CW 2.0 (2 Viewers)

[seapotato]

Yeah I probably will.

Back a bit centers it on the perch again. I redrilled the perches so I had some flexibility. A lot of wild guesses and 2am math to get it remotely close.

Not today tho. I get to wear the white helmet and oversee some poor bastard replacing his tdi jetta alternator .

I hope i have enough beer...

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

It'll be easier to turn into the beer store parking stalls if you move it back an inch.

 

[seapotato]

It'll be easier to turn into the beer store parking stalls if you move it back an inch.

You raise an excellent point .


Because you know that'll be it's maiden voyage. Some traditions can't be messed with .

 

[cruisedeisel]

I have always like the stock wheel base look on the Fj45's. Hey kid, go get me the frame stretcher from the tool shed. I vote on a longer wheel base. Did I miss something or did you use a drill bit to do that milling on your U-bolt flip bottom plates? I like your MAD style getting stuff done. Your ingenuity cannot be matched.

 

[seapotato]

Garsh son, you'll make me blush...

Years at a boatyard that dealt with old wooden boats. Makes you adaptable i guess. Had to make just about everything there from scratch. (usually with s*** tools)

For the plates, you clamp them together and drill down edgewise. Makes a clean half a hole on each side. Goes easier with a 1/8" spacer in between.


As for wheelbase, 63" chevy springs and a foot tacked on the back would do it, but I'm sticking with this for now...it's only going to be a couple inches shorter wb than a 45. Considerably shorter bed tho...

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

I have always like the stock wheel base look on the Fj45's. Hey kid, go get me the frame stretcher from the tool shed. I vote on a longer wheel base. Did I miss something or did you use a drill bit to do that milling on your U-bolt flip bottom plates? I like your MAD style getting stuff done. Your ingenuity cannot be matched.

I've only seen one bad ass mofo bolt a tube bender to a tree stump though!

 

[seapotato]

Decided to fumigate the shop...

Old lump sounds ok. Was a bit concerned because some water got in the intake ( wasn't in there for too long), but I put some oil down the holes and let it sit. Then blew it back out again with the starter.

It's first sip after a dry spell...

 

[Rigpig]

Decided to fumigate the shop...


View attachment 1868620

Old lump sounds ok. Was a bit concerned because some water got in the intake ( wasn't in there for too long), but I put some oil down the holes and let it sit. Then blew it back out again with the starter.

It's first sip after a dry spell...View attachment 1868625

Looking good! Like most of my cloudy days, imagine two V16 60 litre Cummins firing up on a cold day...

 

[seapotato]

Looking good! Like most of my cloudy days, imagine two V16 60 litre Cummins firing up on a cold day...

I can almost smell it...but that might be the diesel fumes that are still in my lungs after yesterday.

 

[seapotato]

And now, another episode of "As the turd extrudes"

I've been pondering how to build the steering column, to go from 40 column to 60 box. I've seen some people just put the whole 60 column in tilt and all, but I kinda like the way the original looks, and wasn't interested in scouring the planet for a 55 column, which is the common method.



So poking around in my box of too much junk, I found that the 60 tube is very slightly larger than the 40, tho not quite large enough to slip over, except for right at the bottom where they flared it slghtly to make it a tight fit into that bell end fitting. Still wouldn't slip over there but it was very close.

So, I lopped it off a little back of that, and flared it a wee bit more with my sophisticated flaring tool...

then the 40 column pressed in tightly. Ï'll weld it once I'm sure I have everything the right length.

Before pressing in would be a good time to remember to put the 4bolt flange on, as it won't fit on later.

Then it was time for some sunday afternoon savage abuse of a s***ty wood lathe...

This set up is every bit as haywire as it looks, but it did the job, and took literally 5 minutes to put together. If I was doing this kinda thing more often, I'd have a better lathe or a mill anyways. The little bit of square tube with the set screws helped to hold the shaft and keep the two flats parallel to each other.

Which gave me a nice double D, ( and who doesn't like a nice double D??)

And the whole shebang back together.

I also had to cut a considerably larger hole in the firewall bracket for the 60 series end, but it ends up being just inside the 4 mounting holes, so it works out pretty well. I still have a decent amount of flexibility with length, between the two slip joints and the column itself, but it's pretty damn close.

Tomorrow I'll bump the axle back to where it wants to be, and then I'll be able to pin down the exact location of the steering box, and then that loose little 4 bolt flange can get welded to the column tube and Roberts your father's brother.

Technically should've done the whole, move axle, locate steering box thing first, but this was way more fun.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Awesome, I'm sure the drill press was laughing at the wood lathe..... "Your turn beatch".

Parts interchangeability. Have you seen Project Binky? Some Britts stuff a Celica Alltrack drivetrain into a bloody Mini 1000 and find an IS300 Toyota driveshaft bolts right in. Nuts.

I'm amazed you have power, we had a wind storm again last night that toppled trees all over the place.

Back on track... Looking good. Its about time this forum had a good build thread and CW 1.0 was before my time.

 

[Gsb15]

Looks good, I can appreciate a build that has minimal out sourcing of parts.

Really all that recycling should have a tax credit

 

[seapotato]

Awesome, I'm sure the drill press was laughing at the wood lathe..... "Your turn beatch".

Parts interchangeability. Have you seen Project Binky? Some Britts stuff a Celica Alltrack drivetrain into a bloody Mini 1000 and find an IS300 Toyota driveshaft bolts right in. Nuts.

I'm amazed you have power, we had a wind storm again last night that toppled trees all over the place.

Back on track... Looking good. Its about time this forum had a good build thread and CW 1.0 was before my time.

Hardly a puff here. Our neighbours didn't have power for a full week, on the last go round.

they were pissed we got ours back on Saturday and they were out all thru Xmas till Thursday

And yes. I could feel the drill press gloating behind me

Looks good, I can appreciate a build that has minimal out sourcing of parts.

Really all that recycling should have a tax credit

Capital idea young man. I think you should suggest it to mother icbc.


I'm not sure if my goal is to build a truck or just connect all that s*** in my shed together into something that's easier to move.

 

[seapotato]

Small amount of monkeyfuckery today.

Moved the axle back, and literally watched the main leaf crack for no apparent reason. (Other than being old and worn out...)

I didn't have a key for the ignition cylinder, so I rekeyed it to the 61's key, because it was already really close.

Not exactly high security but it's a Toyota, so chances are, there's another one in the same parking lot with a key that'll work anyways.

Rooted around for my old ign switch that had the glow function. Interestingly, the key cylinder works fine, the function with the spring for turning backwards for glow is in the electric part. The key doesn't say glow but it goes there. Just swapped the connector over and left the glow wire out.

Column in temporarily, I need a tierod end to make sure everything clears before I zap anything together, or mount the box.

It'd be nice if that bottom section of shaft was an inch or two longer, it would get the other universal closer to the firewall, but it shouldn't make much difference as far as function goes. It'd just look a bit better.

Another reason to hold off welding and ruminate some...

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

To be fair...letter kenny....littlebit of confuckery...

 

[seapotato]

To be fair...letter kenny....littlebit of confuckery...

Anyways, I think what I'm going to do is shove the column in towards the firewall, to where it looks right, throw a tack weld on it and then either chase down or make a longer lower shaft.

I've been watching a lot of the "old steam powered machine shop" channel on yt. It's pretty fascinating, he's like the bob ross of machinists, working with tools that are entirely pre 1925.
Overhead belts flapping and a steam engine chugging in the background the whole time. Pretty freaking cool.
In one vid he used a horizontal mill and a dividing head to cut gears, and I have neither of those things, but the theory should transfer to other methods.

Or I could chase down a 70 series lower shaft or even later 60's were a bit longer....or apparently a 70's corolla drive shaft uses the same unis...

 

[Gsb15]

View attachment 1873579


Or I could chase down a 70 series lower shaft

If you don’t feel like chasing to hard... I have 2

 

[seapotato]

If you don’t feel like chasing to hard... I have 2

I never feel like chasing too hard.

Mind waving a tape measure at it? This is the stock pre 85 60 series .

About 18". I could use another few inches .

I have two of these so i might waste one. I have a heavy wall bit of tubing I could press /weld the ends into to stretch it.

 

[stevebradford]

About 18". I could use another few inches.

Good god man, my shaft wasn’t enough! how long do you need it!?

 

[seapotato]

Haha , didn't actually use yours, mine was already cut so I used it as the experiment, and then the experiment worked ...

this is just the firewall to steering box portion