Danish landcruiser (2 Viewers)

[Frkens]

My plan was to leave bolts in all the threads in the frame during sandblasting and galvanization proces. But I'm suggested to only leave them in during the sandblasting proces, and just re-thread them after they're galvanized. I think that makes kind of sense. Any thoughts?

@dogfishlake @sved ??

 

[dogfishlake]

Maybe leave them out for all steps. The frame will get sand inside of it but I think it will anyway. You will have to blow it out with air for a long time. This way the holes will get blasted clean and they will get galvanising in them. I don't think it will be too heavy to affect being able to get a bolt in the hole later. That is my best guess.

 

[sved]

My plan was to leave bolts in all the threads in the frame during sandblasting and galvanization proces. But I'm suggested to only leave them in during the sandblasting proces, and just re-thread them after they're galvanized. I think that makes kind of sense. Any thoughts?

@dogfishlake @sved ??

Leave them out,
Rethread afterwards, zink is soft material compared with steel so easy to work with.

 

[Frkens]

It's been a while since I made an update. So here's what's up.

I delivered the frame, axles etc. to the painter, and they did a great job in my opinion. One layer of epoxy and two layers of black paint coat. Looks really great. Next wednesday I'm going on a little drive in order to get a new set of leaf springs and shock absorbers. Once I can put them back on, I have a good base for the next couple of projects. I'm pretty excited to see the frame standing on its wheels again.

Right now I'm assembling whatever I can. But it's not that easy with all the nuts and bolts mixed up in one big pile. So I did what was necessary, and spent an afternoon dividing them into piles and piles... I also bought a couple of boxes of new bolts and washers. I bought stainless steel, but I'm not certain whether that's going to be a problem. Anyone?

Also I had the front crossbar welded on by a skilled friend of mine. It's looking pretty good in my opinion!

Any ideas for what to do while waiting on the new leafsprings?

Cheers!

 

[SteveH]

Any ideas for what to do while waiting on the new leafsprings?

Soak all the old hardware in mineral spirits (paint thinner), clean it up and set it aside, organized by size. Even if you bought new stainless hardware, old hardware is a real lifesaver down the road and for future projects.

 

[Frkens]

Picked up the new leafsprings today. Getting some grease tomorrow and will begin the install!

 

[Frkens]

And the rear ones are on. Had to fiddle a bit with it as they're not loaded with any weight. I guess the reverse order wouldn't have been a bad idea; wheels on axle --> leaf springs on axle --> leaf springs on frame would've made more sense.

It was a bit hard moving it around singlehandedly avoiding scratches in the newly painted frame, axle and lead springs.

The anti inversion shackles are sitting weird in my mind (see picture), but according to the salesman that's because they're unloaded. So I'm looking forward to getting the wheels on hopefully in the next week.

The Manafre u-bolt flip kits are looking awesome on the rear axle. I'm considering a kit for the front axle as well. But with shipping they're 400 USD in Denmark. I still have the stock ones. I might go with them if they fit well. I'll be able to swop them at a later time if I feel like it.

Haven't fully tightened the suspension yet. I'll wait until everything's loaded.

Yesterday I received my new tie rod ends. But I think they're really hard to move around. Just like the old ones. So I'll have to make a test according to the FSM to check if it's just me.

Next up will be acquiring new body bushings and shocks.

 

[Frkens]

Mounting my front leaf springs I noticed that I did not install these chisels on the rear ones, and now I'm not sure what to do with them. They aren't mentioned in the FSM.

Notice that on the picture they're pointing in opposite directions. I don't remember which way they originally were.

What do they do, should I install them, and if yes which way should I turn them?

 

[Frkens]

Nevermind I figured it out. And they're not chisels but shims. They need to lift the rear part of the propeller shaft pointing more upwards towards the transfer case due to the added lift. 2" lift equals approximately 2,5 degrees lift (so I read). The last picture shows the shim and you can read that it says 2,5 degrees.

 

[Miloslavich]

^ you got it. Caster shims.

Nice work!!

 

[Frkens]

I ordered the MANAFRE U-boilt flip kit for the front axle last night. Man this car is just one black hole eating all of my money. Oh well...

I am in need of some advice on body mount bushings, washers, bolts and nuts. The only kits I can find are VERY expensive. I would be willing to pay 150-200 USD, but I'm not going to pay 800 USD for the kit. I've seen some people on Youtube doing them theirselves casting them in polyurethane.

Does anyone have experience and advice on how to do the kit cheaper? You can see the current state of the old bushings below.

 

[georgebj60]

I can't help you on the new bushings, but those old ones don't look all that bad, to me. I don't see any rotting, or cracking. I've heard of people using boat rollers (used on boat trailers) and cutting them to length themselves. Just a thought.

 

[Frkens]

Thanks @georgebj60 for the advice. They are unfortunately cracking up, so I'd like to do a replacement. I'll take a look at the boat rollers next time I have a chance!

Today I washed up and installed the old parts that won't be replaced.

I did a lot of shopping too...
- Equipment for making new brakelines and adding connectors
- New discs
- New radiator
- New stainless steel braided brakeline hoses
- New tailgate lift supports

And a lot of other stuff...

I also cleaned up the gas tank that does not (!) need a replacement. It's in pretty nice condition. I will however have to do something about that rust and paint it before it turns into something serious. I read that it's also a good idea to clean it on the inside with a couple of handfulls of nuts, then etch and finally coat it on the inside. Can anyone point me in a better direction?

I'm using as many of the olf nuts and bolts as possible. And I'm refurbishing every single one of them with a wire brush before they get installed. Feels good.

 

[Frkens]

Lots of stuff have been coming in lately, but I'm still awaiting parts in order to get cracking.

While waiting I took apart the knuckle joints and ordered everything for a complete overhaul. It was a pretty easy and exciting job. Glad I did it. And as I inspected the bearings, I could tell it was about time they had a replacement. They were all sandy and hardly moving.

Got the axle out as well. Considering taking the birfield joint apart in order to clean it up and inspect too. Doesn't look too hard.

Also having some more bits and pieces sanded and painted tomorrow.

Due to the long periods of waiting, I'm trying to look four steps ahead. I'm looking into seats right now. I've found Corbeau seats with a fitting kit for the FJ62, and I've seen a lot of people talk about BMW seats. I don't have a lot of preferences, but I'd like them to look nice. And I'm 6'4", so it'd be nice with some more room for my legs than what's standard.

Any suggestions??

 

[cps432]

I ordered the MANAFRE U-boilt flip kit for the front axle last night. Man this car is just one black hole eating all of my money. Oh well...

I am in need of some advice on body mount bushings, washers, bolts and nuts. The only kits I can find are VERY expensive. I would be willing to pay 150-200 USD, but I'm not going to pay 800 USD for the kit. I've seen some people on Youtube doing them theirselves casting them in polyurethane.

Does anyone have experience and advice on how to do the kit cheaper? You can see the current state of the old bushings below.

View attachment 2387223View attachment 2387224

4Crawler.com
I just installed a set. $265 shipped

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Great project! A word of caution on the caster shims. Those looked like aluminum. If that's the case be wary of them, in fact, I'd look into steel ones. I've seen reports of the aluminum fatiguing and then cracking out leaving the joint loose.

 

[Frkens]

I am about to install the front axle when I see that my axle oil seal looks different from the one I took out. I'm pretty sure I need a new one but what do you guys say?

On picture two you can tell that it doesn't fit. I tried to take the old one apart to see if I could replace the rubber part, but that doesn't seem to be possible.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Definitely the wrong seal. Try locating 90311-33085.

This thread has a ton of axle PNs collected.

 

[cps432]

Yeah that’s definitely the wrong part and you need to use the correct one. You can’t makw what you have work. Just get the correct seal.

 

[Frkens]

Damn. That's what I guessed. Can't fint any online, so I'll be picking them up monday at the Toyota dealership for the price of 95USD. Yep that's what the prices are like for a Dane having the insane idea of restoring an old car like this.

Status:
Picked up the sway bars today from the painter (picture is taken prior to paint job) where it also was straightened. Fresh brake rotors, calipers are at hand as well as freshly painted knuckle joint housings. Once I have the oil seal (Tuesday), I'll be able to assemble the entire knuckle joint finally.

Once that's on, I can put on wheels, shocks, tie- and link rod, and focus upon putting on restoring the gas tank.

And a few pictures