CV Axle won't seat all the way....what's the trick guys?

[flintknapper]

Trying to install a new CV axle. Can't get it to 'seat' all the way.

The shaft measures the same as the original and the spline count is correct.

I've hit it pretty darn good with a 3lb. hammer (used a piece of 2x4 on the end to protect the outer shaft) but it hasn't budged.

Kind of acts like the retaining ring on the end of the inner shaft is not compressing and allowing the axle to seat?

Any tricks....or do I just need to wail on it with a sledge? Seems like it would be easier than this.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Last I did one I had to slide it forward (like a slide hammer) into the diff with decent momentum to get the clip to pop in place.

 

[white_lx]

So you felt the splines engage, but it does not want to go any further? Pack grease around the steel ring so it sits centered on the shaft with the opening down. If the ring hangs down, it will probably get caught on the internal bevel.

I use a brass bar and hammer to drive it home.

 

[jahawk]

Make sure the clip is on the top so it falls down in to the grove on the axle. If the clip is at the bottom it won't want to go in.

Jim

 

[gregnash]

I ended up having to give one of mine a good few whacks with a 5lb dead blow to get it to seat finally. You can try just shoving it with your own body force when the axle is straight too.
But biggest thing is ensuring that the splines are engaged.

 

[FxFormat]

I had problem seating it too so i ended up removing the entire knuckle and got it lined up straight and gave it a good shove and pop, goes right in. Also helps to have the retaining ring centered on it, use some grease to keep it from flopping around.

 

[flintknapper]

I removed the retaining clip and it slipped into the bore no trouble. Reinstalled the clip....tried about 10 times making sure it was oriented correctly, but no go. Took the original clip off the old CV axle and placed it on the new one. It went right in first try.

So...I am finishing up the passenger side now, then will start on the drivers side.

Thanks for the tips and support.

 

[flintknapper]

I had problem seating it too so i ended up removing the entire knuckle and got it lined up straight and gave it a good shove and pop, goes right in. Also helps to have the retaining ring centered on it, use some grease to keep it from flopping around.

Knuckle was already off on mine...so had plenty of room to move the CV around. I had marked the axle and housing so I could align the two when inserting the axle shaft. Had already placed a generous amount of a tacky assembly lube on the retaining ring to keep it in one place. Don't know what the trouble was with the new ring....but the CV seated first try with the old retaining ring.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah seems like there is always one that tends to give more issue than the other. Mine was passenger side.

 

[flintknapper]

Yeah seems like there is always one that tends to give more issue than the other. Mine was passenger side.

^^^^
Same here. I swapped out the retaining ring on the CV Axle for the Drivers side as well, just to help avoid any problem. It went right in no issues at all.

I can't see any real difference between the old rings and new ones except for an ever so slightly larger opening at the bottom.

Perhaps the spring 'rate' is different. The new ones did feel a bit harder to remove. IDK....or really care at this point. Got them both in.

 

[100d ua]

I dreaded re-installing axles because of this but once you do it a few times its cake walk.

Like others have said, using some grease make sure the snap ring opening is face down. Because of what I had available, I use(d) a pry par with the pry end wedged up against the base valley of the CV (the area circled in red in the OP). Give the other end (curved end) of the pry bar a few taps with a hammer from the top and bottom and it should start going in.

 

[Octous]

I’ve had this problem and ended up filing a ramp on the clip ring to allow it to find the groove in the diff easier.

Worked like a charm and since it is on the onboard side of the clip the clip still retains the axle as intended.

 

[flintknapper]

I’ve had this problem and ended up filing a ramp on the clip ring to allow it to find the groove in the diff easier.

Worked like a charm and since it is on the onboard side of the clip the clip still retains the axle as intended.

^^^^

This sounds like a very smart solution.

The other suggestions (grease all contact surfaces, make sure clip is facing down, etc) I had already done and seemingly made NO difference. I can't explain why using the old clips worked....but it did.

Also, I'd like to know the reason for facing the clip opening down....I see no apparent 'mating' reason for it?

 

[badlander]

Set your purse down and use both hands, LoL!
Shove it in HARD, with all of your weight behind it, like your life depends on it, hard like you are going to knock the truck off the jack stand, and it will pop in. No clip mods or hammers needed.

 

[gatormark91]

Just did this last night, actually. Inner end would NOT go in on passenger side.

Solution - Make sure the the side of the truck you are working on is supported by a solid jack stand, and put another under there as backup (Getting squished would be bad). Take your jack, and jack up the control arm until just before the truck starts to move. Then the inner axle end should go in without much trouble. The problem I believe is the stiction from the hub end pulling down on the axle (2.5" lift on mine w/TD TBs) makes it hard to get the clip to pop in and seat. Every time I line a troublesome one up, it goes in fine. Also +1 on greasing the clip channel and making sure the opening points down)

I don't break the lower ball joint when I do this, never have needed to.

 

[flintknapper]

Set your purse down and use both hands, LoL!
Shove it in HARD, with all of your weight behind it, like your life depends on it, hard like you are going to knock the truck off the jack stand, and it will pop in. No clip mods or hammers needed.

Yeah, well.....I can assure you I tried that.

I'm 6'-5" and 250 lbs. and still plenty strong, it was NOT going in there. I also tried a 3lb. hammer and whacked the hell out of it....then even gave it a couple of hits with a 6lb. sledge.

What you describe (even less) worked fine once I swapped out the new clips for the original (used clips), but the axles were NOT going to go in with what came on them, short of literally knocking the truck off the stands. If YOU would like to demonstrate your technique....I am happy to pull an axle....put the original clip back on it and let you show us how a real man does it.

 

[flintknapper]

Just did this last night, actually. Inner end would NOT go in on passenger side.

Solution - Make sure the the side of the truck you are working on is supported by a solid jack stand, and put another under there as backup (Getting squished would be bad). Take your jack, and jack up the control arm until just before the truck starts to move. Then the inner axle end should go in without much trouble. The problem I believe is the stiction from the hub end pulling down on the axle makes it hard to get the clip to pop in and seat. Every time I line a troublesome one up, it goes in fine.

I don't break the lower ball joint when I do this, never have needed to.

I had nothing in the way of mine. Had the axle supported with a piece of wood resting on the lower control arm...so the axle had a straight shot at going in. Good advice....just didn't apply in this case.

 

[gatormark91]

I had nothing in the way of mine. Had the axle supported with a piece of wood resting on the lower control arm...so the axle had a straight shot at going in. Good advice....just didn't apply in this case.

Sorry, that sucks.... Some of those new clips are brutally tight.

 

[AimCOtaco]

I like to get this done with new clips for best retention and less likelihood of a leak but have run used clips in the past for sure.
I have found that if you try whacking it in when it's not oriented right it can get some flat spots on it making it even harder to get in correctly.
I think using grease to hold the orientation and some practice usually leads to good success when installing new.

 

[gatormark91]

Also - big brass drift is the best tool for banging it in. If you try a pine 2x4, you'll just get a nice pile of wood chips.