But the Toyota dealer is fairly competitive versus the Indy shops I’ve used.
 
Key difference between some guy with a screwdriver in Kenya compared to enough US service department techs to skew the results: Kenya guy cares.

Obviously we have great techs at Toyota dealers.. but there are enough bad ones to avoid the risk, if there are other options.
 
I have a different view, although Scottsdale is most likely different than the big cities;

In 3rd world countries mechanics are often very knowledgeable and have done this from a young age, although they will also use poor materials/patches to fix things. Getting your own good aftermarket or OEM parts is often the way to go.

In the U.S. many mechanics wish they could get another job and their boss is pushing for speed.

All in all Toyota or Lexus have many random clowns walking around and by default they are pushing to make money from you. Again, once out of warranty DIY or a self owned independent with whom you build a report is a good way to go and for any major jobs try to find a specialized place like the CCN.
 
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Having worked at both dealers and Indy shops, unless it’s a warranty item, id go to Indy all day everyday. One that I trust of course, and that’s sometimes tricky depending on your area.

I could go on a huge pages long diatribe about dealer shenanigans but will just say this:

Dealers have the backing of Toyota $ to fix mistakes they make. Indy’s do not. If Indy’s do shady stuff, and subpar work, they don’t have a huge brand to back them financially, so they’re automatically incentivized to do good work so it’s not coming back for repair on their dime. Otherwise, they don’t stay in business long

Of course there’s good and bad apples in both groups, but I’ve had so many bad experiences with dealers over the years, it’s totally a last resort for me.

My 2010 LC I’m redoing has a HUGE stack of receipts and work done at DEALERS only since new. So you think that’s good right? False

So far what I’ve found:
-all brake line bracket bolts on front end disconnected, but bolts are back in the hole (so they didn’t fall out) lines just flailing about
-almost all push pins under hood holding big plastic front engine cover on gone, entire thing held in with 1
-was last inspected at dealer 2k before I took possession, paperwork says brakes are good. Front pads were almost metal to metal and rotors worn way past tolerance
-note says strong vibration in steering wheel when HVAC is on and suggested replacing AC Compressor. It was just the fan under glove box
-tires were rotated at same inspection 2k before I got it. 3 lug nuts were barely hand tight.

Yeah…. I’m sure there are some good dealers, but they aren’t incentivized to do good work like the mom and pops are.

That’s my .04 (inflation)
 
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When an oil change is done the driveshafts should be greased as well. So you should see the plastic skids on the floor during that time.
If you don’t that’s a red flag.
 
Find a good Indy shop where there is no/little turn over - it helps to have the same tech work on your car. These aren’t really complex and it’s not that different than a Sequoia or Tundra. Just make sure they use genuine or Denso stuff. Honestly a good Euro shop ain’t a bad choice - they will buy stuff from Worldpac (quick access to Denso/Aisin), have sharp techs, and these are far less delicate than what they are used to.
 
Where in TN ? I’ve using reputable shop for years, and won’t go anywhere else.

And, I have the exact same cruiser, same year/color, a little more miles:

1740273121250.webp
 
I'm about to 'test' a dealer for the first time in 1000 years. Getting an oil change plus I'm having them look at my telescopic steering, because while I can usually fix this kinda thing, this one I can't figure out. (No in - out action)
 
I'm about to 'test' a dealer for the first time in 1000 years. Getting an oil change plus I'm having them look at my telescopic steering, because while I can usually fix this kinda thing, this one I can't figure out. (No in - out action)
Lock your glove box and keep the key blade with you!! This is the only way to completely avoid a broken recirc door.
Also before you leave give the skid plates a look.. they often put the bolts in the wrong locations.. or leave them off entirely.
 
Use your foot mirror🤣
 

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