- Thread starter
- #21
Those gauges are not the actual faces. I just used the same gauge and changed the label for mock purposes.
Dash mock up - input needed
- Thread starter nicholastheczar
- Start date
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Those gauges are not the actual faces. I just used the same gauge and changed the label for mock purposes.
Thanks, I'll add those. The heater valve is probably going to be moved to under neath the dash since it will have to be a pull type.
Thanks! Yup, going in between the two. I plan on using my stock gauge cluster, old emblems, things I've found in the cruiser during the restomod (e.g. Old indian arrowhead), and a few other things and get them build a shadowbox with all the stuff in it. I thought it would be cool as a way to remember the build especially w/ the stock gauge cluster with the original mileage.
Those dash lights I found at keepitcleanwiring.com. They are kinda pricey though so thats why I'm not using a bunch of them. Just the main buttons that will get used more than the rocker switches.
Keep It Clean Wiring :: 19mm Momentary Billet Buttons™ w/ LED White Ring
What additional gauge could I use? Any recommendations? Nitrous Boost?For when I feel like doing some Toyko Drifting!!!
Nick
WOW! I see what you mean by spendy! 40 bucks a pop...ouch.
BTW, where did you get the gauge cluster for the stock location?
Might wanna look into that for my build.
Great job and great thread!
I really like what you have come up with!
Keith
X2 on the altimeter. Allways thought that would be cool, since I live at about sea level and wheel in the mountains alot.
- Thread starter
- #24
Like the addition of the clock.
Curious how you plan on cutting out the metal and what short of bracket you plan to install to hold it in place.
I'm going to have it cut out using a machine shop and a CNC machine. As far as brackets, I will use machine screws to mount it to the backside of the existing dash and bolt it through.
- Thread starter
- #25
I know, I'd like to find a cheaper alternative than $40 bucks x3 ... ouch. The gauge cluster actually came in a parts pile w/ my 40 when I bought it. I saw them for sale on mud, so I know you can buy them here.
I don't have much use for an altimeter here in Texas.
Here is how thick they are and what they look like and Jim' phone number.
Sorry about the flash. His # is 310 329 9007
Here is how thick they are and what they look like and Jim' phone number.
Sorry about the flash. His # is 310 329 9007
Cool!
Thanks D'animal!
Appreciated!
K
rideglobally
Nullacruiser
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- Sep 16, 2007
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i like this, i am calling him tomm..thx
Here is how thick they are and what they look like and Jim' phone number.
Sorry about the flash. His # is 310 329 9007
If you look closely at the gauge you will see that it reads the same as the air pressure gauge above it. I suspect nick used photoshop (or something similar) to modify the the name on the gauge.
I dig the guage mounting plate, very nice craftsmanship. Is it super shiny in the sun? If so you could get some ruthless reflection driving down the road.
- Thread starter
- #31
Not really. It has somewhat of a matte finish too it. Haven't been able to drive this thing yet so I can comment about just how reflective it will be in the sun.
Nick
How are you going to turn lights and your fan on with momentary buttons? Are you just going to keep your finger on them the whole time? 
- Thread starter
- #33
How are you going to turn lights and your fan on with momentary buttons? Are you just going to keep your finger on them the whole time?
They are toggle buttons, so 1 push is on and another push is off. The only thing with the fan will be multiple speeds. May end up using a 3 position rocker switch w/ a high /off /low setting.
Nick
The ones you linked aren't...
EDIT: found the latching type. whoa, they're $50!!!
- Thread starter
- #35
I always wanted to see someone figure out a way to hinge that center section (or at least part of it).
It could pop down, or up to allow EZ access without the headstand.
And make it so it doesn't rattle either!
Oh Yeah, don't forget to include the rear of the bracket, that hold the gauges onto the cluster, when measuring for space behind the dash. If you just space for the gauge (like sticking 2 right next to each other), then you will have to mount them crooked so the rear bracket fits.
It could pop down, or up to allow EZ access without the headstand.
And make it so it doesn't rattle either!
Oh Yeah, don't forget to include the rear of the bracket, that hold the gauges onto the cluster, when measuring for space behind the dash. If you just space for the gauge (like sticking 2 right next to each other), then you will have to mount them crooked so the rear bracket fits.
Watch out when you plan on putting guages in the upper section of the dash. The vents for the defrosters are in that area and don't allow for the depth of the guages. If you want to know how I know, I'll get out the picture of my dash. NOW MINUS DEFROSTER VENTS.
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- Thread starter
- #39
My Autometer guages are 2.222" diameter and my rocker switch holders (which I bought from Waytekwire.com) are 2.312". It should be pretty close to scale, but not exact.
Nick
- Thread starter
- #40
I drop off my template at the CNC shop today. They are going to put it into CAD and then email me a proof. I ended up making it smaller and keeping my stock ashtray (which I may still make it into something else). I have 2 guages w/ 2 rows of Rockers switches w/ 4 switches per row.
That is what made me go from 4 gauges to 2. Those vents take up prime real estate behind the dash. I bought some autometer angle rings which give me a little more clearance and allow me to cheat a little closer to the vents. I should be able to tell how it is going to fit w/ my 2 gauges once I get my proof back.
Nick
