Cylinder Head Refresh

[bwakeling]

Hi all, getting ready to add some boost to the 80 and trying to figure out all the parts I need to order. I have the head gasket kit on order from Wits End and I know I need valve seals to stem my oil consumption. Will have the head machined smooth and make sure everything else is in spec but what else should I be looking at?

Debating pulling the motor to do this...sounds like it is not much more work and makes the job much easier, but other than my power steering cooler I am leak free. Still need to do a compression test so might identify a more work required.

Appreciate some suggestions and I am sure there are a few others wondering the same thing.

 

[jjdeneen918]

I did my HG a few months back in anticipation for the Wits End turbo kit. (Currently be installed).

I went with a Cometic HG, ARP head studs, & OEM Toyota HG kit for all the other gaskets/seals needed- which included new valve stem seals.

Machine shop for the head, cleaned & flow tested injectors, & powder coats a bunch of stuff to make it pretty.

 

[Cass007]

Local NAPA machine shop for the head. I pulled the harness from the main plug inside the truck behind the glove box and found it much easier than disconnecting at the trans. Be prepared to have to order some new injector clips and other random crap if things break that haven't been apart in 20+ years.

 

[bicycleagent003]

What's the consensus on whether to pull the motor when doing the HG? I'm considering a similar refresh myself.

 

[bwakeling]

So far I have a head gasket kit from Wits End on order which includes the below items...I assume this is oem but are any of the below items the valve seals?
Complete head gasket kit for the 1FZ which includes exhaust manifold hardware and oil cooler gaskets.
Includes:
• (1) GASKET KIT, CYLINDER VALVE GRIND (04112-66036)
• (1) GASKET, OIL COOLER COVER (15725-66010)
• (3) GASKET, OIL COOLER (15785-66010)
• (4) BOLT, STUD (90080-12007)
• (4) NUT, LOCK (90080-17187)
• (13) NUT, LOCK- FOR MANIFOLD TO HEAD (90179-10128)
• (13) BOLT, STUD- FOR MANIFOLD TO HEAD (90116-10169)

I think I am just going to go OEM head bolts rather than arp.

On pull the engine vs just the head I have room to bring the truck in the garage to work but not to bring it in and pull the engine. Going to start getting cold here in another month.

 

[bwakeling]

Local NAPA machine shop for the head. I pulled the harness from the main plug inside the truck behind the glove box and found it much easier than disconnecting at the trans. Be prepared to have to order some new injector clips and other random crap if things break that haven't been apart in 20+ years.

injector clips were in the order!

 

[baldilocks]

I did a 1fz HG three years ago and see
no need to pull the engine for this job alone. Based on what you posted so far, there are no engine leaks down low and the facility you have to work in would work best with the block left in the frame. You pretty much answered you own question.

Just be sure to get your hands on a machinists straight edge to confirm the deck is flat. The use of an MLS HG usually requires decking the block in the shop but you haven’t mentioned an inclination toward a MLS gasket.

Some will say that removing the entire engine isn’t much more work. I call BS and don’t want to spend even 10 more minutes than Is required to get my rig back in service. If you had a leaking rear main I would agree with pulling the whole mess but you don’t.

 

[bwakeling]

Sounds good. Less work the better.

I pulled this list and comments from this thread Cylinder Head Gasket Set on the contents of the kit. Looks like the valve seals are included so I think all I really need to order are the head bolts.

This is what is in 04112-66036 (Valve Grind kit, 1FZ-FE: AKA: Head Gasket kit)

1. Head Gasket
2. Injector orings and grommets
3. Fuel line gaskets
4. Throttle body gasket
5. Exhaust Manifold gaskets
6. Intake manifold to head gasket
7. Upper and lower intake gaskets
8. EGR valve to intake manifold gasket
9. EGR pipe to head gasket
10. Fuel filter banjo bolt gaskets
11. Valve cover gasket
12. Spark plug tube seals
13. Valve stem seals (both intake and exhaust valves--24 total since it is a 24 valve engine)
14. Water outlet gasket
15. Thermostat gasket
16. Timing Chain tensioner gasket
17. Water bypass outlet orings (3)
18. Exhaust manifold down pipe donut gaskets
19. Air injection tube gaskets (for 1993-1994 trucks)
20. Gaskets for the cylinder head screw plugs
21. Dizzy oring

You need to add: water bypass tube gasket, oil cooler gaskets x2, oil cooler cover gasket, gaskets for the oil cooler plug and relief valve, FIPG for the half moons. Everything else that you add depends on the scope of the work you are doing and the scope of the plan.

 

[nhall80]

I had my head refreshed back in the Spring, and I did not pull the engine. That seems like it would be much more work IMO. The hardest part was removing (or maybe reinstalling) the intake. Once its out of the way, you're golden. I cut away a small section of the lower plenum in order to remove it without having to disconnect my entire wiring harness (suggestion found on MUD). It wasn't too bad. I think I had the head removed in about 6 hours.

 

[nhall80]

I'll add that I decided not to touch the rest of the engine after a solid compression check (170 - 175 psi). When I could finally inspect the cylinders, I could still see original cross hatching (290,000 miles). These things really are bulletproof!

 

[jjdeneen918]

There is a debate on reusing OEM head bolts. They are torque to yield spec. Some say reusable, some say not. You should at least have them checked for stretching.

ARP head studs are cheaper ($-wise) than new OEM bolts.

 

[nhall80]

There is a debate on reusing OEM head bolts. They are torque to yield spec. Some say reusable, some say not. You should at least have them checked for stretching.

ARP head studs are cheaper ($-wise) than new OEM bolts.

Am I wrong in suggesting that you can't use the studs if you don't pull the engine? Would you be able to get the head to set back onto the block? I would imagine the rear studs would be too tall to allow the head to got over them due to firewall. I could be wrong. I went with OEM bolts from ToyotaPartsDeal.com ($233).

 

[bwakeling]

I am sticking with the OEM head gasket so have ordered head bolts from my local dealer.

 

[ajax1]

I’ve done a few 1fzfe heads reused the bolts prob 95 percent of the time. Fsm has you measure for stretch and re use, if in range. Oil the threads and make sure to do the torque pattern in the fsm. I also use hylomar blue on the block before placing the gasket

 

[jjdeneen918]

Am I wrong in suggesting that you can't use the studs if you don't pull the engine? Would you be able to get the head to set back onto the block? I would imagine the rear studs would be too tall to allow the head to got over them due to firewall. I could be wrong. I went with OEM bolts from ToyotaPartsDeal.com ($233).

You can pull the head without removing the block.
Then reverse to install. There is room.

 

[nhall80]

You can pull the head without removing the block.
Then reverse to install. There is room.

You can pull the head without removing the block.
Then reverse to install. There is room.

I just meant installing the head with the engine in place using studs instead of bolts.

 

[Red Merle]

Do a full cleaning bath, pressure test, deck job, valve seal and full valve job if you are taking this to a competent machine shop. Bring the FSM pages for the job. My guys said they cross referenced it several times while adjusting the lash.

The whole thing was only $604 and they even painted the head for me. To cut any corners would have only saved me $100, at most. This is a job you only want to do once and forget about it as you ride off into the sunset for the next 25 years.

 

[jaymar]

Do a full cleaning bath, pressure test, deck job, valve seal and full valve job if you are taking this to a competent machine shop. Bring the FSM pages for the job. My guys said they cross referenced it several times while adjusting the lash.

The whole thing was only $604 and they even painted the head for me. To cut any corners would have only saved me $100, at most. This is a job you only want to do once and forget about it as you ride off into the sunset for the next 25 years.

So, my Cruiser Sensei says $2500 for a top quality head rebuild. I assume this is not a rebuild?

 

[Red Merle]

So, my Cruiser Sensei says $2500 for a top quality head rebuild. I assume this is not a rebuild?

What else would be included? This price was for me to pull the head and deliver it to the machine shop and then re-install it once the machine shop work was complete. I would have to look at my receipts to say exactly how much I spent on parts for the whole job but I think it was around $3000, which included a bunch of stuff that I did as PM.

 

[nhall80]

What else would be included? This price was for me to pull the head and deliver it to the machine shop and then re-install it once the machine shop work was complete. I would have to look at my receipts to say exactly how much I spent on parts for the whole job but I think it was around $3000, which included a bunch of stuff that I did as PM.

Ditto on this. I did the work myself and paid the head shop about $600 for what I think was a very high quality head job. I only ended up spending about $1200 in total. I did some PM while in there (i.e. PHH, fuel filter, etc...) but otherwise it was a pretty straightforward job.