Damage Report - front axle

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May 15, 2005
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:frown: Both of the forward bolts on the front of the PS lower trunion are gone. The one next to the disc brake shield looks like it's been gone for some time. There's an 1/8 gap in the front part of the trunion. Does this mean it's bent and I'll need a new one or can I get away with drilling/backing out what's left of the bolts and replacing them? the rear bolts look fine. Any advise/help is much appreciated. Thanks!
 
Time to tear the axle down and inspect.
 
Dan is right. Until you tear it down and have a good look, you won't be able to tell. Anyone have a garage you can borrow for a few days? I would go ahead and order the front axle repack kit. You might think about if your Rotors need replacing while your in there.
 
Garage

I'm making arrangements right now to get into a garage. I drove 20 miles before I parked it. I didn't have any problems with the birfs or anything prior to the forward bolt(s) snapping off. It's still pretty juicy under there so I think I'm OK, but we'll see. CDan - another PM coming your way.
 
I agree it's time to tear down the axle. However, are you sure the studs are sheared? They can loosen and back out of the nuckle. If you need new studs I had good luck with the ones I got from C Dan with a head on them.

Buck
 
Buckru said:
I agree it's time to tear down the axle. However, are you sure the studs are sheared? They can loosen and back out of the nuckle. If you need new studs I had good luck with the ones I got from C Dan with a head on them.

Buck

One may have backed completely out, but the other broke off.:doh: There's about 1/4 of the stud still in the lower trunion. I'm sending CDan a PM right now.
 
I just did my birfs about six weeks ago, and when I have it to do over again I'll get the new studs with the head just to save time. Setting the original ones back down with the locking nuts method was a minor PITA but a major time suck.
 
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I had some problems with those studs, including odd ones shearing when others came loose and allowed a little movement to fatigue them.

I tried just replacing the lost studs and they always came loose again though sometimes it took a while. In the end I stripped it down and put the swivel housing in the parts washer to get those threads scrupulously clean and then used a thread lock when the studs went back in, so far so good.

I think once you start suffering from this it doesn't go away unless you fix it properly...

Jon.
 
wildsmith said:
I had some problems with those studs, including odd ones shearing when others came loose and allowed a little movement to fatigue them.

I tried just replacing the lost studs and they always came loose again though sometimes it took a while. In the end I stripped it down and put the swivel housing in the parts washer to get those threads scrupulously clean and then used a thread lock when the studs went back in, so far so good.

I think once you start suffering from this it doesn't go away unless you fix it properly...

Jon.

How hard was it to back out the sheered studs? How did you do it?
 
Once you drop the steering arm off the bottom of the knucke, I'd bet you'll have enough to get a grip on with vice grips. If not quite enough for that, file the bit sticking out so it's got two parallel flats (the round cross section becomes a rectangle) and then a crescent wrench won't slip. If not, you're going to need a special tool.

I don't understand about the eighth inch gap, but sounds like you're getting set up to pull the knuckle open. Dan will set you up with the proper parts, and the new version of these 4 bolts.

DougM
 
Bolts

Sounds good. CDan's going to work up my order and hopefully have it ready by Monday. :cheers:
 
If they are broken, best way I have found is with reversible drill bits to get them out, at least broken bolts on the 40. They are hard to find. I found them at AA Trading post on south Broadway in Englewood.
 
...

Thanks Ken. I think that may be the way to go. There's nothing I can file or anything that I can see protruding. :)
 
Jenny Cruiser said:
...There's nothing I can file or anything that I can see protruding. :)
Have you removed the steering arm? Doing that will better expose what is left of the studs. See Doug's post.

FYI, by "reversible drill bit" Romer must have meant left hand twist drill bit. Available at industrial suppliers.
 
Jenny - with Rich here. Did you remove the steering arm to see what's sticking out of the steering knuckle (which they're actually screwed into)? The steering arm may be hiding some of the stud sticking out, which you won't see until it is off. Just be advised the vehicle becomes undriveable once this is off until you replace the studs, so choose where/when to do it.

DougM
 
How hard was it to back out the sheered studs? How did you do it?

The first two came out just pushing them round with a small screw driver. Next one I had to drift but was easy. The last one was stuck good and proper so my mate welded a nut on what was left and it came out easy, this was with the knuckle on the bench.

The ones that came out easy were what made the penny drop for me - that housing is full of grease which runs down the threads and keep them well lubricated once there's any loosness. Just putting new studs back in won't be enough IMHO, the threads need cleaning with a good degreaser first which you can't really do with a knuckle full of CV and grease ...

If they are broken, best way I have found is with reversible drill bits to get them out

I went that route first and the bit snapped off in the hole, major panic! My mate said it made it much harder for him to build the weld up to put the nut on and I should have gone to him first :rolleyes: So if you try those and it snaps don't panic, there's still a solution :)

Good luck.

Jon.
 
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Axle

Thanks to CDan for the parts and everyone else for your help. The snow's about gone and I'm almost caught up on my homework, so I should have time to get everything done over the weekend. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!
 

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