CV re-boots and diff seals, after effects (1 Viewer)

[2manycruisers]

I rebooted both of my CVs and replaced the diff seals while I was there. When I replaced the driver (left) side differential oil seal, the new one (OEM Toyota) was not a very tight fit. I could get it at least 75% of the way in by hand. I decided to go with it and now I have a slight leak. There are 2 drops of oil on my garage floor in 2 weeks. When I go back and re-do this, what can I do to make the seal tight and not leak?

Second, I have a squeak/creak somewhere in the suspension and I'm not sure how to isolate it. It's possible it's the right lower ball joint. I removed the knuckles completely when I did the CVs and not sure if reassembly could have caused it. Honestly it could have been making the noise before. The Lexus is so well insulated I can't hear it at all with the windows up. Now that it's warming up outside, I've had windows down some and it's quite loud. It makes noise just turning the steering wheel while not moving, as well as any suspension movement from bumps etc. I can push down on the bumper or lay underneath and push up on the LX and it makes the noise. The ball joint boot is intact and there is no sign of grease loss. When I laid underneath, I am pretty sure the sound was close to the knuckle, not at the lower a-arm bushings. If it is something rubber, should I try a cleaner or lubricant of some type to see if it goes away? Any similar experience or advice is appreciated.

 

[abuck99]

The diff seals are finicky and will leak if pressed in too far, not far enough or misaligned- it’s definitely a narrow margin of error kind of install. Many thread on posts on the forum regarding installing to the right depth. Study the pictures to get the right depth- @2001LC has some good tutorials.

The thing that sucks now for you is that it’s all got to come apart to re-do the seal(s). You don’t want a leak- even a few drops- as that can turn into more of a leak, empty diff and possibly grenaded diff. A $15 seal not attended to could cost you a $1500 diff. The next decision you might consider is to reuse the seal- it’s not worth saving it and better to replace it again- follow the thread post on depth to set the seal.

Get the depth set right-carefully install the axle and you should be good to go.

The noise- might be sway bar mount bushings- try spraying some silicone spray on them and see if that was your squeak-

 

[nissanh]

The reason why the first part of the seal is easy to press in is to make the final push to be symmetrical all around. The old seals are notorious to line up so I really like the newer design. Did you tap the outer edge of the oil seal or did you tap the flat surface of the oil seal which we all tempted to do? taping this flat surface can deform the inner oil lip (the OEM seals are harden steel while A/M are just metal and could deform easily).

Did you install the axle all the way in? any picture of the leaky area?

 

[2manycruisers]

Thanks for the responses.
The seal is not installed too deep, I'm certain of that. The passenger side was not easy to press in like the driver side was. I tapped the outer edge the best I could. I used the female end of a socket extension so I could angle it and try to keep it near the edge. It didn't take much to tap it in that last bit, so I don't think I deformed it any. If that was going to happen it would definitely be the passenger side. The axle is all the way in, I did confirm that. There's nothing to see of the leaky area except that there is a bit of oil on the bottom of the axletube right below the seal. (You can't see up between the CV stub and the seal area).