Dash refresh on a 1991 (1 Viewer)

[Izeloz]

I figured I would create a post about my ongoing dash refresh and repair and sound deadening installation. It's been a FAR bigger job that I anticipated. Hopefully someone will be helped by this. My dash was cracked in a few places and squeaking from somewhere on the left side. Being the typical cruiserhead, I have gotten way too deep with "while you're in there" stuff. Anyway, we all know what a dash looks like already installed in the truck, so I didn't start taking pics until disassembly was well under way. The dash is not difficult to remove ('91-'94) but there are a LOT of nuts, bolts, and screws. I recommend labeled plastic baggies and LOTS of pictures during this stage.

 

[Izeloz]

Getting deeper and starting to remove the OEM sound deadener. A combination of a hammer, chisel, heat gun, and kerosene worked well for this step. I hear dry ice works well, too.

 

[Izeloz]

Once the majority of the stuff was out, I started repairing broken dash pieces and replacing the foam in the HVAC system. I used washers and JB weld to repair broken screw holes in the dash parts. I used some thin foam I found at Joann's fabric along with Loctite spray adhesive to replace the HVAC foam. Again, LOTS of pictures when taking apart the HVAC parts. It's difficult to remember where all the linkages go and how they looked before you took them apart.

 

[Izeloz]

I replaced the steering shaft seal, the AC drain grommet, and the clutch grommet/seal since they were all cracked and leaking. I also replaced the seal/boot under the shifter since that was also cracked and falling apart. All other grommets were in good shape. The wiring harness was easily disconnected in the engine compartment and removed from the truck. There were a few vampire taps and butt connectors from previous owners that got removed and repaired, then the entire harness got cleaned thoroughly and re-wrapped with Super 33 electrical tape (great stuff for this application).

 

[Izeloz]

Then came the tedious job of applying the sound deadener. I used Siless silver (virtually identical to the Noico, but a bit cheaper). I know 100% coverage with deadener is not necessary, but I figured in for a penny, in for a pound and went all out. The original mass loaded vinyl sound blocker was removed, all the jute removed, cleaned with acetone, and then covered on the inside (firewall side) with thick Noico Red closed cell foam. I hadn't see anyone use this method, so I hope it works well. I reasoned that the OEM mass loaded vinyl was already molded to the firewall, and the holes were already cut for steering, wiring, etc.

 

[Izeloz]

Then I started work on the dash pad. I had several cracks, some of them full width and one all the way through the dash pad. I used a dremel with a grinding stone to cut a groove in each crack, then beveled the edges of the vinyl, then used a plastic welder to fill the grooves, making sure to overlap on both sides where I beveled the vinyl. My next step will be to sand the plastic welder flush, then fill the rest of the imperfections with flexible body filler, sand again, glazing putty, sand again, adhesion promoter, filler primer, sand again, then bedliner. I may topcoat the bedliner with color matched gray if I don't like the look of black bedliner.

 

[Heckraiser]

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[Box Rocket]

Wow. Lots of work but your efforts will surely pay off.

 

[FJBen]

Holy crap thats a lot of sound deadener.

 

[Izeloz]

I didn't get a lot done today, but I made a little progress. Routing the wires where they are supposed to go is a bit like wrestling an octopus. Anyway, I decided to paint all the bare metal items in the dash (except the steering column because, frankly, I am about sick of this project). Just used Rustoleum rust converter primer. I figure a couple coats would be fine since it's just been bare metal all this time anyway. Got the HVAC stuff back in and mounted up the steering column. I also installed a new keyless entry system. I modified the receiver box by soldering a SMA coax cable to the board inside in place of the factory antenna. I made it so you can disconnect it at the box if you want/need to. I also modified a Toyota bracket and epoxied some nuts inside the control box so I could mount it like a factory option in the left kick panel. Got 6.5' of SMA cable and a 5cm. 315 mHz antenna and routed it up high. It will be mounted vertically on a plastic piece once the dash goes back in. I also added a short piece of wire to extend the antenna in the FOB. Should extend the range dramatically. Besides the unrelated job of installing a new rear hatch gasket, that's all for today.

 

[John Young]

Hi Izeloz. I just wanted to offer a word of encouragement. The 80 dash removal and reinstallation is daunting. I did some of the same things you did.; e.g., painting some of the previously bare metal. I also replaced the foam rubber gaskets in all the HVAC flaps and whatnot. There were times when I was tempted to give up on getting everything back together, but is is very doable.

 

[Izeloz]

Sorry for lack of updates. Just started a new job and I've been a bit busy. I finished putting things back together. I used plastic weld, JB Quick Weld, and finally flexible body filler for the dash. Painted it with filler primer and finished off with the premium line of Rust-Oleum bed liner. I think it came out pretty well. I am hoping it lasts well and never cracks again. The sound deadening project is also mostly done. I added Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro over the top of the transmission hump and on both front floor pans. Eventually the rest of the truck will receive similar treatment.

 

[Izeloz]