Damn another head gasket

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Before it blew this time, John brought it over and we did some tests. Initially, his compression numbers (both wet and dry) were something like:

130
110
110
90
0
130

We did a leak down test and no bubbles in radiator, but air was coming through intake manifold. We took off valve cover and adjusted #5 intake valve and no more air and compression was 130 (maybe 120). It still had a slight miss, but he was pushing all 6 cylinders. Unfortunately, on his way home is when it crapped out. All of his plugs looked uniform, except for #5, which was dirty, but that's to be expected if the fuel wasn't being burned completely. Also, there was an oily residue inside the intake and air cleaner hoses, but no smoke in exhaust.

I can't speak for him, because I don't know, but it did not look like the head had been properly cleaned, tested, etc, so there may be a crack in it that wasn't found before. He bought new injectors for it, but I suggested returning them after sending his current ones to be tested and cleaned. Spend that money elsewhere.
 
I can't speak for him, because I don't know, but it did not look like the head had been properly cleaned, tested, etc, so there may be a crack in it that wasn't found before. He bought new injectors for it, but I suggested returning them after sending his current ones to be tested and cleaned. Spend that money elsewhere.

Terry is the man :) sums it up

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Look man. I do not know what your money situation is . But at this point you are going into it the second time. So this time you need to get it right. This means taking it to a good machine shop and getting the whole head done. Not just one thing. Have them do the whole 9 yards on the head. Then at the same time clean the heck out of the top of the block. Not just with a scraper but also a die grinder with a cleaning pad on it. Then take a straight edge to the top of the block also. At the same time take some pics of each cylinder and figure how much wear is on them and do you have cross hatching still on the walls . While you have the head off this time do the oil galley plug fix. In fact drill and tap that before the machine shop. Then put in the plug after you get it back. Do the valves and valve guide seals. You will need to adjust the valves again after it is back together.
 
Look man. I do not know what your money situation is . But at this point you are going into it the second time. So this time you need to get it right. This means taking it to a good machine shop and getting the whole head done. Not just one thing. Have them do the whole 9 yards on the head. Then at the same time clean the heck out of the top of the block. Not just with a scraper but also a die grinder with a cleaning pad on it. Then take a straight edge to the top of the block also. At the same time take some pics of each cylinder and figure how much wear is on them and do you have cross hatching still on the walls . While you have the head off this time do the oil galley plug fix. In fact drill and tap that before the machine shop. Then put in the plug after you get it back. Do the valves and valve guide seals. You will need to adjust the valves again after it is back together.

I'm not that mechanically inclined I don't know Just the basics I'm not Mechanic im an electrical guy that's what I do know I wire up stuff especially cars

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I'm not that mechanically inclined I don't know Just the basics I'm not Mechanic im an electrical guy that's what I do know I wire up stuff especially cars.

Dude, none of us were born as ASE certified mechanics. We all started somewhere. This is a fairly simple job all things considered. Go by the FSM supplement you've got and it will not steer you wrong. If you have a screwdriver set and a ratchet set, you can take the head off of the motor without a problem.

If you really need it done ASAP and you don't want to do it yourself, that's fine, but then I suggest you take it to a mechanic. Maybe Darin has an opening.
 
Taking it apart is the easy part. By the time you get it apart and the injectors and head back, some of us might be able to help you get it back together. One trick for newbies is to find a piece of cardboard and shove your bolts through and label them. That way they're in one place and can be identified. The fsm will give you step by step instructions.
 
Dude, none of us were born as ASE certified mechanics. We all started somewhere. This is a fairly simple job all things considered. Go by the FSM supplement you've got and it will not steer you wrong. If you have a screwdriver set and a ratchet set, you can take the head off of the motor without a problem.

If you really need it done ASAP and you don't want to do it yourself, that's fine, but then I suggest you take it to a mechanic. Maybe Darin has an opening.

I just don't have a clue what do and If I do it I will lose the bolts or some crap like that

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I just don't have a clue what do and If I do it I will lose the bolts or some crap like that

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Come on man really? If you can read English and follow directions you'll be fine. Put parts in sandwich bags and label them. It's not open heart surgery :)
 
I'm not that mechanically inclined I don't know Just the basics I'm not Mechanic im an electrical guy that's what I do know I wire up stuff especially cars

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John,

I've met you a few times, I know you can do this, you just have to commit to it and dive in head first man! Man Up! I was 16 when I rebuild my first engine, and I did not just get er done, I balanced and blueprinted it, all by myself with a few meat heads from the weightroom to help guide the motor in and out. All I had was one small craftsman tool box full of tools my dad had left behind and a book on how to rebuild small block Chevys. The Toyota FSM is about as good as they get. Consider yourself lucky compared to a Dodge or GM factory manual. I was also lucky to have a good speed shop with an awesome machinist. Treat them with respect and they will teach you more than you ever want to learn if you listen! That goes for any tradesman!

Here are some pointers:

Take some pictures as you tear stuff down and keep your parts organized. Get white paper labels with string to label connectors. Use small bottles of different colored touch up paint on vacuum lines to color code what goes where - one dab on each side. Put nuts and bolts in labeled baggies - small zip locks. If you have a lot of bolts that are different lengths - make a cardboard template and push them through.

When you take off the head, keep the push rods in order by drilling holes in a card board box and number them with a sharpie.

Number the pistons as you take them out.

Read the directions and look at the diagrams carefully for the rings. They go together in a very particular order. Hand file each ring to fit each bore. Deburr carefully with super fine sand paper after filing to fit. Use assembly lube. Change motor oil after first 20 min and then again next day. Follow instructions for motor break in.

Always use plastigauge to confirm what the machine shop says they did on bearings. This is very easy to do.

I don't think you need to port and polish if your on a budget but don't skimp on anything else. A good machinist can really wake up a motor by milling the head, port and polish chambers and port matching but the area needs to be left a little rough - not a full polish. Buy Toyota, Rimflex or other high quality gaskets. Replace damaged fasteners. Don't reuse gaskets.

Usually old cruiser motors need a cam and lifters. Expensive but well worth it for performance. I prefer new ones vs reground.

When the head comes back from the machine shop, flip it upside down and make sure that the combustion chambers hold alcohol. If not, the valve job is sub standard and the seats are cut incorrectly.

Great Tips Here:

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/HP2012-19/at-home-engine-machining-and-cylinder-head-porting

Most of all, keep everything as clean as possible.

Don't set stuff on the ground where it will pick up dirt and grit.

If you run into a problem, walk away for a few minutes and then get back to it.

Post up here if you run into a problem,

PLAN B? A good used motor. Take your time rebuilding the one you have. Keep the extra for parts. That is how I like to do it!

Good luck!

-Stumbaugh
 
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just pay attention while you disassemble it....(like where some bolts may be a bit longer than the others)
put fear aside....you have all of us mudders....

think of it this way ..its just a metal puzzle, and better than looking at the boxcover you have to undo it to begin with....it shows you where everything goes...

the best thing is using the cardboard box, label and poke holes( kinda mimick the location helps too,

usually 2rows L/R,front to back) intake manifold, exhaust manifold, head bolts, cam towers. when rebuilding be mindful of torque and sequence

you are an intelligent person, the 3fe is a fairly basic design and will teach you not to have anxiety, you can fix it...its a landcruiser, besides the electrical is the hard part, the rest is only metal

I have learned so much from my toyotas, mechanical, electrical, plumbing, A/C and I use these principals everyday
 
I just don't have a clue what do and If I do it I will lose the bolts or some **** like that

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Dude here is your game pan!

1. Go to the local beercave and stock up.
2. Post pics of purchased beer ice cold.
3. Post date and address of where said beer can be consumed.
4. Watch mudders come out of the wood works to consume said beer and help pul the head for you!
5. Pay attention, get your hands dirty and learn something!
 
Ya know guys, just because someone owns a Land Cruiser does not mean that they can tear the top end of the motor down. Sure, many of us have that skill set and have no problem doing a head gasket job and all the related items that go with it, but not everyone has that skill set nor the confidence to try it. Looking under that hood when you dont know what you are looking at can be pretty daunting.

Give the guy a break, if he feels better taking it to Darin to have the job done, so be it.
 
You can do this john...... don't worry about it. Like johnny said we all start somewhere and constantly take on new challenges..... I'm on day 2 of a clutch job on a FWD car. Something i've never done before and never knew it was as involved as it is. (Andrea's next car will be RWD :mad: )


The good part about the 3FE is that it is just about the most simple EFI engine there is... just has a bunch of vacuum lines. A FSM will walk you through the process and it is pretty hard to mess up. The machine shop is going to be doing the hard parts at rebuilding the head for you when you send if off.


If I was closer i'd give you a hand.
:cheers:
 
Ya know guys, just because someone owns a Land Cruiser does not mean that they can tear the top end of the motor down. Sure, many of us have that skill set and have no problem doing a head gasket job and all the related items that go with it, but not everyone has that skill set nor the confidence to try it. Looking under that hood when you dont know what you are looking at can be pretty daunting.

Give the guy a break, if he feels better taking it to Darin to have the job done, so be it.

I agree. I'm great with taking things apart. Putting them back together is the prob. Give the guy a break.
 
I agree. I'm great with taking things apart. Putting them back together is the prob. Give the guy a break.

I second this. And unless John's got something else to drive for a while it's probably best to do whatever it takes to get it back on the road quickly. No harm or shame in that... except the harm to the wallet. One of my problems is not knowing enough about everything to even properly describe the problem, let alone understand all the advice people give me - especially about engines (too many moving parts and systems for my tiny brain). Doesn't always stop me from trying but I'm lucky enough to have other vehicles to drive during the downtime.

Good luck with whatever you decide, John. :cheers:

--johnvee
 
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