Dam Oil Pan

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canadian bum

canadian bum

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So I put my 2F in my 45 this weekend and had oil in it and today I as setting timing and carb up in the 2F that I didn't know weather it ran or not. Turns out it runs like a top. So we shut it off and I was going to go down and put the front driveshaft in when I seen a little oil puddle starting to form. I instantly thought crap its the rear engine seal. Nope it was the oilpan leaking from under the skid plate. Instant piss off because it held oil when it was out of the truck for about a week and then when I put it in it leaks. Whatever at least I can get the pan off easy enough. What I want to know is if this is a fairly common problem with this pan and what you guys have done to remedy it so that it doesn't happen again. The crazy thing is when I put the pan on the engine it looked fine on the inside. And no I did not set the engine on the pan it sat up hanging from a hoist and it did not hit anything in installation. So maybe it is just one of those quirks where you change all the gaskets expecting there to be no leaks. :rolleyes:
 
So let me get this strait...


You had a used oil pan, put oil in it before you put it up to see if it leaked and it didn't...


You then installed it, and it is leaking from the skid plate?


Yes, they have been known to leak there, but usually it is because the pan hit something, or rust has damaged it...


Weld it up, or get a new pan.


Mine is leaking slowly from a rock encounter last year...I have a new pan on the shelf for it...when I get time...


Good luck!


-Steve
 
I had the oil pan off the original engine in the 45 and bolted it up to the engine than I put oil in it. It held oil then and it hasn't encountered anything to give it a wack. So what I figure is that heat from running the engine did something because after running it is when it started to leak real good like a steady stream. so I guess I have to take it off and weld it up. What do you use to weld mig. My dad suggested brazing. Since an oil pan is not really cheap. But if I have to get one I will.
 
I used a wire-feed(mig) welder....


If you plan on keeping the truck, I would purchase a new one....


but that is just me.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
I just went through the same thing recently. Drove the truck after just replacing the oil pan gasket. While the pan was off, I decided to try to clean all the crap out of that crevis. Bad idea. Now a good puddle was forming under the truck and the top of the oil pan was totally dry. It was all coming from between the pan and skid plate.

My solution was to call Cruiser Dan and buy a new pan from Toyota. Less expensive than wasting time trying to fix the old one. My truck was parked in the driveway for 30 minutes last weekend without a drop.
 
Buy the new one.

Unless you can locate exactly where a leak is coming from what are you going to weld (or braze) up?

No offense meant but if you don't know what weld process to use in an attempt to fix this I'd say that you stand a good chance of burning new holes to weld up while you are trying to fix the original one, if there is one.
 
This is pretty common from what I have found. My truck didn't leak a drop when I brought it home. After changing the oil the first time, it began to leak like a quart or better a week. I welded mine because I didn't have the cash for a new pan, but I wish I had just bought one. Took 2 times taking it off and welding to get it right. And now it leaks a little around the drain plug.
 
I had the same problem, I happened to have another one that was in good shape, so I found a good used one. If you use a used one, test it before installation. If you are going to weld it, once you think you have it fixed, put the drain plug in and fill it with water/oil etc.... let it sit (suspend it if you would like) for a night and look for any leaks in the morning. It will save you the headache of taking it back off when you find out you missed a spot. Do this until you have no more leaks.
 
Also, when I got my new one, I sealed the crack btwn pan and skid plate w/ Ultra Black before it went on - no opening for crap to get in there and rust.

Granted, the old one took prob 20 years to start rusting...

The new ones are not that much $, esp if you start monkeying with taking your old pan on, off, on, off, etc...
 
I have the pan off a 2F I'm rebuilding and sandblasted it. It had a couple of pinholes in it. I had it brazed and I'm hoping for the best. The oil trapped between the skid and the pan burned like little volcanoes and would not seal up until they had burned out or found another way to vent.
Good Idea on sealing the gap 'tween skid and pan. I'm going to use something paintable, like seam sealer or silicone-modified paintable caulk.

Ed
Oilpan 001.webp
Oilpan 002.webp
 
Portal_tek said:
If you use a used one, test it before installation. If you are going to weld it, once you think you have it fixed, put the drain plug in and fill it with water/oil etc.... let it sit (suspend it if you would like) for a night and look for any leaks in the morning. It will save you the headache of taking it back off when you find out you missed a spot. Do this until you have no more leaks.
Click to expand...


And good call there, too. Will do.

Ed
 
What, Ed, you didn't braze it yourself?
 
Ain't got no OxyAcetylene. But do have a patient at the welding shop. He was concerned that the rust might be also under the baffle flange, so he decided to go all around it. We'll see.
However gold soldering is right up my alley. Just like ToothFairy.

Ed
 
JJB, That brings up a good question, which side(if only one side) do you put any sealer on? I'm inclined to apply to block side only, then let tha gasket do it's job. That way you're less likely to destroy the gasket if your buddy's brazing doesn't work, eh?

Ed
 
Had the same problem on my 40, when the engine was hot it leaked, turned out that the heated oil is thinner, so it leaks. The problem on mine was rust between the skid plate and the pan. The skidplate is spot welded to the pan, so I drilled all the spot welds out, removing the skidplate. I then welded a new piece of sheet metal over the bottom of the pan.

I reattached the skidplate by welding in the holes I had drilled to remove the spot welds. Before doing this though, I put some gas in the pan to test for leaks, it's thinner than oil so it finds the leaks faster.
 
here is a good tip/permanent fix for oil pans . I have used this system on 3 oil pans and it works very well . I live on the east coast of Canada ( major salt ! ) Go to an aircraft supply shop and buy a can of PRC sealant 1440b 1/2 . Clean base pan with degreaser and then sand blast or remove all corrosion whatever way . Clean clean and degrease . Mix sealant as per instructions and smear it on , wear gloves cause this stuff is like baby s*** and you will get it on yourself ! I can pretty much guarantee you it will be your last oil pan leak , unless you drag it across rocks and scrape it off . But this stuff is tough ! I even use this stuff on new oil pans .
HTH , Daryl
 
Degnol said:
JJB, which side(if only one side) do you put any sealer on? I'm inclined to apply to block side only, then let tha gasket do it's job. That way you're less likely to destroy the gasket if your buddy's brazing doesn't work, eh?

Ed
Click to expand...


The picture shows the engine upside down with the gasket sitting on the block and the 4 corner gasket holes circled(circle about the area of a quarter) stating "Apply a non-setting gasket sealant at those points".

Hope this helps!

Does anybody know what is special about these areas/holes

John
 
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