CV Reboott parts and tools needed

[tsarte]

I'll be changing the CV boots on both sides and have searched and read most if threads on it. Please let me know if I need anything else.

Parts list:

• OEM CV boot kit Part# 04427-60120
• 3/16” smooth band worm-drive hose clamps found here: McMaster-Carr
  part #5574K25 4” to 4-3/4” and part #5574K16 1” to 1-5/8”
• dust boot cap
• outer axle snap ring - reusable
• Any more snap rings - resusable
• Red Line CV-2 Synthetic Grease

Tools required:

• FSM
• 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm ratchets
• torque wrench
• pitman arm puller and correct wrench
• a few flat head screw drivers
• lots of towels, latex glove are great too
• jack, jack stands
• snap ring pliers

Lessons learned from others:

• don't need to take apart hub
• raise the side worked on higher than the other to prevent loss of some front diff oil

Questions:

• I plan on using Red Line CV-2 Synthetic Grease instead of the stock grease. Any comments or experience with this on a hundy?
• Does the steering knuckle need to be removed from lower suspension arm?
• It looks like the steering knuckle need to be removed from ONLY on the upper arm???????????

thanks in advance guys. i would like to give credit to all those threads i read but too numerous to list but SUMMITCRUISER is on the top of the list with his write-up

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Why are you replacing the snap ring on the axle stub? It's a reusable part. Also why not use the bands and grease that come in the kit?

The knuckle comes off the lower arm and lower shock mount and swings up out of the way. Only other thing I might consider in your list is a couple of star washers for the hub. They're reusable too, but if you get frisky you might bend/break an ear off. You'll also need a 54mm hub socket.

 

[spressomon]

Why are you replacing the snap ring on the axle stub? It's a reusable part. Also why not use the bands and grease that come in the kit?

The knuckle comes off the lower arm and lower shock mount and swings up out of the way. Only other thing I might consider in your list is a couple of star washers for the hub. They're reusable too, but if you get frisky you might bend/break an ear off. You'll also need a 54mm hub socket.

No need to disassemble the hub therefore no 54mm socket needed (unless, of course, one is going to overhaul the wheel bearings too). Also its easier to just unbolt the bracket holding the tie-rod than to mess with freeing the tapered tie rod itself...

The OEM bands, at least from my experiences, can't quite be tightened enough to insure leak free performance...this issue certainly is more pronounced with a lifted rig. However the new part # for the boot kit may (or may not) include different bands. Toyota did change the bands from my first boot kit (part #?) compared to subsequent boot kits; and they worked better. Curious what they changed this time to warrant a new part #.

Although I have not experimented with this idea yet there are a few folks in the racing arena that suggest using less CV lube on a lifted rig and/or one where the CV angle is more acute than OEM angles. Their reasoning: Less internal boot volume on the lifted rig's CV boot. It can be argued, even with a diff drop, at ~2.75" of lift height on our 100's results in a fairly distorted CV/CV boot angle.


Some have been able to wiggle the CV shaft from the knuckle assembly/hub without removing the lower ball joint connection to the steering knuckle. I just found it faster overall to pop the lower joint and get the knuckle out of the way. You may already know this trick: Once you get the puller tightened down on the taper give the bolt portion of the puller a few solid whacks with a heavy hammer...typically they just pop free!

 

[agaisin]

If you use the OEM CV Clamps, do you need to use the SST as well or is there a compatible cv clamp tool out there?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

For Lord knows what reason yesterday (must have been wanting to get out of work) I had it in my head that the hub nuts threaded onto the axle stub. Duh.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

No need to disassemble the hub therefore no 54mm socket needed (unless, of course, one is going to overhaul the wheel bearings too). Also its easier to just unbolt the bracket holding the tie-rod than to mess with freeing the tapered tie rod itself...

<SNIP>!

Great time saving idea but dont forget to remove the snap ring on the end of the axle, but you probably already knew that.

 

[spressomon]

Great time saving idea but dont forget to remove the snap ring on the end of the axle, but you probably already knew that.

Yep...the snap ring has to come off. I forgot to repsond to the OP about the snap rings: You won't need different thickness/new snap rings** unless you damage one/them removing them. If you install a completely new/different CV shaft assembly and/or new hub drive flange you may need different thickness snap ring.

**The FSM shows the snap rings and the dust cap as parts that should be replaced apart of this job (with the proper snap ring pliers for this type of snap ring I typically get mine off and on again without stretching/damaging the ring...but just so you know). The snap rings, as you probably already are aware, come in different thicknesses. I generally replace the dust caps with new as they're not very expensive and I usually booger them up getting them pried off...

 

[Trunk Monkey]

with the proper snap ring pliers

LOL. For a couple of years I tried to use some Harbor Freight pliers that had 4 interchangeable tips and were spring loaded. 99% of the time they would fall apart trying to get the snap ring off or slip off the ends of the ring. As getting that ring off was about the first and last steps in the job, there was nothing better than starting and ending with a string of profanity.

I finally invested the whopping $14 at Sears in some real snap ring pliers. That one tool almost made doing knuckle jobs a pleasure.

 

[tsarte]

**The FSM shows the snap rings and the dust cap as parts that should be replaced apart of this job (with the proper snap ring pliers for this type of snap ring I typically get mine off and on again without stretching/damaging the ring...but just so you know). The snap rings, as you probably already are aware, come in different thicknesses. I generally replace the dust caps with new as they're not very expensive and I usually booger them up getting them pried off...

I added snap ring pliers to the tools list and dust cap for the parts list.

Do you guys know the part number for the dust cap?

 

[agaisin]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the procedure so please bear with me. The FSM calls for removing the inboard dust cover and the outboard dust seal. In both cases, it takes a shop press and a special service tool to press them back in. I don't see anyone talking about using a press for this job. Is it necessary to remove/replace the dust cover and seal, and if so, does it really require a press?

While I'm asking about presses, what about the front hub bearings, is a press needed there as well?

 

[agaisin]

What's the consensus on inboard tulip's dust cover and outboard shaft's dust seal? FSM says to replace them. I don't see anyone talking about the dust seal. Do you guys replace both? And do you guys use a press as described in the FSM or is there another way to replace them?

 

[tsarte]

**The FSM shows the snap rings and the dust cap as parts that should be replaced apart of this job (with the proper snap ring pliers for this type of snap ring I typically get mine off and on again without stretching/damaging the ring...but just so you know). The snap rings, as you probably already are aware, come in different thicknesses. I generally replace the dust caps with new as they're not very expensive and I usually booger them up getting them pried off...

Hi Spresso

What are the proper snap ring pliers for this job? I checked Sears and they have a lot of different kinds.

Also how do you press in the new dust cap?

I will ordering the parts and tools this week so hope to get one side done this weekend.

I finally invested the whopping $14 at Sears in some real snap ring pliers. That one tool almost made doing knuckle jobs a pleasure.

Hi TM

Which Sears snap ring pliers did you get? I saw Sears has a lot of different kinds.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands

 

[Yukon LX]

I picked up my LX today form the dealership and it had the two upper boots replaced. $740. Wish i weren't leaving town today and had some time to do it myself.

 

[tsarte]

Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands

Thanks!

 

[spressomon]

Hi Spresso

What are the proper snap ring pliers for this job? I checked Sears and they have a lot of different kinds.

Also how do you press in the new dust cap?

I will ordering the parts and tools this week so hope to get one side done this weekend.



Hi TM

Which Sears snap ring pliers did you get? I saw Sears has a lot of different kinds.

Sorry...I've been in remoteville for the past week+. I just use a leather mallet but any soft plastic type would work fine...the trick is to tap around the outer edge where its more rigid/stronger and gradually tapping the dust cap home. Otherwise if you smack the dust cap in the middle you're more likely to dimple/flatten it.

These are the type of snap ring pliers I have and like best for the axle snap rings: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/116630-100-lx-brakes-3.html#post1552972
You can get them at Sears or Snap On.

 

[agaisin]

Obvious but worth mentioning - you'll need new cotter pins for the upper control arm (and lower if you choose to remove that as well).

Also, I didn't replace the inboard dust cap or outboard dust seal, therefore no need for presses.

 

[tsarte]

Help I cannot insert the driver side axle all the way in to the diff !!!! I can't lock-in the inboard axle back into the diff!!! I tried muscling it in but it will not go back into the differential all the way and lock in.

Did you guys have to tap the inboard tulip pretty hard with a 2x4 for it to lock in? Did you guys tap it on the same lip that has to be also to pull it out?


HEEELLLLLP!!

 

[spressomon]

I never had to pound it home with a hammer. Make sure the open side of the circlip, on the end of the inner CV shaft, is facing down when you insert the shaft into the diff. Sometimes I need to wiggle the CV as I'm inserting into the diff...but it will go eventually. You should rub a film of diff lube on the inner splined shaft too so you're not inserting it dry...

 

[tsarte]

Thanks Spresso! I actually had the truck all buttoned up and ready to get towed. I went underneath the truck again and used a short 5" 2x4 and whacked it in place. It look good now. I also remembered that I had the circlip opening facing down but that did not seem to help.

Thanks a lot guys for the fast response. BTW I had to use about 4 cans of brake cleaner to clean the outboard tulip. The grease on the inboard tulip was in bad shape and very runny.

I managed to take some photos. Let me know if you want it posted.