Dave's Cruiser Questions (1 Viewer)

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Mmm, I think there is a bushing that goes around the pipe, that's compressed by the nut to seal it. Pull up the parts diagram on toyodiy to see what's in there.
 
On my laptop now. The sleeve is what I was thinking of, part 90410-25041. Is that there and not crushed to oblivion?

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On my laptop now. The sleeve is what I was thinking of, part 90410-25041. Is that there and not crushed to oblivion?

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Man.. I’m not seeing part 90410-25041 on here. However, I didn’t take the big nut (26801B) off because the pipe just slid out when the stud from the manifold hit it when I was wiggling the manifold out. I assume there is no sleeve or at least not functioning.
 
Dude...:lol: Part number 90410-25041 is the sleeve circled in red, with the red pointers. It is item 26601A in the parts diagram. I don't know why some items have full parts numbers, and some have abbreviated numbers (like the sleeve) but they do.

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So maybe I need a class on deciphering part numbers. Using the diagram provided, I cannot see where 90410-25041 came from in any way in reference to 26601A.

I figured the part number and a reference pic of the part I described would be enough. NBD, next time I'll fully explain.

Back to the problem at hand. You have a leak at that union. Was the sleeve present when you reassembled the EGR tube into the cooling block? If not (make sure to double-check) then that's the part you need.
 
I started tearing down the rear axle this morning to start clean-up and rebuild. Found this when I pulled the wheel off.

Any ideas why someone would weld a price of metal onto the drum...balance weight?

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The weld looks newer than the weight. I have seen weights on the driveshaft so this makes sense. Maybe the weight was loose with the rivets and if you have a welder, everything needs to be welded.
 
Ok..rookie mistake was made today 😞

Moving stuff around the garage today and I got my drive shaft pieces out of order.

The two slip yokes look to be slightly different lengths...which ( longer or shorter) goes with the rear axle shaft and which for the front axle?
 
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I have no idea Dave, but I love the fact you put this out there. Keep trucking brother.
 
@Comet haha...thanks, but “thoughts and prayers” won’t help this situation! I guess worst case I could pull one yoke on my driver and see which one it matches.
 
You got a 50/50 shot just like plugging a USB in.. Do you get that right on the first try? lol
 
@FJ Noob I can see the next question now. Guys, I dropped the yokes and they are three different lengths. I am giving up and driving jeeps from now on. HaHa!!!
 
I don't know offhand. The stock rear driveshaft is longer for sure, but I don't remember any difference in the slip yokes themselves
 
yes there are some subtle differences in the Cruiser/mini slip yoke lengths and outer sleeve inner and outer diameters over the years. I haven't seen any info to actually confirm where changes occur over different years. You just REALLY don't want a driveshaft to bottom out before the suspension travel is limited in that direction. (max bump or droop depending on shackle orientation), bad things happen
 
@NCFJ maybe you know since you have trucks in and out of your shop. Here's the original question....

Moving stuff around the garage today and I got my drive shaft pieces out of order.

The two slip yokes look to be slightly different lengths...which ( longer or shorter) goes with the rear axle shaft and which for the front axle?
 
If he doesn't know, then measure your companion flange distances and figure out which compressed/extended combinations of shafts/slip yokes fit in which location. You want at 1-2" of compression left in the driveshaft when installed.
 
That’s what I would do.
just put the different combinations together and measure which combination gives you the 1-2 inches of slip you need compared to the distance from your transfer case to your difs.
 

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