CV boot replacement costs

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wareagle

wareagle

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Threads
53
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773
Location
Mark - Knoxville, TN
Guys, I waited too long to add the diff drop. As a result, my boots are torn near clamps. I don't have a lot of time to replace. What's a decent price to pay? Local dealer quoted $1200 for tranny fluid swap, bearing repack plus CV reboot. $600 was the reboot.
 
How many miles on the current cv's? at that price you can almost buy a set of new OEM CV axles. I've replaced mine about every 100000 miles. Keep and old one as spare and pass on the other to another cruiserhead.
 
Yeah, I thought same. The current ones have about 135k miles.
 
Had mine done back in August by a reputable independent shop for approx $580 at 122K miles. Seems like about the going rate.

The trans fluid swap is easy if you follow OregonLC's instructions.
 
At that milage, rebooting seem like a waste if you are paying labor.
Looked through some invoices. Best I can tell, last time I paid $375 per OEM axle and $255 labor. Just talking axles, not T-fluid.
 
Boot kit is $28. Clamps from pFran are another $12 (?). Couple of beers $6. Spending the afternoon with your Cruiser: Priceless.
 
wareagle said:
Guys, I waited too long to add the diff drop. As a result, my boots are torn near clamps. I don't have a lot of time to replace. What's a decent price to pay? Local dealer quoted $1200 for tranny fluid swap, bearing repack plus CV reboot. $600 was the reboot.
Click to expand...

Why the tranny fluid swap? I'd just do the 4qt drop &swap a few times until you thought it looked clean, then 4 quarts every oil change.
 
pathfinder11 said:
600 is about right i think, cv axelshaft @ $130 x 2, plus 3.5-4 hrs labor
Click to expand...

i believe he was saying $600 for the reboot alone which is nominal parts and mostly labor. OEM axles will run more like ~350 each and then ~2.5 hrs labor on top. As many point out in other threads on mud, don't cheap out on axles - anything less than OEM has ended up in vibration or premature failure for many so consensus has been stay OEM.

If you're paying for labor then the math can make sense to get new axles at ~$1k instead of rebooting for a whopping $600. The labor to reboot is significantly more than to swap out for new axles...
 
OregonLC said:
Boot kit is $28. Clamps from pFran are another $12 (?). Couple of beers $6. Spending the afternoon with your Cruiser: Priceless.
Click to expand...

^^^This. A wise man once said working on your truck only strengthens the bond...or makes you throw whatever tool is in your hand through the wall.
 
nakman said:
Why the tranny fluid swap? I'd just do the 4qt drop &swap a few times until you thought it looked clean, then 4 quarts every oil change.
Click to expand...

I guess I am one of the few that likes the flush and fill.
 
OregonLC said:
Boot kit is $28. Clamps from pFran are another $12 (?). Couple of beers $6. Spending the afternoon with your Cruiser: Priceless.
Click to expand...
I know. I rarely pay for labor. Over the last 10 years, I think I have paid for one brake job on my wife's minivan and atbelt/waterpump on the land cruiser.

I just hate breaking loose cone washers and ball joints. Never goes well for me. :mad:
 
agaisin said:
i believe he was saying $600 for the reboot alone which is nominal parts and mostly labor. OEM axles will run more like ~350 each and then ~2.5 hrs labor on top. As many point out in other threads on mud, don't cheap out on axles - anything less than OEM has ended up in vibration or premature failure for many so consensus has been stay OEM.

If you're paying for labor then the math can make sense to get new axles at ~$1k instead of rebooting for a whopping $600. The labor to reboot is significantly more than to swap out for new axles...
Click to expand...

My shop replaced the CV axles also for the $580. I usually go OEM 99% of the time. Didn't think about asking for the CV axles as I've been very happy with the work this shop has done for me over the past nine years and didn't think about questioning them. Only had one defective part ( a heater fan motor) and they warrantied that w/o hesitation. That said if I used it in extreme environments such as other Mud'rs I would go definitely go OEM on the axles. You do get a solid piece of mind from OEM.
 
My daughters 4 runner had a CV axle that the boot ripped open, so we bought a CV axle at carquest as were in Moab wheeling. Axle broke the next day. We greased and did a temp boot fix on the old OEM one and put it back on. Replaced it when we got home and turned the old OEM one into a spare.

I bought a new CV axle as a spare when I bought the 100. I also bought a reboot kit which is cheap. When it comes time to replace, I will reboot the old one and make it a spare.

edit: fixed typos
 
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wareagle said:
I know. I rarely pay for labor. Over the last 10 years, I think I have paid for one brake job on my wife's minivan and atbelt/waterpump on the land cruiser.

I just hate breaking loose cone washers and ball joints. Never goes well for me. :mad:
Click to expand...

I thought we were talking about CV's? No cone washers or ball joints! The steering knuckle just slides off the UCA spindle. The only tricky part is getting inner ring to pop into the diff without damaging the boot. It's a messy job but not complicated or overly technical. Just make sure to get the clamps from pFran and it will make the back-together part much happier.
 
Romer said:
My daughters 4 runner had a CV axle that the bott ripped open, so we bought a VC axle at carquest as were in Moab wheeling. Axle broke the next day.
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^ Needs to be a sticky! :) I haven't heard of a single replacement brand that has lasted longer than a year. Understand that in Ken's case he didn't have a whole lot of options being out of town.
 
OregonLC said:
I thought we were talking about CV's? No cone washers or ball joints! The steering knuckle just slides off the UCA spindle. The only tricky part is getting inner ring to pop into the diff without damaging the boot. It's a messy job but not complicated or overly technical. Just make sure to get the clamps from pFran and it will make the back-together part much happier.
Click to expand...

Cone washers are for the shell bearing repack. I was referring To spindle, but I never have good luck with things sliding or popping off.
 
What do you think? I have 140k miles on my 99 and need the cv axles rebooted. I got a quote for $440 for both sides to reboot...But, after a little research, I am thinking I should get the axles done rather than rebooting...
Thoughts?
 
Get a new Toyota OEM CV and boot kit so you will have a spare, no more worries.
 
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