I've had a leak problem with my oil pan. I use acetone to check for leaks as it's viscosity is less than that of oil. Acetone leaks show up A LOT quicker than oil leaks Sadly, I've brazed and had leaks. Then I coated the bottom of the pan with JB Weld and still had leaks. I finally gave up and bought a used pan from $OR for $75. No one that I know of sells new OEM pans anymore, even Toyota. Everyone has switched to pan with a smaller drain plug, requiring a different gasket. HTH
Dam Oil Pan
- Thread starter canadian bum
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I think I have the same problem with the skid leaking. I was looking for replacement pans, and besides SOR, this is the only other one I found - http://store.yahoo.com/coolfj40/oilpangasplu.html
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Mine doesn't have rust on it, but I'm quite sure that it leaks around the spot welds as you can see the little round dimples in the pictures posted by Degnol. Mine leaks when the oil is hot as well. I might price out a pan from a place in edmonton and see if it is cheap enough other than that I think I will probably braze up all the spot welds and test with water or something that has a fairly low viscosity. The reason why I was asking about what type of welder I should use is for best results, but from the sounds of it it is a major pain in the ass.
I would have it sandblasted and you will see the spots where it weeps. If feasable, braze it. I have a couple of welders and if I had tried to weld it it would have burned through. I am not set up to braze, that's why I took ot to the "brazing" shop. The spotwelded skidplate provides yet another place for dirt to accumulate and moisture to be trapped. It is a really poor design unless you want to sell a lot of oilpans.
JMO
Ed
I'll tell you how it works!
JMO
Ed
I'll tell you how it works!
I am farily amazed at how many people on this thread want to keep brazing an old pan.
I have replaced two pans, and unless I get a lift, I do not want to do another!
Just got done putting my pan back on today, and I can feel it between my shoulders... (this will be my 500th post - I feel like I have earned it on this frickin' oil pan!)
Cruiser Dan will get you an OEM, Toyota pan for less than the price on CCOT website. It still uses the same pan gasket as before. Only difference is the drain plug is smaller, so now you can no longer put your cat inside the oil pan to give your engine a "cat scan". I think the smaller drain is supposed to minimize the drain plug leakage I was experiencing. Buy yourself a new pan, seal up the crack between the pan and skidplate, and away you go.
The first time I installed my new pan I screwed up the gasket and it leaked.
So this time I dropped the plug and let the bottom end drip dry for a couple of weeks (the 40 is down for a carb rebuild and lift too). I cleaned the bottom of the block and the pan with gasket remover and brake clean. You want these surfaces immaculate - no oil! I then did something I think may help others, I ran a tap through all the holes on the block and cleaned the "schmutz" (a term I learned from my Jewish mechanic friend) out of the holes. I then ran the bolts through a die and cleaned up the threads and got the schmutz off of them. Doused them w/ brake clean, dried w/ air. the clean threads really helped me get the bolts started.
The reason the manual says to apply sealant to the 4 corners is to keep the gasket sitting in the saddles of the mains and pan. I Ultra-Blacked all the way around on the block and then went and did the same all the way around on the pan. By this time the sealant on the block was sticky enough to accept the pan gasket. I put the pan gasket in place on the block and MADE SURE the gasket was in place on the main caps. Then I put the pan up and started the fun of trying to get the first and second bolts started. Make sure you have your bottle jack under your rig with you and ready to go.
Once all the bolts were started I started in the middle and fanned out just tightening the bolts a little at a time - you don't want to over-tighten or you will destry your gasket. I used a big Phillips screwdriver vs. the 12 mm socket and ratchet. Before I add oil I will check the pan bolts one more time...
If anyone wants a used pan to braze on, I'll sell mine for less than SOR!
Good luck, hope that helps, and happy Cruising!
I have replaced two pans, and unless I get a lift, I do not want to do another!
Just got done putting my pan back on today, and I can feel it between my shoulders... (this will be my 500th post - I feel like I have earned it on this frickin' oil pan!)
Cruiser Dan will get you an OEM, Toyota pan for less than the price on CCOT website. It still uses the same pan gasket as before. Only difference is the drain plug is smaller, so now you can no longer put your cat inside the oil pan to give your engine a "cat scan". I think the smaller drain is supposed to minimize the drain plug leakage I was experiencing. Buy yourself a new pan, seal up the crack between the pan and skidplate, and away you go.
The first time I installed my new pan I screwed up the gasket and it leaked.
So this time I dropped the plug and let the bottom end drip dry for a couple of weeks (the 40 is down for a carb rebuild and lift too). I cleaned the bottom of the block and the pan with gasket remover and brake clean. You want these surfaces immaculate - no oil! I then did something I think may help others, I ran a tap through all the holes on the block and cleaned the "schmutz" (a term I learned from my Jewish mechanic friend) out of the holes. I then ran the bolts through a die and cleaned up the threads and got the schmutz off of them. Doused them w/ brake clean, dried w/ air. the clean threads really helped me get the bolts started.
The reason the manual says to apply sealant to the 4 corners is to keep the gasket sitting in the saddles of the mains and pan. I Ultra-Blacked all the way around on the block and then went and did the same all the way around on the pan. By this time the sealant on the block was sticky enough to accept the pan gasket. I put the pan gasket in place on the block and MADE SURE the gasket was in place on the main caps. Then I put the pan up and started the fun of trying to get the first and second bolts started. Make sure you have your bottle jack under your rig with you and ready to go.
Once all the bolts were started I started in the middle and fanned out just tightening the bolts a little at a time - you don't want to over-tighten or you will destry your gasket. I used a big Phillips screwdriver vs. the 12 mm socket and ratchet. Before I add oil I will check the pan bolts one more time...
If anyone wants a used pan to braze on, I'll sell mine for less than SOR!
Good luck, hope that helps, and happy Cruising!